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Pfattner Wände

  • Grade context: FR
  • Photos: 1
  • Ascents: 3
  • Aka: Parete di Vadena
5
FR

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Summary

The stupendous cliffs above Pfattner/Vadena, composed of the obvious columns of Bozen/Bolzano porphyr.

Description

Almost the entirety of the cliffs is undeveloped - in the last 7/8 years a handful of routes have gone up on/around a column of high-quality rock in the middle of the cliff.

Access issues

Warning do not let rocks fall into the forest/fields below the cliff. There have been problems with the farmers who live below, and the police.

Approach

Set the GPS for Lago di Monticolo / Montigglsee.

Follow the signs for Monticolo.

Parking options:

  1. (46.42267, 11.28172), Drive through the roundabout down to the lake. On the big L-hand corner, before Hotel Moser and the paid carpark, turn right down a small road. After about 200m, there is a small carpark on the side of the road (4 spots)

  2. (46.424675, 11.282478) You will notice leading to the lake that many people park on the side of the road - if it is a busy day this might be your best free option.

  3. Use the paid parking at the roundabout (46.422970, 11.28186) OR drive down to the lake (46.421860, 11.286033) (you save 10mins walking, often full)

From here, continue on foot along the forestry road through the woods. Follow it all the way until you reach the RAI Radio Station & antennae.

50m before the building, a trail branches off to the right, which you follow until you see the drop-off on the left. At the next gentle curve to the right, you leave the trail to find the top anchors of various climbs.

Ethic

Big crack systems on solid rock. A lifetime of high-quality trad lines available on the cliff. Please do not put bolts where climbs can be protected with trad gear!

History

History timeline chart

Earliest development in 2009 by the Riegler brothers' Cojote.

Routes

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Grade Route

Si seguono le indicazioni per Monticolo e prima dell'Hotel Moser si prende a destra fino ad un piccolo parcheggio. Da qui a piedi seguendo sempre la strada sterrata forestale fino ad incontrare le antenne televisive della Rai, superarle e continuare per sentiero nel bosco tenendo il margine della parete sulla sinistra fino ad incontrare prima i cordoni di calata di Cojote; 100 m dopo, la corda fissa di Anrainerproblem. Discesa: di 40m su corda fissa fino al culmine del pilastro. NB. Controllare che sia in buono stato! Utile un bloccante (es. jumar) per risalirla al ritorno dalla via. 3 calate, di due tiri ciascuna, seguendo l’andamento in diagonale della via (utile rinviare friends e spit in calata).

  1. 6c+. Boulder iniziale in fessura (proteggere subito con #1 BD), poi placca tecnica spittata, uscita in traverso a sx. (3 spit)

  2. 6b+/c. In verticale, tutto da proteggere, per lo più con friend misure medio piccole.

  3. 7b+, placca con tacche e lame verticali, seguire gli spit, uscita in fessura (friends medi, 6 spit)

  4. 6b. Bella fessura netta verticale, poi traverso a destra per entrare nel camino fessurato, deviando a sinistra a metà. Attenzione a un grosso blocco instabile!

  5. 7a+. Salire in verticale nel camino fino a rinviare il cordone al masso incastrato, poi a dx e di nuovo su a raggiungere un tettino, da superare prima alzandosi leggermente in fessura sul suo lato sinistro, poi traversando con passo aereo in orizzontale su buone prese (uno spit all’uscita del traverso). In fessura fino alla sosta.

  6. 7a+. Raggiungere verticalmente l’evidente fessura prima molto stretta (friends micro/ dadi piccoli), poi più larga fino all’#1 BD, uscita su friends grossi.

(da https://www.planetmountain.com/rock/vie/itinerari/scheda.php?lang=ita&id_itinerario=2247&id_tipologia=38)

Deutsch:

http://www.alpenverein.it/de/kletterer-alpinisten/alpin/anrainerproblem-pfattner-wände-mitterberg-unterland-129_7985_151237.html

http://www.bergsteigen.com/klettern/trentino-suedtirol/keine-angabe/anrainerproblem

Set: Vittorio Messini & Johannes Steindl, Jun 2014

FA: Thomas Wanner & Lukas Fritz, 2019

FFA: Florian Riegler, 2020

FA: Lukas Fritz & Thomas Wanner, 2019

1 7 35m
2 8 20m
3 7 20m
4 8 30m
5 7 30m
6 6 20m

The obvious winner in the battle for Best Bolzano Porphyr climb. 6 pitches of utter loveliness that follow a very obvious crack system from bottom to top.

Although it seems on the difficult side (max. 7a), almost all sections of this climb can be aided on cams.

Protection grade: R1

  1. From the anchor at the base, the route starts by the tree. Follow the crack upwards, a bit dirty with a few loose rocks.

  2. Short but varied crack length, can also be a bit dirty.

  3. From the stand on the tape back to the left to the crack. Morally demanding start at a wide crack and then easier intersection up to the stand.

  4. This is the key pitch, with a strenuous crack with sections of finger jamming.

  5. From the anchor, cross to the left to the dihedral. Follow this up past the tree to the anchor.

  6. Follow the crack a few meters vertically upwards and then left over easier terrain to the anchor.

FA: Martin Riegler, 2009

FFA: Martin Riegler & Florian Riegler, 2013

1 6b 35m
2 7a 20m
3 6b 20m
4 6c 30m
5 7a 30m
6 7a+ 20m

FA: Oliver Renzler, 2018

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