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Mother Wall Guide

  • Grade context: US
  • Ascents: 8

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Subhash S Narayan Pai Yash Choudhari

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Mother Wall 8 routes in Crag

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 12.765591, 77.294098

summary

Mother Wall is about 70 km from the center of the city, with easy access to the base. The climbs are best climbed early mornings, and in the evenings (post 4 pm during winters and monsoons).

description

These are multi-pitch slab Sport routes largely but expect a good diversity of moves. Good quality climbs with new bolts.

To exit the climbs, walking off is tricky (long hike to the right, over the ridge), so plan to rap off. Route #1 (High on Grass) has possibility to rap off on 60-meter ropes, the rest would require 70- or 80-meter ropes. Easy to traverse from Routes 2-5 to Route #1. Routes 6 & 7 are about 200 feet to the right on the crag, and the first routes that come up on the right as you access the crag.

Exiting the climbs is time-consuming, as many of the pitches are 35-meter plus, with only one odd route with pitch lengths allowing for 30-meter rappels. Bear country. The hillock warms up considerably and remains warm towards the evening.

33 km from NICE Road exit on Mysore road. Turn off at Mayaganhalli, 23 km after Nice road junction on Mysore road. Nearest village is Mother Sabar Doddi.

access issues

None currently. The hillock is not on private property, but the access is.

approach

10 minutes from the road, 3-400 meters, if the base is not overgrown. Typically, post monsoons, the left side routes are accessible through a thicket. Carry a machete to clear the bush, and access.

history

The area was first developed for climbing by Dinesh Kaigonhalli, Pranesh Manchiah, and Seema Pai in 2015.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 High on Grass

• Exit: Rap off with a 60-meter rope.

Set by Seema, Dini., Prani & Dini

5.9 Unknown 60m, 2, 17
2 Chocking the Cobra

• Exit: Traverse to High on Grass (Route #1)

Set by Prani

5.11a Sport 75m, 2, 17
3 Masala Papad

• Exit: Traverse to High on Grass (Route #1)

Set by Pranesh Manchaiah

5.11a Sport 78m, 2, 18
4 Inspiration and Chai

• Exit, traverse to High on Grass (Route #1) anchor station about 30 meters to the left of the top anchors. Top anchors shared for #4, #4a, and #5.

Set by Prani & Dini

5.10a Sport 80m, 2, 19
5 Comfortably Numb

• Second pitch merges with route #4, Inspiration and Chai.

Set by Seema, dini & Dini

5.8 Sport 45m, 11
6 Pranic Drilling

• Exit: Traverse to High on Grass (Route #1), and rap off on 60-meter rope.

Set by Prani & seema

5.10a Sport 75m, 2, 9
7 Rum and Rasam

• ** There is an Owl nest, in the cave behind the grass patch you see on the ledge. Avoid climbs #6 & #7, during Owl’s nesting season. Alternatively, these climbs deserve an alternate start.

• Exit: Rap off using a 70-meter ropes. Or a 60-meter rope, if you are comfortable with downclimbing on easy terrain.

Set by Dinesh Kaigonhalli & Pranesh Manchaiah

5.7 Sport 65m, 2, 10
8 Beku Beku

• • The first bolt is a bit of a runout. After you scramble about 15-20 meters to the ledge that forms the start of this climb, the first bolt is another five odd meters higher up in the corner. A fall before you clip the bolt in the corner, will certainly cause much damage. Hence the rating of R/X. • The moves in this corner climb, that transitions to a slab are quite interesting, and would have been more fun, if not for the flakiness of the holds. Despite the rating of 5.10b, I think the moves here are no harder than 5.9, but the ‘choss’ factor drive up the grade, I suppose. I found the route to be simpler than ‘High on Grass’, Route # 1. • After six bolts, the climb eases up, and then after the eighth bolt, you won’t see any bolts further. • There are two options here. One, you either continue climbing and angle left to join the second pitch of ‘Rum and Rasam’ (Route #6) and finish the route in one entire rope length, with an additional bolt protecting the rest of the 5.5 rated pitch, or, two, do the mildly exposed sharp left traverse from the eighth bolt to the P1 anchor station of ‘Rum and Rasam’ to break this up into two pitch climb.

Set by Pranesh Manchaiah

5.10b X Sport 63m, 8

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
5.7 Rum and Rasam Sport 65m, 2, 10
5.8 Comfortably Numb Sport 45m, 11
5.9 High on Grass Unknown 60m, 2, 17
5.10a Inspiration and Chai Sport 80m, 2, 19
Pranic Drilling Sport 75m, 2, 9
5.10b X Beku Beku Sport 63m, 8
5.11a Chocking the Cobra Sport 75m, 2, 17
Masala Papad Sport 78m, 2, 18
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