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The Giant's Head

  • Grade context: FR
  • Aka: Der Riesenkopf
  • Aka: La Testa del Gigante
1
FR
6b+

Summary

The legend says, in the deep, shady valley above Steinmannwald, there lies an old giant who protects the forest and the animals from the evils of humanity. We just see his head, and there we climb!

Description

A brand-spanking new crag above Pineta/Steinmannwald. Got some mighty potential for a bit of everything - roofs, cracks, slabs, aretes.

Access issues

The road from Pineta - La Costa is * officially * closed but driveable. Go at your own risk etc ...

Approach

Driving:

  1. Take the road from Pineta/Steinm. in direction of La Costa/Seit.

  2. Park at (46.445772, 11.354566) Have a look at the crag from the hunter's lookout - down to the right.

  3. From the sharp corner, turn L taking the small semi-obvious trail going uphill. Follow the trail uphill (it zig-zags a little, try and stick to the main trail and keep marking it out). You pass an old wire fence and a small clearing on the left. Start veering lightly to the right, up a steeper slippery slope (30m) to a flat section, an old mountain road/hunter's trail (46.445784, 11.355571) (about 200m in total).

    Lower access: From here, follow the trail downhill to the right. Go over a section of fallen trees, looking out for the cairns (stone piles). From the trees, go straight, traversing the slope for approx. 100m to the base of the cliff (46.445251, 11.356365).

    Top access: From the road/trail (46.445784, 11.355571), continue uphill, tending slightly to the right (towards the crag), for approx. 100-150m until you reach another flat section, with a single-track hunter's trail (46.445802, 11.356000). Turn right on the trail, turning towards the crag. Follow the trail, through thicker vegetation (the trail becomes very obvious), up a small rock-step (standing on an old tree stump), gently uphill, then finally a rocky down-step (watch out for the spiky bushes). Walk along the back edge of the cliff (staying close to the forest), then approach the main edge of the cliff from the easternmost side. There is some old rope on a reliable abseil tree at the top of the cliff (46.445325, 11.356526).

    Abseil on a 60m (plus extension to the edge of the cliff, rope protector recommended). Secondary abseil at 30m possible off

Ethic

TRAD ONLY

NO BOLTS

This rock has amazing potential for naturally protected lines. Do not destroy this potential with bolts!

If a new climb needs a bolt(s) in order to not be a death route, contact (tgbuckley) or any of the other new-school developers around Bolzano (Red Rocks guidebook developers or M. Camminati)

History

History timeline chart

Exploration around this cliff started in summer 2021, followed by the first lines going up in the following autumn.

Routes

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Grade Route

The first climb at The Giant's Head.

Aptly named for the technical maneuver required to remove loose rock off the cliff.

The first climb on the main buttress as you arrive at the base of the cliff. The first pitch follows the corner/mini-dihedral on the L end of the cliff.

Full trad, also at the belays. Recommended thin nuts & micro cams (P1/P2), and doubles in fingers --> hands cams (P3). Tri-cams also surprisingly useful.

  1. The Gritstone Experience. Up the mini-arete on the right to the horizontal break, stuff your gear in the dirty hole, traverse L past the corner and up the L crack. Sweat up a few more moves to a ledge. Easy climbing up the corner to the anchor (sling the big tree)

  2. Walk R ca. 5 metres along the ledge to the thin finger crack. Up the crack (little fiddly nuts & micros), over the mini-roof, up the face using the parallel cracks to the next ledge. Anchor in the crack just above the tree (conserve your cams for P3)

  3. The Indian Creek Experience. Hard move off the anchor, sling a few trees, bumble up some mixed crack/ledgey moves to the upper crack section. Some lurrrrrvely jamming moves (cams!) lead to the top-out. Anchor is in the crack above the top of the climb.

FA: tgbuckley482, Luca De Giorgi & Paolo, 21 Nov

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