Gowda’s Farm Mostly Sport climbing 10 routes in crag

Named for the flake at the crux that seems as if it may come off at some point (not to worry, it has withstood the test of time and climbers for over a decade).

This two-cruces problem with the second and the main crux requiring one to traverse right from the flake to a thin ledge.

Route Credit, Balaji SR.

The first bolt is a bit exposed but optimally situated. Takeoff on a mildly overhanging boulder, make the first clip and then face the first crux of the route, which requires dynamic moves for folks of average or shorter height.

Then after a mildly runout 3-odd meter traverse, another out of reach bolt on the headwall that requires a technical move to make the clip. The short, but intense headwall is well protected.

Old school grade. Feels harder by a grade or two than the given grade. Is the hardest route amongst all the routes here.

Route credit, Dinesh Kaigonhalli. Rebolted with Rawl bolts in 2016 by BCI, including the addition of top bolts.

The route starts on the boulder at the base of the crag, protected by a bolt, and continues up, directly under the roof. If you traverse right along the crack, you would have taken an easy variation of the original route.

The initial slab moves on the boulder take off and the roof transition are the hardest moves in this entire climb. Otherwise, will go at 5.10a or b for a small section and considerably lower for rest of the route.

Route credit: Gerhard Schaar & Pranesh Manchaiah

This variation follows the same line but uses the crack instead of the bolts after the fourth bolt on the roof. And then again you clip the penultimate bolt to protect the slab.

An old classic line that used to have two bolts leading up to the crack, and the climb used to follow the crack.

In early 2000s, Gerhard Schaar in consultation with couple of local climbers but not the wider community had bolted the route slightly to its right and changed the nature of the original line. This had caused some anguish in the local community, but the decision at this point is to leave the bolts alone.

Follow the arête, right of the boulder at the base, and follow the crack. The crux is right before the roof crack, and there after the route eases up considerably.

The variation uses the crack to protect route, after the third bolt. The line also changes a bit, as you stick to the crack, instead of getting on the slab. Option to use the penultimate bolt to protect the open slab.

The route is on the right side of Prema's Chapathi and traverses from the start to right and then back to left. The route is bow shaped.

Follow the arête, right of the boulder at the base, clip right and traverse right. The start is on thin holds on the slab and doesn't letup for next four-five bolts. Thereafter, the next crux is a long-reach slab move, before the route traverse left and straight up.

The first bolt is a bit exposed with serious consequences. Stick clip, or clip while exiting the route to its left (Prema’s Chapati)

Route credit, Gerhard Schaar & Pranesh Manchaiah

The stiff slab start gets you on to a ledge under the tree and the crux involves getting over the roof, with no good feet to assist.

Route credit: Gerhard Schaar & Pranesh Manchaiah.

Another stiff slab start. Stiffer than the start of the route #6. After the initial hard slabby moves for about 12 feet, the route becomes a 5.8 climb.

There is a particular beta to make this easier than it seems. Figure it!

Route credit: Gerhard Schaar & Pranesh Manchaiah