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Summary
Ignimbrite
Another great porphyr crag, found in the centre of the Monticolo/Montiggl forest.
Description
Slab
Vertical
Crack
Face
Slab
Afternoon sun
Brittle when wet
Wet in rain
North West
Originally developed by the Club Alpino Italian & Alpenverein Sudtirol, this is a lovely beginner/intermediate crag found in the middle of the forest near Monticolo/Montiggl lake.
The rock is Bolzano porphyr of varying quality, all routes are 20m or less (you're ok with a 40m rope).
Lots of good quality beginner/intermediate routes, with a couple of advanced climbs too. Nothing above 7b, so the crushers should look elsewhere.
Toprope access for almost all the climbs; a via ferrata goes along the top of the cliff, with bolts that you can use to abseil to the top-anchor of the climbs.
Approach
20-30 min
- 1.
- Park at Sportzone "Rungg" / Zona Sportiva "Rungg".
Take the "Rungg" Forestry road to the right of the sports field. Stay on this road until you reach a barrier.
From the barrier, follow a wide trail for approx. 20 minutes to the crag. (marked "Palestra di roccia)
- 2.
- BICYCLE APPROACH from Bolzano etc (approx. 35-40 mins walk)
On the Valle dell'Adige cycle path, leave your bike on the corner after the bridge at GPS (46.447492, 11.307097).
Looking towards the farmer's field, go left up and around the gate (there is an ok-ish trail).
Follow this trail uphill, turning left almost immediately. Pay attention to cairns (piles of rocks indicating the trail), due to landslides the trail changes directions multiple times.
Eventually you'll reach an old road that continues traversing up the hill. You are aiming for GPS (46.452097, 11.299512) on top of the hill.
When you reach the trail junction at the top of the hill turn left (south) and walk 5-10 minutes to the crag (indicated with signs).
History
Many thanks to the Alpenverein & Club Italiano Alpino of Appiano.
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