Routes in Meteora for selected grade

1st pitch 7qd, 2nd 2qd, 3rd 0qd, 4th 4qd, 5th 1qd

Approach

• Starting Point: Park your car at the coordinates (39.722960, 21.622752).

• Walking Directions:

  1. Walk downhill along the main road.
  2. Pass the camping site on your left and Tavern on your right.
  3. Continue on until you reach a crossroad.
  4. At the crossroad, turn right.
  5. Continue Walking, the road will go slightly uphill. Continue until you arrive at a small creek (39.720539, 21.618838).
  6. Follow the Creek towards the starting point of the route, located at coordinates (39.72157, 21.61920). There is a small pathway on the east side of the creek.

P1 8 bolts, P2 ? bolts.

P1: Overgrown corner, easier to climb the right face, then turns into a water groove. 4 bolts, a couple of cam placements.

P2: Slab, 3 bolts. The anchor is under the crack and a bit to the right.

P3: Crack/ chimney. 4 bolts, takes large cams. Hanging belay at the slab on the left

P4: Short leftward traverse then up either through the groove (right wall quite loose) or slab to the left. 2 bolts, belay from a tree.

Rappel from "Schwarze Magie" (Black Magic), one 10m approach rappel, one 50m to the ground.

Clearly to the right of the NE edge to the 3rd stand of the NE path (25m, V, 4 bolts / 25m, V-, 2 bolts / 25m, V+, 3 bolts).

P1: Easy ramp and a corner. 25m, belay to a thread.

P2: Chimney to off-width crack, then a corner. One intermediate bolt, single ring anchor. 35m

P3: Easy chimney, single ring anchor. 45m

P4: Narrow chimney, belay on gear. 30m

P5: Chimney, belay on three. 40m

The lenghts are given as listed on the guidebook, they seemed shorter to us.

The summit register is to the right. To descent get back into the crack towards the other side. Descent a chimney for about 10m (you can belay from a small tree).

Guidebook says 20m rappel to a tree, 20m to a ring, 40m to a ring, 35m to ground. We linked the first two, and the third was more like 20m, luckily there was a new route anchor at 40m but it was hard retrieving the ropes

Escalade sur galets sur l’arête du rocher. Les points sont assez éloignés notamment au début et les galets sont cassants. Les trois premières longueurs (4C, 4C,5C) comportement respectivement 6 points, 5 points et 4 points. La fin est relativement facile (3) et c’est de la marche sur le haut du rocher. Il y a seulement 1 point.