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Grande Grotta

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Access issues inherited from Armeos

When you pass a gate on your approach close it behind you! Also try to stay on the established approach paths.

Approach

Depending on where you stay, you can easily walk to Grand Grotta. Otherwise park your scooter or bike opposite to "Philoxenia Hotel" [37.0041, 26.9407] and follow the steep ramp uphill to a fence gate – Make sure it is closed after you went through. 15 minutes of scrambling from there.

Ethic inherited from Kalymnos

  • PREPARE to leave nothing behind (trashbag, etc).
  • Use your own gear for toproping. Use fixed gear only for lowering. (See first section of guidebook for details.)
  • Minimize single-use plastic. No recycling on the island (yet).
  • Use established paths and close gates behind you.
  • Consider a donation to the rescue team (red boxes).

Routes

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Grade Route

Routes starting on the left wall, outside the cave.

1 6b 25m
2 5c 25m
3 5c 25m
4 5c 25m

Set: Olivier Didon, Guy Abert, Lionel Catsoyannis & Paola Pezzini, 2001

FFA: Alex Honnold, 2011

Set: Simon Montmory, 2011

An often photographed route because of its position on the edge of the Grande Grotta. Pumpy climbing with few rests.

Set: George Kopalides & Yiannis Torelli, 1998

Extension to 'Aegialis'.

Set: George Kopalides & Christos Daniil, 2007

Another 10m extension to 'Aegialis' and 'Kopalization'.

Set: George Kopalides, 2014

Set: Marco Troussier, 2002

Short, with a bouldery sequence on pinches.

Set: Fritz Amann & Hermann Erber, 2001

The island's most popular, steep tufa climb. A good introduction to the style. In peak season, come early for a quick onsight or join the crowd until the sun hits.

Set: Thomas Michaelides & Aris Theodoropoulos, 2001

Maint: 2016

Set: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin & Antonin Cherbonnier, 2004

Maint: 2014

Direct variation of Ivi. Clip first three bolts of Ivi, then straight up (rather than right) past a hard setup and a dyno to the hueco.

Set: George Kopalides, 2014

A step upwards from DNA but at least as good! One reachy move makes it harder for the short.

Set: 2002

A super steep and very long, typical Kalymnos-style climb. Big holds, good rests but also some technical and bouldery parts. [70m rope ok if tied off.]

Some argue it's hard to grade because a successful ascent can take anywhere from 10 to 60+ minutes. Grade consensus is in the 7b+ to 7c range.

The route is named after the greek god of fertility. Maybe due to the long skinny stalactite in the middle of the climb.

Video: Sasha DiGiulian climbing Priapos

Set: Yann Ghesquiers & Philippe Pellet, 2001

Extension to 'Priapos'.

Set: Yann Ghesquiers & Philippe Pellet, 2001

Going through the most horizontal part of Grande Grotta's roof. Two hard, bouldery sections.

Set: Olivier Didon, Guy Abert, Lionel Catsoyannis & Paola Pezzini, 2001

Slab and juggy tufas.

Set: Aris Theodoropoulos, 2008

Stops at the intermediate anchor after the slab.

Set: Kaspar Ochsner, Ruth Ochsner & Felix Meier, 2001

Infamous hard anchor-clip and possible rope drag problems. Otherwise great tufa climbing at around 6b+.

Set: Kaspar Ochsner, Ruth Ochsner & Felix Meier, 2001

Warning Rock: High possibility of accident in case of breaking rock.

Shares the start with Trela and Tufantastic, then braches off left into the steep overhang.

Set: Christos Daniil & Aristotelis Mavromatis, 2007

An endurance focused tufa route with a more adventurous feeling. A lot less popular than other routes here. Shares the start with the popular Trela and Punto Caramelo, then follows the middle line of bolts.

[70m rope ok if tied off.]

Set: 2007

Being less steep than the 7's to the left, Trela still requires a lot of endurance or better, some creative kneebars. Take the rightmost line of the shared start with Punto Caramelo and Tufantastic.

[Rope beta: A 70m rope is more than enough for leading and lowering (even though the guidebook says 40m). BUT be aware that stripping QDs might need more rope depending on technique.]

Set: Olivier Didon, Guy Abert, Lionel Catsoyannis & Paola Pezzini, 2001

Basically a Kalymnos unicorn: Steady, tufas-only, mid grade climbing. Very popular.

Set: Antonis Skevofylakas & Konstantinos Lampadarios, 2002

Set: Antonis Skevofylakas & Konstantinos Lampadarios, 2002

Extension to 'Taz'.

Set: George Kopalides

Set: Michel Piola, 2004

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Aris Theodoropoulos and Katie Roussou

Date: 2023

ISBN: 9788898495207

A comprehensive guidebook describing all the rock climbing, and sport climbing at Kalymnos, covering over 4,200 routes ranging from F3a to F9a.

Author(s): Chris Craggs

Date: 2018

ISBN: 9781873341384

A selective guidebook from Rockfax covering the rock climbing and sport climbing on the Aegean island of Kalymnos, describing over 2,800 routes.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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