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North Cape Main

Seasonality

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Description

Nice long vertical wall climbs with sharp holds on the left, easier slabby routes in the middle and a small cave with powerful route on the right. Another small slabby sector on the far right. Be aware of some loose-rock potential.

After 11 AM (face) or 1 PM (cave).

Access issues inherited from Armeos

When you pass a gate on your approach close it behind you! Also try to stay on the established approach paths.

Ethic inherited from Kalymnos

  • PREPARE to leave nothing behind (trashbag, etc).
  • Use your own gear for toproping. Use fixed gear only for lowering. (See first section of guidebook for details.)
  • Minimize single-use plastic. No recycling on the island (yet).
  • Use established paths and close gates behind you.
  • Consider a donation to the rescue team (red boxes).

History

History timeline chart

Amongst the first crags bolted on Kalymnos, starting from 1999.

Routes

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Grade Route

Routes in and around the first cave, in the corner on the left. Routes 'Mixed', 'Otti', 'Windy' and 'Corner' start on the ledge left above the cave. Access by continuing on the trail towards sub-sector 'Peter', then turn right and walk to the end of the ledge.

In the shade until 11 AM.

Set: Gunter Hommel & Joachim Friedrich, 2011

Set: Joachim Friedrich & Ute Friedrich, 2017

Set: Joachim Friedrich & Gunter Hommel, 2011

Set: Joachim Friedrich & Gunter Hommel, 2011

Set: B. Viberti, B. Ronzino & E. Viberti, 1999

Set: B. Viberti, B. Ronzino & E. Viberti, 1999

Set: B. Viberti, B. Ronzino & E. Viberti, 1999

FA: Nicolas Favresse, 2007

Set: Nicolas Favresse & Cris Daniil, 2007

Set: Mathieu Bouyoud, 2011

Set: Unknown, 2004

Set: Patrick Müller, 2011

Set: Joachim Friedrich & Gunter Hommel, 2015

The grey slabby wall between 'Inshallah Cave' and 'Helios Cave'.

In the shade until 11 AM.

Set: Unknown, 2004

Bad bolts. Do not climb!

Set: Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2011

Set: Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2011

Set: Jean-Noël Bourgeois, 2022

Set: Jean-Noël Bourgeois, 2022

Set: Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2011

Set: B. Viberti, B. Ronzino & E. Viberti, 1999

Set: Luca Salsotto, 2013

Set: B. Viberti, B. Ronzino & E. Viberti, 1999

Set: B. Viberti, B. Ronzino & E. Viberti, 1999

Set: Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2011

Set: Bruno Fara & Renée Guerin, 2016

Set: Joachim Friedrich & Gunter Hommel, 2011

Set: Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2010

Set: Falk Heinicke & Anett Riemer, 2010

FA: Mathieu Bouyoud, 2011

Set: Mathieu Bouyoud & Hugo Meignan, 2011

The upper right cave and the slabby walls left and right of it.

In the shade until 11 AM at the walls and 1 PM inside the cave.

Set: Joachim Friedrich, 2013

Set: Gunter Hommel & Joachim Friedrich, 2008

Set: Luca Salsotto, 2013

Set: Jean Noël Bourgeois & Isabelle Bourgeois, 2009

Set: Gunter Hommel & Joachim Friedrich, 2008

Set: Bruno Fara & Renée Guerin, 2017

Set: Gunter Hommel & Jochaim Friedrich, 2006

Set: Gunter Hommel & Joachim Friedrich, 2009

Set: Gunter Hommel & Joachim Friedrich, 2009

Set: Joachim Friedrich, Gunter Hommel, Fl. Friedrich & Holli, 2005

Set: Bruno Fara & Renée Guerin, 2018

Set: Renée Guerin & Bruno Fara, 2019

Set: Gunter Hommel & Joachim Friedrich, 2008

Set: Hannes Webhofer, 2017

Set: Martin Schepers, 1999

Set: Mathieu Bouyoud, 2011

FA: Moritz Winkler, 2016

FA: Mathieu Bouyoud, 2011

Set: Mathieu Bouyoud, 2011

Set: Karsten Oelze, 2000

Set: Karsten Oelze, 2000

Set: Joachim Friedrich & Fl. Friedrich, 2005

Set: Joachim Friedrich & Gunter Hommel, 2010

Set: Joachim Friedrich & Gunter Hommel, 2010

Set: Joachim Friedrich & Gunter Hommel, 2010

Set: Joachim Friedrich & Gunter Hommel, 2014

Set: Joachim Friedrich & Gunter Hommel, 2014

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Aris Theodoropoulos and Katie Roussou

Date: 2023

ISBN: 9788898495207

A comprehensive guidebook describing all the rock climbing, and sport climbing at Kalymnos, covering over 4,200 routes ranging from F3a to F9a.

Author(s): Chris Craggs

Date: 2018

ISBN: 9781873341384

A selective guidebook from Rockfax covering the rock climbing and sport climbing on the Aegean island of Kalymnos, describing over 2,800 routes.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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