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Access issues inherited from Armeos

When you pass a gate on your approach close it behind you! Also try to stay on the established approach paths.

Approach

Depending on where you stay, you can easily walk to Grand Grotta. Otherwise park your scooter or bike opposite to "Philoxenia Hotel" [37.0041, 26.9407] and follow the steep ramp uphill to a fence gate – Make sure it is closed after you went through. 15 minutes of scrambling from there.

Ethic inherited from Kalymnos

  • Use established paths and close gates behind you
  • Leave no trash behind
  • Use your own gear for toproping
  • Use clippable anchor gear only for stripping the quickdraws

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route

Routes starting on the left wall, outside the cave.

1 6b 25m
2 5c 25m
3 5c 25m
4 5c 25m

Set: O. Didon, G. Albert, L. Catsoyannis & P. Pezzini, 2001

FFA: Alex Honnold, 2011

Set: S. Montmory, 2011

An often photographed route because of its position on the edge of the Grande Grotta. Pumpy climbing with few rests.

Set: G. Kopalides & Y. Torelli, 1998

Set: G. Kopalides & C. Danill, 2007

Set: G. Kopalides, 2014

Set: M. Troussier, 2002

Short, with a bouldery sequence on pinches.

Set: F. Amann & H. Erber, 2001

The island's most popular, steep tufa climb. A good introduction to the style. In peak season, come early for a quick onsight or join the crowd until the sun hits.

Set: T. Michaelides & A. Theodoropoulos, 2001

Maint: 2016

Set: L. Triay, G. Fanguin & A. Cherbonnier, 2004

Maint: 2014

Direct variation of Ivi. Clip first three bolts of Ivi, then straight up (rather than right) past a hard setup and a dyno to the hueco.

Set: George Kopalides, 2014

A step upwards from DNA but at least as good! One reachy move makes it harder for the short.

Set: 2002

A super steep and very long, typical Kalymnos-style climb. Big holds, good rests but also some technical and bouldery parts. [70m rope ok if tied off.]

Some argue it's hard to grade because a successful ascent can take anywhere from 10 to 60+ minutes. Grade consensus is in the 7b+ to 7c range.

The route is named after the greek god of fertility. Maybe due to the long skinny stalactite in the middle of the climb.

Video: Sasha DiGiulian climbing Priapos

Set: Y. Ghesquiers & P. Pellet, 2001

Set: Y. Ghesquiers & P. Pellet, 2001

Going through the most horizontal part of Grande Grotta's roof. Two hard, bouldery sections.

Set: O. Didon, G. Albert, L. Catsoyannis & P. Pezzini, 2001

Slab and juggy tufas.

Set: A. Theodoropoulos, 2008

Stops at the intermediate anchor after the slab.

Set: K. Ochsner, R. Ochsner & F. Meier, 2001

Infamous hard anchor-clip and possible rope drag problems. Otherwise great tufa climbing at around 6b+.

Set: K. Ochsner, R. Ochsner & F. Meier, 2001

Warning Rock: High possibility of accident in case of breaking rock.

Shares the start with Trela and Tufantastic, then braches off left into the steep overhang.

Set: C. Danill & A. Mavromatis, 2007

An endurance focused tufa route with a more adventurous feeling. A lot less popular than other routes here. Shares the start with the popular Trela and Punto Caramelo, then follows the middle line of bolts.

[70m rope ok if tied off.]

Set: 2007

Being less steep than the 7's to the left, Trela still requires a lot of endurance or better, some creative kneebars. Take the rightmost line of the shared start with Punto Caramelo and Tufantastic.

[Rope beta: A 70m rope is more than enough for leading and lowering (even though the guidebook says 40m). BUT be aware that stripping QDs might need more rope depending on technique.]

Set: O. Didon, G. Albert, L. Catsoyannis & P. Pezzini, 2001

Basically a Kalymnos unicorn: Steady, tufas-only, mid grade climbing. Very popular.

Set: A. Skevofylakas & K. Lampadarios, 2002

Set: A. Skevofylakas & K. Lampadarios, 2002

Set: G. Kopalides

Set: M. Piola, 2004

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