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Summary

The large rocky outcrop on the hillside below Gasthaus Noafer, only recently developed. A plug of porphyr of varying quality provides long route potential

Description

The crag for Sonntagsspaziergang

Approach

Park at Gasthaus Noafer.

Follow the signs for Sentiero 11 (Red & White), continue down Noafer-Moarraut Road to below the cliff band. (Trail to base of cliff marked with cut tree stump), head directly uphill to GPS point (46.508,11.303) where Sonntagsspaziergang starts.

Where to stay

The wineries under the route belong to Gasthof Noafer, where the self-pressed wine can be tasted. The landowner loves visitors

History

History timeline chart

Opened February 2020

Routes

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Grade Route

Follow to GPS point (46.508,11.303). The area around the start of the climb has been obviously cleared of vegetation, and the rock cleaned. You can see a tree with a fixed sling approx. 5 metres off the ground from the base.

  1. [35m, V] Follow the crack diagonally up to the left, around a tree with a thread. Trend right up the slab following bolts up to the horizontal crack in the overhang. Follow this diagonally up to the right. 2 BH anchor

  2. [30m, III] From the belay, go up to the second tree with the thread and immediately left. Follow the dihedral up, and cross to the right to the fixed rope. Follow this over wandery terrain to the next anchor (2 BH). runners/extendables recommended

  3. [25m, IV +] Up the slabs (3 bolts) to a ledge. Follow this for 5 bolts, immediately after, you find the anchor (2 BH).

  4. [50 m, II, 1 bra] The Borneo Expedition. Up approx. 5m to the fixed rope, follow the rope through bushes and ledges to the next stand at two bra. Watch out for the loose rocks!

  5. [35 m, IV +] Follow the arete, very nice climbing with little pockets and and knobs. Anchor on two bolts. lots of moss, bring wire brush

  6. [35 m, V-] Continue up nice climbing on arete/slabnice up to a ledge. Climb next small wall with a crack (1 bolt). Official anchor on fixed tat off large pine tree. Recommended to use first bolt of pitch 7 and slung rock as anchor. Rope drag & directional pull better.

  7. [45 m, IV+] Continue up corner, follow 3 bolts up to a vertical wall, go around to the right, up some blocky ledges (1 bolt). Pass a slung tree to the right, and over the last small wall to the anchor (2 BH)

Descent: From the top anchor, head north following a faint track into the forest up and over the hill. Continue down to the farmer's fence. Follow the fence steeply down to the road, and continue up to the carpark. OR Cross the fence using a tree. Go left (NW) following a more obvious track through the forest, around the field until you come out between the house and the small church. Exit through the farmer's gate (please shut the gate!)

FA: Luca De Giorgi & Peter Warasin, Feb 2020

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