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Description

The main climbing when you arrive at SG.

Follow the path to the right to discover more climbing.

Access issues inherited from San Giacomo

Private land, please be respectful of owners

Routes

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Grade Route

On the interesting wall - To infinity, and beyond!

Fairly long and wandery. Bring lots of quickdraws.

Goes up the small column to the headwall.

Starts with a finger crack going over a small block. Continues up slabby main wall, then up a dihedral with solid fist crack.

A nice line that wanders up various formations, with nice moves. Goes to the right of a small overhang halfway up the route.

One of the best "easy" climbs at San Giacomo.

Go up the two obvious ledges, clipping the blue fixed rope and the maillon rapide.

Follow the small diherdral, go left around the streaky black roof up to the chains. fuar

Steep start, clip the perma-draws (or just lower down and do something else).

effective grade: 6b ++
= only for the crushers

"Do you like Pina Coladas? Or sore toes in the sun? If you're not into yoga, then this will not be fun ..."

Starts on the big block resting against the headwall.

Thin, gritty slab climbing. Hold the FUCK on

Starts to the right of the Il Soriso di Edy.

Follow the arete feature

A wonderful adventure! Up the chimney/crack system to a ledge (can make a halfway anchor here) Continue up slabby corner with no hand holds, friction is key. Corner continues up into small dihedral.

From here, step across into the void. Traverse two bolts left under and around the roof, then swing back onto the arete and up the pumpy last moves to the anchor.

What goes up, must go down

Finger crack corto senza attrezzatura

Sopra il blocco grande, segui l'alternanze di strapiombi e placce

1 7b+ 38m
2 7a+ 32m
  1. "Steep and Deep". Starts on vertical rock, gradually becoming gradually more overhanging and scary.

  2. ?? Yay climbing

To the right of the wide overhanging crack with the fixed rope.

FA: Walter Andrighetto, 2015

Follow the slab up to the small tree and the bolt, then continue to the upper dihedral to the anchor.

Can't go wrong with such an epic name

1 6a+ 35m
2 5a 10m
3 6b+ - 7b 25m

P1: Beautiful pitch of crack climbing. Airy traverse and final moves to the anchor

P2: Short and shit. Access pitch to the goods up above.

P3: Pick your poison. Three different routes to choose from:

  • Left: 6c

  • Middle: 7b

  • Right: 6b+

FA: 2015

A delicious mix of chimney, arete and slab climbing. Well bolted

effective grade: 6a++

effective grade: 6c++

Short, pumpy bolted crack for the enthusiasts. Also a quality greenpoint

The twin cracks in the corner gobble up medium cams.

6b?

Closed

The climb with the first 2 bolt plates missing.

Follows the left learning crack system.

Still under development!

FA: 2021

1 6a 20m
2 7a 20m
3 6b 15m

Shares the first pitch with l'Orcopedica.

Needs a wire brush!

  1. Some crack sections, varied climbing.

  2. A shallow, thin finger crack, allows for occasional jams.

  3. Go up

FA: Edy Boldrin, 2016

1 6a 25m
2 20m
3 15m

Shares the first pitch with Lama Bolzano

The black/white marked rock that forms an obvious dihedral in the corner. Also a lovely lunch spot behind the large boulder (lots of nice sit rocks).

Go past Lama Bolzano & L'Orcopedica. This sub-area is marked by an upwards-pointing rock, painted in green "Area Bado Star"

Condivida l'inizio con Diedro Puma

1 6c 20m
2 6b 25m
3 6a 25m

Shares the start with La Bella

P1. The difficult dihedral on blocky white/black rock. Sport bolted.

Trad P2/P3

P2: Single bolt anchor

P3:

FA: Edy Boldrin & Vittorio Ricco, 2016

Difficult? Grade unknown

1 6b 18m
2 7b 22m
3 7b 20m
  1. 6a++ grrr .... The nice dihedral in the corner.

  2. Project

  3. Project

1 7a 20m
2 7b 15m
3 6c 22m

P1:

P2: Mixed climbing with some cracks/jams to be found

P3:

FA: Edy Boldrin, Vittorio Ricco & Daniel Volcan, 2016

non svilupatto

1 6b 25m
2 6a+ 20m
3 6c 28m
  1. An easy start leads to a slab that follows an arete. Some tricky moves in the middle with small feet and limited handholds. The anchor is on top of the column on the headwall (3 bolts + ring).

  2. Step up and away from the column and feel everything drop away. Follow the vertical line of bolts up the broken crack on the headwall until you reach a vegetated ledge and the anchor (2 bolts + ring)

  3. Go right
    . Runout the 1st bolt, possible to clip from the gully. Start low to right with the thin crack, hard moves to mega jugs. Follow the twin cracks to the top of the column, the charge through the rooflet, up the thin slab moves to the anchor (two bolts + old rope/carabiners).

Descent: Abseil the route. Recommended 3 x ~25m abseils for rope management. For the final abseil (P1 anchor), recommended to use the anchor on the right of the column to avoid the rope getting stuck, and not the 2 anchors on the headwall.

FA: Luigi Tiddia, 2019

1 6a 20m
2 6b 25m
3 6b+ 28m
  1. Bridge your way up the wide chimney (Kamin/Camino)

  2. Shares the middle pitch with Viechele. Step up and away from the column and feel everything drop away. Follow the vertical line of bolts up the broken crack on the headwall until you reach a vegetated ledge and the anchor (2 bolts + ring)

  3. From the tree, take the LEFT line. Bridge/stem up the first few bolts, then some easier crack climbing, followed by a small dihedral to the anchor (2 bolts + ring)

Descent: Abseil the route. Recommended 3 x ~25m abseils for rope management. For the final abseil (P1 anchor), recommended to use the anchor on the right of the column to avoid the rope getting stuck, and not the 2 anchors on the headwall.

FA: Luigi Tiddia, 2018

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