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Summary

Pumpy climbing on good holds. Shade all day, rain protected but seeps after prolonged rain.

Description

Mostly single pitch climbing through vertical & steep terrain on great features. Fully bolted. An 80m rope is recommended for many routes especially up in Eiszeit sector. Crag can seep for a while after rain but not all are affected.

Approach

From the car park (46.54697, 11.82103) the walls are on your right looling down the valley. Take the track marked for via ferrata brigata, this will take you direct to the lower sector (Basso, 3 min). Scramble up scree path to Alto sector. For Eiszeit, take the path from the top (SW) of the carpark and follow the climbers track up the hill for 10m.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Shares anchor with badia rocks

1st pitch 6b (30m), 2nd pitch 7b+

1st pitch 6a+, 2nd 6c, 3rd 7b. Approx heights 20m, 15m, 10m.

Easy climbing up to bouldery section through black water marked rock

Pitch 1) 6c, 2) 6c+, 3) 7c

Start at base of corner crack. 2/3 pf the way up take left line of bolts traversing above the roof (crux) in a great position. (Continuing straight is 6c Il castello dei ladini)

An easier finish to colz 5.0 that continues straight up instead of left

The bolts branching off on the right near the top is an easier finish (Panta Rei 7a+)

Start up Menhir, branch off right about 3/4 of the way up passing the loweroff for abbasso le moto

  1. 6c, 2) 7b. There is an easier finish branching off right from the 2nd pitch (7a)
  1. 7a+ 2) 7a+ 3) 7b

Start as for la giostra magica, after a few metres branch off right. 1) 7a+ 2) 7b

After 2nd bolt climb heads right around some loose ish rock before reaching the first pitch anchor. 2nd pitch crux is right off the anchors, recommend linking pitches (70m rope and a couple of extenders for first pitch) to avoid clunky fall on 2nd pitch.

Seepage through the roof

Seepage through the roof

FH's. Crosses through spiriti and ends at anchirs for supernova. Start seeps.

Links meteora into spiriti nelle tenebre. Start up meteora, branching off left (RBs) halfway up before joining into spiriti up through big flakes up into bulge and anchors. A good way to avoid the wet sections of spiriti.

Start at base of flake just right of roof system

1 3+
2 6
3 3 - 4
4 4 - 5
5 5+/6-
6 6+/7-
7 6+
8 5
9 5+

Wonderful climbing on good rock.

Gear
1 set of BD Cams up to size 2, possibly hammer and pegs, the 9 used stand pegs were left.
Approach
from the Gardena Pass, 2125 m, down the road to Corvara, park at the first bend in the road. 100m over meadow ascents (N) and follow the path to the Forcelles refuge. Continue on a level below the south wall until you can see the wall on the left, then immediately turn left along a path to the entrance. 1.30 hours
Descent
via marked path to the Crespëina pass, 2528 m (W), then down and up to the Cir pass, 2466m (path no. 2), from here down again to the Clark hut, 2222m, over meadows back to the road bend. 1.30 hours

FA: Simon Gietl & Andrea Oberbacher, 30 Jul 2016

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