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Südtirol Guide

Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Südtirol 3,705 routes in Region

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
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A
S
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D

Seasonality

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.656663, 11.434329

summary

South Tyrol, or Alto Adige, is a province in northeast Italy. It includes part of the Dolomites range, with limestone summits like the Three Peaks of Lavaredo and many other major summits and cliffs.

description

South Tyrol is a highly mountainous region and thus also offers endless climbing possibilities.

You can choose between vast, warm valleys, full of apple trees, wine and even palm trees, where you might experience an almost Mediterranean feeling. On the other side, South Tyrol also has a wilder, more rugged, but equally impressive side: the impressive Dolomites, Alpine flora with some of the highest peaks in the Eastern Alps such as the Ortler. In between, there are high-Alpine pastures, deep valleys, earth pyramids, crystal clear lakes, roaring waterfalls and endless cliffs. Make your pick!

The climbing region on theCrag isn't completely identical with the Italian province as parts here are listed within the Dolomites region and Bormio area, too.

See and edit Dolomites here.

1.1. Val Pusteria 396 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.904492, 11.905240

1.1.1. Zillertaler Alpen 215 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.929472, 11.751769

description

https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alpi_della_Zillertal

1.1.2. Rieserferner 181 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.884790, 12.069442

summary

The Rieserferner mountains extend across the Austrian state of Tyrol and the Italian province of South Tyrol (Trentino-South Tyrol region). The mountains mainly lie in South Tyrol, where the greater part is protected within the Rieserferner-Ahrn Nature Park.

description

1.1.3. Villgratner Berge 0 routes in Region

description

AVE 38

https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monti_del_Villgraten

1.1.4. Venedigergruppe 0 routes in Region

description

https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gruppo_del_Venediger

AVE 36

1.2. Höhlensteintal 358 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.670489, 12.245972

summary

Höhlensteintal (Val di Landro) is is a side valley of the Puster Valley in South Tyrol, Italy. It hosts several crags in breathtaking scenery.

approach

Enter the Landro valley from Dobbiaco (Toblach) and follow the river Rienz.

1.2.1. Landro 86 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: 46.625620, 12.225340

summary

Multiple sectors, short access and great rock make this one of the most popular crags in Val di Landro.

description

"Blue Cafe" is the first sector on the left followed by "Hägar" and Hexentanz (here split in 2).

approach

From Dobbiaco enter the Val di Landro until you arrive just before Lake Landro, park on the right shortly after Lake Landro. The crag is visible on the right.

1.2.2. Geierwand 57 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: 46.630133, 12.227174

summary

This crag above Lake Landro is comprised of 3 cliffs, Geierwand, Stube and Balkonien.

description

Great climbing on great rock with great views .

approach

Park on the left side after the lake (coming from Toblach, ( 46.630082, 12.228987). See individual sectors for details.

1.2.3. Dürrensee 36 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: 46.630155, 12.235855

summary

A nice West facing cliff, but due to the mountains on the other side of the valley the sun leaves the crag at about 5:30pm.

approach

From Toblach / Dobbiaco drive towards Venice - Val di Landro. Follow the road up a the valley for quite a while, until you arrive at the second restaurant at Lake Landro. Park on the left (on the lake shore). From the parking lot follow the small path that leads towards the crag at the lefthand side of the lake. Once you spot a wooden bridge on your right cross the river. If the river is low you might be able to walk along the waters edge. Continue on path number 6 and at the junction, take the path to your right that leads along the side of the lake. A cairn marks the start of the small path that leads uphill and lefti nto the forest and to the base of the crag.

1.2.4. Grotta di Landro 57 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: 46.621733, 12.230676

summary

Crag characterized by two large caves with routes in various difficulties incl. hard grades.

approach

Pass Lake Landro, after a few hundred meters leave the car on the parking lot to the right. Across the road beyond the bike path and the river, there is a path that leads into the woods. After about 200 meters, turn left onto a wider path until you reach path 6b. Proceed until you find a little cairn from which another path starts to the left. Shortly after, behind a large rock, a steep path leads up to the cliff.

1.2.5. Franchi 31 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: 46.640829, 12.230807

summary

A crag with loads of hard routes and link-ups that is also well protected from rain.

approach

Easy to reach from the parking area. Please dont forget to have a valid parking ticket.

1.2.6. Militärklettergarten 31 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: 46.643853, 12.229138

summary

A great crag for beginner and intermediate climbers, lots of well bolted lines.

description

Gut gesicherter Klettergarten, sowohl für Anfänger als auch Fortgeschrittene.

history

This crag was developed by the military.

1.2.7. Val Rienza 59 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: 46.634520, 12.257836

summary

A nice and popular crag with great views.

description

Sun until 4pm.

approach

Drive into the Höhlensteintal (Val di Landro) and park near the hotel Drei-Zinnen-Blick (you need to buy a ticket). Hike into the valley in direction of Drei Zinnen (Tre Cime) until you see the sign for the crag and go up left.

1.2.8. Rienzwand 1 route in Cliff

Summary:

Lat / Long: 46.618994, 12.281392

1.3. Val d'Isarco 213 routes in Region

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.844410, 11.437594

summary

The Valle Isarco connects the Stubai Alps with the Dolomites.

description

The valley of the Isarco (Eisack) river stretches from Brenner Pass southwards down to its confluence with the Adige near Bolzano. The upper valley north of Franzensfeste is also known as Wipptal.

1.3.1. Hohe Festung 31 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: 46.775744, 11.624388

description

Der Klettergarten neben der oberen Festung in Franzensfeste erfreut sich bereits seit Jahren großer Beliebtheit bei Anfängern und Familien. Die grüne Wiese und zahlreiche liebevoll errichtete Bänke und Tische machen das Plätzchen am Wandfuß besonders gemütlich. Neu ist auch ein Übungsklettersteig für die ersten Meter in der Vertikalen.

The Klettergarten next to the upper fortress in Franzensfeste has been very popular with beginners and families for years, but advanced cimbers will also find interesting routes here, up to 6c+.

The area below the main wall is great too - green meadow with lots of benches and tables, plus anchors for slacklining.

The main wall Hauptwand is definitely the most popular; there are a few new routes that aren't described yet. The upper wall Obere Wand has lots of potential for further development, but for now you'll only find easy routes to the left and hard project routes in the overhang on the right.

approach

Park under the highway

1.3.2. Stohlwond 73 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: 46.869820, 11.275185

summary

Multiple sectors in a beautiful environment. Routes in many different grades, from beginners to hard movers.

approach

Drive in direction of Ratschings and park after the bridge after the ski resort. Follow the forest road down river and hike up left on a marked trail.

1.3.3. Mauls 18 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Lat / Long: 46.828546, 11.532249

description

A relatively new crag with potential for more routes.

approach

Drive to Grasstein and park just before the village. Follow the bicycle path north, pass the power station and cross the bridge. You see the cliff below you on the left.

1.3.4. Ridnaun 25 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: 46.930696, 11.279101

summary

A sunny crag with rather short routes.

approach

Park near the mining museum in Ridnaun.

1.3.5. Waldkofel Spiluck 23 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: 46.760779, 11.593770

summary

A relatively new crag with an amazing view of the Dolomites.

1.3.6. Mahr 43 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: 46.696020, 11.640281

summary

One of the older crags near Brixen.

1.4. Zona Merano e Val Venosta 919 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.671514, 10.853087

1.4.1. Tisner Auen 48 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.572108, 11.181091

summary

A roadside, East-facing, porphyr crag found at the end of the apple fields of Gargazzone/Gargazon. Fairly recent crag, lots of high-quality trail building, nice fresh bolts and well cleaned rock.

description

Sector A has beginner friendly/warmup routes Sector B has lovely climbing from 5b - 8a

Popular routes are fresh and frictiony, bring a wire brush for the less popular routes.

access issues

None

approach

Two distinct sectors (A & B): A is accessed directly from the carpark B is the upper sector, accessed by climbing "Was guckst Du???" (4b+)

If you trip over getting out of your car you might be able to belay the first climbs

From the MeBo, take the Gargazzone exit, head SW through apple fields for approx. 2kms straight. There is a carpark, toilet and information panel where the road veers left - park here.

where to stay

Carpark

ethic

Bolted cracks, slabs

history

Only recently developed with help from Alpenverein Sudtirol!

1.4.2. Tesimo - Tisens 32 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.580879, 11.159593

summary

Easier routes on a vertical cliff, great in summer.

description

Routes are listed left to right!

approach

Park at "Parkplatz Wanderweg Kirche St. Hippolyt"

Follow Sentiero 7 (left from carpark), cross the stream, turn right and follow the trail to lake "Hippolyt Weiner".

Cross the stream at the start of the lake, go uphill approx. 100m the the base of the crag.

All routes can be seen from main area.

1.4.3. Fragsburg 27 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.643042, 11.196381

summary

One of the older crags near Meran with little traffic. Thus some of the routes might be dusty or overgrown. Still a great crag for beginners and intermediate climbers.

1.4.4. New Fragsburg 31 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.638117, 11.202231

summary

One of the better crags near Meran with many harder routes. Can even be climbed in winter on sunny days.

approach

From Merano to Scena, at Rametz turn to Castel Fragsburg, remain on this road until you pass Fragsburg, proceed for 100 metres and park at the waterfall.

On the left take the path leading to the Fragsburg climbing garden, past the rock blocks. The routes can be approached via the iron ladder.

1.4.5. Algund 30 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 46.692399, 11.111671

summary

One of the most popular bouldering areas in South Tyrol.

approach

Make your way to Algund and park depending on which areas you want to go to. Also accessible by public transport.

1.4.6. Burgstollknott 34 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.688442, 11.073982

description

Beim Burgstollknott handelt es sich um einen kleinen,familien- und anfängerfreundlichen Klettergarten. Da der Wandfuß recht abschüssig ist,wurde hier eigens für Familien ein angenehmer Platz mit Bänken und Tischen erbaut. Geklettert wird auf kompakten Gneis,der von Platten bis hin zum leichten Überhang alle Steilheiten aufweist.

1.4.7. Hochgang 0 routes in Field

description

A high altitude bouldering area (above 2000m ASL) near the Hochganghaus.

1.4.8. Huafwond 38 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.684973, 11.049382

description

Die eindrucksvolle Felspyramide der Huafwond liegt in einem steilen Hang direkt oberhalb Partschins und sticht bereits von Weitem heraus.wer diesen Klettergarten besucht,dem wird eine atemberaubende Aussicht auf den Meraner Talkessel geboten. In mühevoller Arbeit wurden riesige Podeste und Bänke errichtet, um den Wandfuß gemütlicher zu machen.

1.4.9. Wintertraum 28 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.652753, 10.986711

summary

A very sunny crag with climbing on edges, cracks and slopers. Great for cold days, even winter.

approach

Drive to the centre of Naturns and from there in direction of Sonnenberg until you see a bigger parking on your right (46.65825, 11.00817). From there follow the Wallburgweg for about 30 minutes until you find a trail up to the right.

1.4.10. Schnalstal 152 routes in Region

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.710159, 10.878833

summary

The Schnalstal (Val Senales) is a side valley of the Vinschgau in the autonomous province of South Tyrol, Italy.

1.4.11. Latsch 75 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.623627, 10.854614

summary

Einer der populärsten Klettergärten im Vinschgau.

description

Der Klettergarten wird in zwei Sektoren unterteilt. Der sehr anfängerfreundliche Sektor Alpingeschichte und der anspruchsvollere Sektor Latsch Vegas der etwas weiter links liegt.

approach

Am Kreisverkehr nach Latsch abbiegen und einen der Parkplätze auf der linken oder rechten Seite verwenden (gratis). Von dort zu Fuss zurück Richtung Kreisverkehr und den Wanderschildern (Waalweg) direkt leicht bergauf folgen. Erste Abzweigung links nehmen und dem Waalweg eine Weile folgen. An der Stelle mit einer Brücke aus Holzbrettern über den Waal (kleiner Bach) nach rechts steil hinauf abbiegen. Dem Weg weiter folgen, an Steinschlagauffängern aus Stahl vorbei direkt zum Klettergarten. GPS Daten: (46.623056, 10.856667)

1.4.12. Schlanders 21 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.632570, 10.779668

1.4.13. Allitz 23 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.631841, 10.714133

description

Kids friendly crag with short approach and perfect infrastructure. The crag has a large, flat base and features a table and benches. Route names are labelled at the base of the crag. The routes are short and very well protected, but partially very close to each other.

approach

Coming from the Vinschgau valley on the Strada Provinicale 109, direction Laas, there is a parking lot on the left hand side directly before crossing the bridge to Allitz. From there, signs show the way to "Klettergarten": Follow the gravel road for about 200 m until you find a footpath on the right hand side. This leads to the crag after a few meters.

where to stay

There is a nice campground and various accommodations in Laas.

1.4.14. Nesselwand - Laas 51 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.586264, 10.700568

summary

A unique experience to climb on marble make you forget the long hike!

1.4.15. Laaser Tal 4 routes in Area

Summary:
All Ice climbing

Lat / Long: 46.572488, 10.687021

1.4.16. Martelltal 115 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 46.538919, 10.760445

summary

Martell is a southern side valley of the Etschtal in South Tyrol. It offers several climbing crags and a huge artificial wall on the dam of Zufrittstausee.

approach

Enter the Martell from Latsch.

1.4.17. Fuchsknott 17 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.516346, 10.580278

description

A small crag for hot days.

1.4.18. Bärenfels 17 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.511992, 10.602352

description

A older crag initially equipped by the army. Great for summer an warm days.

1.4.19. Zoll 11 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.822999, 11.197884

description

A small cliff in Paseiertal just above the road.

Routes are sorted right to left!

approach

Just about 1km after Gomion.

1.4.20. Stuls 47 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.829621, 11.189100

summary

A sunny crag for colder days with routes in most grades.

approach

Drive to Stuls and park near the fire station. A wide path leads to the crag.

1.4.21. Moos 25 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.833594, 11.164929

description

A small, not very frequented cliff. Climbing on edges and cracks.

approach

Park near an abandoned restaurant in Moos.

1.4.22. Sefnarwand 24 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.808392, 11.121388

description

Single and multi-pitch climbs with a great view.

history

Renovated in 2017 by Klttergruppe Passeier.

1.4.23. Pfelders 69 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.803525, 11.112044

summary

A great cliff for families and beginners near a creek. Good for sunny and warm days.

approach

Drive into the Passeiertal. From Platt in direction of Pfelders you will reach the restaurant Bergkristall where you may park. Hike down to the creek and cross the bridge to reach the cliff.

1.5. Zona Bolzano e Bassa atesina 483 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.533385, 11.356906

summary

As a major regional city, Bolzano/Bozen has an extraordinary variety of climbing on different rock types within a 30-45 minute drive of the centre of town.

1.5.1. Trodena Molini 70 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.313174, 11.322620

description

The wall diagram is located in place in a notice board hanging on the rock.

There is a third sector of which there is no report. It is characterized by more demanding routes than the other 2 and can be traced thanks to a sign placed on one of the hairpin bends above the hotel (therefore continuing the road by car).

approach

"Zur Muhle" (at the mill) recognizable by the water mill wheels and the wooden gutter suspended above the road. There it is possible to park. Take the road towards the valley, on the right side you will immediately find a sign indicating the gym. 5-10 minutes of trail.

Parking space of "Zur Mühle". Park as far down as possible.

1.5.2. Cortaccia - Kurtatsch / Marderplatten 45 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.317202, 11.211712

summary

A very sunny crag with excellent rock quality.

1.5.3. Fennberg 41 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.288976, 11.177193

1.5.4. Val Sarentino - Sarntal 96 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.702622, 11.374872

1.5.5. Cortaccia - Kurtatsch / Kreidlwaende 8 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 46.316948, 11.200281

1.5.6. Garbe 18 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.251866, 11.239725

description

A small crag also nice on hot days.

1.5.7. Mittelberg Grindlegg 21 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.572096, 11.488471

1.5.8. Graun - Hintersegg 22 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.320106, 11.213352

1.5.9. Unterinn 8 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.508795, 11.419076

summary

A lovely SW Bolzano Porphy crag. Mostly sport climbs

description

There about 50 routes on very compact "Bolzano porphyr". It is southwest facing, making it ideal for cooler days, morning/evening in summer or sunny winter days.

approach

From Bolzano head towards Cornedo (Karneid) and then towards the Renon. Climb the road towards the village of Unterinn. Before arriving in the town, turn left onto the Via dei Romani and park near the church (46.5077, 11.4324)

Walk up the road for about 200m, then take the first left (in front of house NR 23). Follow this for another 200m and go up a steep sealed private road. You pass a house and a little field, and when this path ends turn left. Follow this path to the crag.

history

Work started on the Unterinn crag in 2010, but it became official only in 2015.

1.5.10. Bagni Di Zolfo 21 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.506526, 11.295691

summary

Area di arrampicata in porfido alle spalle dell'ospedale di Bolzano. Contiene diversi settori e alcune vie di arrampicata più facili.

approach

A Bolzano, seguire via Druso in direzione dell'ospedale, alla rotonda immettersi su via Merano, proseguire superando il distributore e l'incrocio con via S. Maurizio, subito dopo c'è un parcheggio sulla destra, da qua costeggiare la strada e svoltare per via S. Maurizio, subito dopo c'è una carrozzeria e a sinistra, l'ingresso alla falesia.

where to stay

Downtown b-town

ethic

Maggioranza arrampicata sportiva, alcuni vie in fessure attrezzate

1.5.11. Piccola Virgolo 9 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.489175, 11.351539

1.5.12. Jenesien 5 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.514910, 11.316974

1.5.13. Seitner Berg 86 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.464924, 11.345420

summary

"Seit Mountain" the large plug of Bolzano porphyr, above Bolzano & San Giacomo

Home to the crag of San Giacomo, plus sport & trad multipitches above Castle Flavon/Pareti del Sait

1.5.14. Brantentalbach - Rio Vallarsa 0 routes in Crag

summary

Le grande parete nella valle di Vallarsa dietro Laives

description

Ampia distesa di scogliere di porfido con un grande potenziale per vie più lunghe. Si dice che sia di scarsa qualità in alcune aree.

Bisogno di ulteriori informazioni, se sai qualcosa sull'area stiamo cercando di aprire quest'area.

access issues

sconosciuto

approach

Attraversa il fiume sopra Casa Emmaus

ethic

sconosciuto

history

sconosciuto

1.5.15. Monte Macaion 0 routes in Area

summary

Macaion/Gantkofel is known for being the extraordinary prominent face looking down on Bolzano from the SW. It is most obvious on the drive to Meran(o)

description

Some alpine-style routes are present on the large faces. Rock quality is average

1.5.16. Montiggl 32 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport climbing, Rock climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.416329, 11.280632

1.5.17. Margarethenbach Wasserfall 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.521916, 11.268430

1.6. Dolomiti di Braies 218 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.666892, 12.067330

1.6.1. Laboratorio 32 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.699067, 11.947734

description

One of only a few conglomerate crags in Northern Italy. The crag is fairly new and rarely visited. The routes are often short and require maximal strength.

approach

From Brunico go up the Val Badia to Longega, turn left towards Vigilio di Marebbe, then in the direction of Pederü, immediately after that again right on Via "Al Plan Dessora". At the first bend to the left, park. From here it is about 200 meters on a path in the woods to the left and then 5 minutes to the cliff.

1.6.2. Ciastlins 75 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.683248, 11.970318

summary

The combination of a great landscape and the lake make this one of the favorite crags in the area.

approach

From Val Pusteria turn towards Val Badia and continue towards San Vigilio di Marebbe and Pederü, passing a soccer field and a restaurant on the lake. Cross the bridge and arrive at the parking lot. From here, take the path that runs alongside the river to the cliff.

1.6.3. Punta del Pin 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.636525, 12.157840

1.6.4. Kirchler 25 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.673110, 12.172114

summary

A remote crag. Due to the long approach it is rarely crowded and the views are amazing.

approach

Pass the Albergo Brückele and the first few hairpin turns after it. Park just after a hairpin turn 5 and hike up the steep trail to reach trail number 3. You will first encounter sector B, then sector A.

1.6.5. Plätzwiese 29 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.658908, 12.184597

summary

A great crag for summer at high altitude. Well bolted multi-pitch lines.

approach

Same as for "Kirchler" but continue until a parking before the Albergo Plätzwiese and hike up on the left. You can also follow Höhenweg 3 from Kirchler to Plätzwiese.

1.6.6. Pragser Wildsee 55 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.696323, 12.084912

summary

Pragser Wildsee is a beautiful place with 2 climbing areas, one left and one right of the lake.

approach

Drive in the directions for Lago di Braies. At the lake the road ends with a paid parking. Check individual sectors for details.

1.7. Alpe di Siusi / Seiser Alm 5 routes in Area

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.516640, 11.560685

summary

Rugged alpine climbing on inspiring faces and towers

description

Mountains and ski resort, a part of Süd Tirol / Alto Adige and hence most places have an Italian and a German name

approach

Buses run regularly from Bolzano / Bozen to Siusi / Seis. Expansive network of signposted trails to huts and often to the starts of routes.

where to stay

Siusi / Seis. Town and ski resort with options ranging from B&Bs and luxury hotels for accommodation.

1.7.1. Sciliar / Schlern 5 routes in Area

Summary:

Lat / Long: 46.516036, 11.564575

summary

Rugged alpine climbing on inspiring faces and towers

description

http://www.schlernalpin.com is the go to spot online for information, route topos and more

approach

From Siusi / Seis (regular buses from Bolzano / Bozen), there are signposted trails leading to a mountain hut, the Schlernbodenhütte, from which most of the climbs can be accessed, some via the signposted Gamssteig ("chamois trail")

where to stay

Schlernbodenhütte: a mountain hut close to many of the climbs Rifugio Bolzano: a mountain hut a few hours walk from Siusi / Seis Siusi / Seis: a town with several accommodation options

1.8. Val Gardena 114 routes in Region

Summary:
Bouldering, Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.571972, 11.686722

1.8.1. Pontives 63 routes in Field

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 46.590367, 11.635074

description

Shady due to trees.

1.8.2. La Cava 37 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.577439, 11.643232

description

Former quarry directly at the road but quiet enough because of a earth wall. Most routes are artificial.

approach

Park directly in front of the crag.

where to stay

In Ortisei you will find a lot of accommodations reaching from cheap apartments and B&B up to 5 star hotels.

ethic

Almost all routes are artificial, so no ethic discussions here.

1.8.3. Palestra Bernardi 12 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.541503, 11.768771

1.8.4. Stevia 2 routes in Area

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.577822, 11.761291

1.9. Puez-Odle 44 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.589595, 11.815431

1.9.1. Piz la Dorada 3 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.566040, 11.843807

1.9.2. Campill 32 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.617831, 11.856101

1.9.3. Parei dl Ciastel 0 routes in Crag

1.9.4. Lietres Turm 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.575758, 11.817873

1.9.5. Sass de Putia 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

1.9.6. Würzjoch / Passo delle Erbe 3 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.665412, 11.818858

summary

Nice frag below the north face oft Peitlerkofel / Sass de Putia

approach

Signs lead you to the "Klettergarten" from Würzjoch

1.9.7. Sass Ciampac 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.561802, 11.830705

1.9.8. Grand Cir 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Trad climbing

1.9.9. Cir V 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Rock climbing

1.10. Gruppo di Fanes 393 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 46.586969, 11.972366

1.10.1. Cima Nove 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.630409, 11.980434

1.10.2. Sass de la Crusc 9 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.610978, 11.948606

description

The Sass dla Crusc (German Heiligenkreuzkofel, also Rosskofel or L Ćiaval, Italian Sasso di Santa Croce) is a 2907 m s.l.m. high mountain in the Fanes Group in the Dolomites. It borders the South Tyrolean Val Badia to the east and is part of the Fanes-Sennes-Braies Nature Park. Below the western wall are the pilgrimage church of Heilig Kreuz and the Schutzhaus Heiligkreuz-Hospiz.

In the western walls of the Heiligkreuzkofel there are climbing routes of well-known alpinists such as Georges "the Greek" Livanos †, Sepp Mayerl, Albert Precht, Reinhard Schiestl, Prem Darshano, Heinz Mariacher, Luisa Iovane and Christoph Hainz.

Of particular importance is the central pillar opened in 1968 by Reinhold and Günther Messner, one of the most difficult routes at that time. At that time it was rated with difficulty level VI (the UIAA scale at that time was a closed scale), today with VII+. Heinz Mariacher succeeded in repeating this route for the first time in 1978, but with an easier (VII) bypass of the key point. It was not until 1988 that Andreas Orgler and Otti Wiedmann managed the first free repetition of the key passage.

Further modern routes are 'Loss lei, heb schun', 'Jugendliebe', 'Friedl Mutschlechner-/Carlo Großrubatscher-Gedächtnisweg' by Christoph Hainz and A. Oberbacher and 'Auf die Felsen ihr Affen' also by Hainz.

Source Wikipedia

1.10.3. Nêa 25 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.646214, 12.019652

summary

Climbing on vertical walls. Although it is located in a very beautiful area, it is a rarely visited crag and some routes may be a bit dirty.

approach

From Brunico go up the Val Badia towards San Vigilio di Marebbe and follow "Pederü", pay attention to the signs, you will find indications for the cliff which can be reached in a few minutes.

1.10.4. Pederü 23 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.636895, 12.043141

summary

Crag surrounded by a beautiful environment with routes in low and medium grades.

approach

From Brunico go up the Val Badia until you get to Longega and then continue to Pederü following the signs. Park the car at the hut and continue on foot.

1.10.5. Piz de Lavarela 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.585166, 11.970761

description

The Piz de Lavarela is the northwestern end point of the mountain massif extending to the southeast, which shows itself from the western St. Kassian in the Gadertal as a huge rock wall and separates the valley from the eastern Fanes. Piz de Lavarela is separated from the slightly higher Piz Cunturines (3064 m) by the Lavarela plateau (2885 m).

1.10.6. Sass Dlacia 185 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.551556, 11.982261

description

The biggest Sportclimbing Area in the Dolomites!

1.10.7. Torre del Lago 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.557426, 12.002347

1.10.8. Bandiarac Pfeiler 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.565960, 11.978205

description

A sharp tower above the Capanna Alpina.

approach

From the restaurant Capanna Alpina in St. Kassian follow the path towards the bottom of the wall until you reach the first rock and a small waterfall.

descent notes

Abseil over the route 'Besser später als nie'. At top of the route you will find a Steinmann. From there belay nine times. 50m twin or half ropes are mandatory.

1.10.9. Panorama 4 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.564288, 11.990800

1.10.10. Salares 35 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.541156, 11.989202

1.10.11. Sass De Stria 34 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.519274, 11.995472

approach

Park above on the road and go down to the crags

1.10.12. Falzarego 67 routes in Feature

Summary:
Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: 46.527928, 11.992158

description

Boulders

1.11. Gruppo del Sassolungo 244 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 46.517598, 11.728796

description

The Langkofel Group (German: Langkofelgruppe) is a massif in the (western) Dolomites. It separates Gröden (to the north) and the Fassa valley (to the south), as well as the Sella massif (to the east) and the Rosengarten (to the west). Northwest of the Langkofel is the Seiser Alm. The highest point in the range is the eponymous Langkofel with a height of 3181 metres. Taken together, the summits of the Langkofel form an arc which is only open towards the northwest. Within this arc there is only one small mountain, the Langkofelkarspitze, so that the group surrounds a kind of "inner courtyard".

approach

Coming from the north on the A22 take the exit "Val Gardena - Klausen - Gröden". Follow the signs to Val Gardena until you reach Selva (1620m, German: Wolkenstein) after 50 minutes. Then drive to the Passo Sella (2240m). Short before and below the pass, behind the Passo Sella Dolomiti Mountain Resort you may park on a big parking lot.

where to stay

  • Rifugio Toni Demetz
  • Rifugio Vicenza (German: Langkofelhütte)
  • Rifugio Carlo Valentini
  • Rifugio Salei Di Monteleone S.N.C.
  • Rifugio Friedrich August
  • Rifugio Micheluzzi
  • Rifugio Sasso Piatto
  • Passo Sella Dolomiti Mountain Resort (former Rifugio Passo Sella)

1.11.1. Sasso Lungo 11 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad climbing, Alpine climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.522482, 11.736070

description

The Sassolungo is the main summit of the Sassolungo group in the Dolomites of Val Gardena and a well-known climbing mountain. The name "Langkofel" Ladin "Saslonch", Italian "Sassolungo", respectively meaning "long stone / rock".

The Sassolungo (3181 m) extends over one kilometer in NW-SE direction. Together with with his so called "Langkofeleck" east summit it builds in terms of area the half of the group. The normal route leads through the southwest wall to the Gipfelverbindungsgrat (II) and from there to the summit (III) and is extremely long. The first ascent was made on August 13, in 1869 by Paul Grohmann (1838-1908). On the Sassolungo is a bivouac as an emergency shelter.

In a natural niche on the east side of the Sassolungo a about 3 meters high carved wooden Madonna is installed. It was set up by the sculptor Flavio Pancheri itself and the Catores (Alpine School and Mountain Guides Val Gardena) in the 1950s. The 'Rampenführe' climbs above this Madonna.

1.11.2. Cinque Dita 3 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.513771, 11.737225

description

Famous and accessible area of Sassolungo - many routes close to Rifugio Toni Demetz

approach

To access most routes:

From Passo Sella, take the cable car or Sentiero 525 to Rifugio Toni Demetz.

where to stay

Rifugio Toni Demetz

1.11.3. Punta Grohmann 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.510507, 11.734684

1.11.4. Innerkoflerturm 0 routes in Cliff

1.11.5. Zahnkofel 1 route in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.509358, 11.725950

1.11.6. Città dei Sassi 210 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 46.512451, 11.752963

summary

Short routes at boulders in an alpine surrounding.

description

The Cittá Dei Sassi (Italian, German: Steinerne Stadt) is a boulder field below its parent 'Sasso Lungo'. A long time ago those boulders belonged to the great mountain, nowadays they provide a lot of short routes in a very scenic location.

approach

Park at the Passo Sella Dolomiti Mountain Resort. From the 5-20 minutes to the boulders.

where to stay

See 'Gruppo del Sassolungo'

1.11.7. Sassopiatto 1 route in Cliff

Summary:
All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 46.513403, 11.713544

1.11.8. Singing Rocks 16 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.528814, 11.742694

1.12. Gruppo del Sella 249 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.518742, 11.813286

1.12.1. Tridentina 36 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.545533, 11.825878

summary

Pumpy climbing on good holds. Shade all day, rain protected but seeps after prolonged rain.

description

Mostly single pitch climbing through vertical & steep terrain on great features. Fully bolted. An 80m rope is recommended for many routes especially up in Eiszeit sector. Crag can seep for a while after rain but not all are affected.

approach

From the car park (46.54697, 11.82103) the walls are on your right looling down the valley. Take the track marked for via ferrata brigata, this will take you direct to the lower sector (Basso, 3 min). Scramble up scree path to Alto sector. For Eiszeit, take the path from the top (SW) of the carpark and follow the climbers track up the hill for 10m.

1.12.2. Paradise 8 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.538574, 11.830446

1.12.3. Brigata Tridentina 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 46.540085, 11.826686

description

Via ferrata climbs a wall on the north flank of the Sella Massif, next to a waterfall up to the plateau/shelf that runs around partway up the Massif.

1.12.4. Cra da la Mirí 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.536240, 11.839764

1.12.5. Faccia oscura della Luna 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.538346, 11.832523

summary

Multipitch sport climbing on excellent rock

description

A series of new bolted multi pitch sport routes on the face just to the right of the Val Mezdi. Routes between 6 and 9 pitches on excellent rock

access issues

Easy stroll from nearby carpark. Passing tourists will take photos of you climbing.

approach

5 mins from your car walking through the park.

where to stay

Nearby campground.

ethic

Sport.

1.12.6. Murfrëittürmes 1 route in Cliff

Summary:
All Ice climbing

Lat / Long: 46.539741, 11.806055

1.12.7. Frea 41 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.544219, 11.807512

approach

Park at the the Passo Gardena. Follow the road below the crag and then use one of the trails to reach the bottom of the crag. To reach the upper sectors use the via ferrata that starts in the sector 'Bittersüss und Fingerkraut'

1.12.8. Cansla 37 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.531536, 11.786381

description

Almost all routes lead across gray, usually slightly inclined dolomite slabs. All routes are well secured with bolts or pitons, as well as the stands; always sufficient, a 50-meter rope, also for rappelling. 10 quickdraws are in most cases enough.

All sectors are facing west with sun from 12 clock until sunset; in midsummer very nice evening.

Best season is from May to October, depending on snow and weather conditions. The best certainly from July to September.

approach

From Wolkenstein you drive towards Passo Sella to the junction of the mountain pass that leads to Passo Gardena. You drive straight ahead (towards Passo Sella), about 300 meters to a large parking lot; in just a few minutes away from here all sectors of the climbing area.

About the parking lot you can clearly see the western wall of the Meisules dla Biesces. The left half consists of gray, compact limestone slabs, while the right side dominates yellow-brittle rock. Right below it is a striking slab pillars, the 'Traumpfeiler'. Right of the pillar flows a waterfall, which is usually dried out in the summer months. In five minutes you reach the base of the falls. If you follow this path of traces left (50 m), one arrives at a wire rope passes to the right of the entrances to the 'Traumpfeiler'. If you follow the little path marked out to the left so it is a mere 150 meters below the Snoopy slab, which is left bounded by a striking scale. Just to the right of the above-mentioned waterfall is a slab with six routes (6a). From here a steep path leads to the right to 'Woodstock' slab.

history

The history of the climbing area Cansla begins in 1983 At that time S. Stuflesser and G.Demetz from St. Ulrich started the job, to explore the western wall of the Meisules dla Biesces. Your first bolts they beat in a short limestone slab, the so-called "Snoopy-Platte". Here is the first sport climbing routes in the Sella group emerged: 'Snoopy', 'Unmögliche Phantasie' and new annual pitches with ever increasing difficulty.

A year later, the striking, 150-meter-high pillar slab was developed below the striking yellow wall. S. Stuflesser and C. Großrubatscher set up the route 'Traumpfeiler' from above; with this classic, which gave its name to the pillar, a new era began in Val Gardena: the time of extreme and safe sport climbing. You have to imagine that until 1983 there's not a single bolts was beaten in the modern sense. For climbing in the area Val Gardena, Dolomites and in the whole, the early eighties were thus a period of prosperity and the expansion of boundaries. Nevertheless, bolting in the Dolomites was strongly asked over and over again in question. And is today.

After the first ascent of 'Traumpfeiler', a VIII, on which still overhang specialists tough time, the climbing opportunities have multiplied in Cansla, be it on 'Traumpfeiler' itself as well as the 'Woodstock' slabs on the right. The industrious among the route setters, members of the Gardena Alpinist group "GAG", were Simon Demetz, Karl Vinatzer, Manfred Stuffer and Adam Holzknecht. But the route setters of "G.A.G." had not only sport climbing routes well prepared, but also extreme first ascents in alpine terrain, especially in the Sella group performed.

At present the visitors of Cansla find about 90 pitches, offer the most vertical, partly overhanging climbing. The most difficult tour of the crag is 'Furia'. The large roof at the left edge of the pillar was first climbed in 1990 by Manfred Stuffer. Repetitions are to 2010 not known.

1.12.9. Mëisules dala Biesces 3 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.534082, 11.787813

1.12.10. Torri del Sella 17 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.510564, 11.777933

approach

Park at and walk from the Sella Pass following well defined trails to the foot of the various Towers. The first tower is the lowest and closest to the road. The second is behind it and to the L of both is the third tower.

where to stay

1.12.11. Piz Ciavazes 13 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.509175, 11.784144

1.12.12. Pian Schiavaneis 71 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.502892, 11.792758

description

The training facility in the Dolomites. With steep and athletic routes.

1.12.13. Sas Pordoi 4 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.499789, 11.805723

1.12.14. Piz Miara 1 route in Cliff

Summary:
All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 46.523823, 11.796282

1.12.15. Eiszeit 10 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.547140, 11.820090

description

Oberhalb des Parkplatzes vom Piscadu Klettersteig

approach

Vom Parkplatz nach rechts oben haltend über das Geröll

descent notes

Siehe Zustieg

1.12.16. Boeseekofel 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Ice climbing

Lat / Long: 46.534557, 11.845105

1.13. Val di Fassa 28 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 46.443912, 11.698251

1.13.1. Col Rodella 0 routes in Crag

summary

compact limestone slabs

description

2300 m altitude

1.13.2. Gruppo del Catinaccio 8 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 46.463759, 11.638655

description

The Rosengarten group (Italian: Catinaccio [katiˈnattʃo], Ladin: Ciadenac, Ciadenáze) is a massif in the Dolomites of northern Italy. It is located between the Tierser Tal and Eggental in South Tyrol and the Fassa Valley in Trentino.

One peculiarity of the Rosengarten is the pink shade which, due to the presence of dolomite mineral, it takes in the sunset, celebrated in the Bozner Bergsteigerlied as "glowing". Meaning "Rose garden" in German, the name refers to the legend of King Laurin and his Rose Garden, a traditional story explaining the outer appearance of the mountain range.

1.13.3. Bambine 20 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.429020, 11.741729

description

A nice crag for beginners and itermediate.

approach

30min from Ta Ciajaa uphill. Just follow the tiny walkpath.

1.13.4. Alba 0 routes in Cliff

1.14. Sottosassa 0 routes in Crag

summary

A fascinating crag along the orographic right of the Travignolo river. Climbing is characterise by cracks and vertical, smooth plates which require crack skills and strength and resistance of fingers.

approach

Drive to Val di Fiemme using SS48 coming from Val d-Adige (Ora), along the SS612 coming from Val di Cembra, or the SP71 coming from Valfloriana or along the SS50 coming from Primiero - Passo Rolle. From Predazzo (Pardatsch) briefly follow the road of Passo Rolle (SS50) and abandon it near a large open space (often used as storage area for logs) to follow a forest road (on the right) which heads towards Val Travgnolo (campsite indications). Drive past the campsite, cross a stone bridge and leave your car at the parking lot on the left.

1.15. Passo Rolle 0 routes in Crag

summary

This crag is located just next to the road on Passo Rolle (Rollpass). An excellent crag for hot days in summer.

description

This crag also offers a great view of the Cimon della Pala, one of the most photographed peaks in the Dolomites.

approach

Drive into Val di Fiemme through the SS48 coming from Val d-Adige (Ora), along the SS612 coming from Val di Cembra, for the SP71 coming from Valfloriana or along the SS50 coming from Primiero - Passo Rolle. From Predazzo take and follow the SS50 of Passo Rolle until you reach the pass where there are several parking possibilities.

From the Bar Albergo Vezzana take the trail that continues behind the building. In 3 minutes you are under the cliff.

1.16. Bilico 3 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.230381, 11.875955

summary

A crag high up in Val Canali in the Italian Dolomites, not far from Primiero.

1.17. Val Noana 0 routes in Crag

1.17.1. A 0 routes in Sector

1.17.2. B 0 routes in Sector

1.18. Innerfeld 38 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.673208, 12.298123

1.18.1. Sektor A 20 routes in Sector

Summary:

description

Up left from the Rifugio Dreischusterhütte.

1.18.2. Sektor B 18 routes in Sector

Summary:

description

Along the creek from Rifugio Dreischusterhütte.

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