The route follows an independent line of holds between Pappagorgia and In Bilico.

As Zeni describes it: "it starts with a dyno followed by a not all too difficult boulder problem that leads past the small roof at the base of Bilico. The slab is relatively easy but the crimps are never really good enough to rest properly. The crux is located in the middle, 4 really small crimps which require perfect footwork. The route doesn’t let up and at 3/4 height there’s another finger crux. Despite being short, there are nevertheless 52 moves. The bolting respects the other climbs at the crag, so it’s fairly runout and although it’s never dangerous, it’s not possible to aid AO your way up. The route is interesting also because, unlike the other climbs, when I bolted it I decided not to place an abseil chain at the top. Instead, you have to mantle over the lip, untie and walk easily back down to the base of the crag."

Route history

Route setter: Alessandro Zeni
18 Nov 2018First free ascent: Alessandro Zeni



Lat/Lon: 46.23038, 11.87596

Grade citation

9a+ Assigned grade


Mega Classic
Very Good
Don't Bother

Based on 0 ratings.

Tick Types

Comment keywords

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Alpenverein Südtirol

Date: 2018

Author(s): A. Conz

Date: 2020

Author(s): G. Colombetti

Date: 2021

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