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Summary

Very popular single-pitch sport climbing crag near Arco but also some longer classics.

Description

Nice crag above the village Padaro near Arco. It's face is south oriented and best time is in the winter months from October to March.

Access issues inherited from Valle del Sarca

Many crags in the area of Arco are located on private land and the huge popularity of climbing and the resulting crowds brought it with it, that issues with land owners popped up in the past and continue to pop up from time to time. Please be sensitive to regional closures and limitations to access. Stay informed and stick to local regulations.

Approach

From Arco drive to Padaro and pass the village. Below the road makes to turns and between them there are two little parking lots. Don't park in the turns as lorries may come through. From the second turn follow the paths to the crag.

Tags

Areas

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Name
Style
Routes
Ticks
Height
Grades
Solarium sector
29
36
28m
Gufetta sector
7
0
20m
Gotico sector
20
52
26m

Routes

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Grade Route

15 bolts and 25 slings in the route, 20 bolts at the belays

Set: Grill & Grooten, 2007

FA: Grill & Grooten, 2007

1 5+ 20m
2 6 35m
3 6- 35m
4 6 30m
5 6- 30m
6 5 50m
7 5- 20m
8 1 15m
9 5+ 25m
10 5 35m

Very nice multi pitch route with belay anchors and bolts where it is hard to set up protection with trad gear. Rocks and friends are necessary for the cracks. The view to Arco and the Lago di Garda is amazing.

FA: Grill, Cabas, Heiß & Masera, 2007

1 6
2 6
3 6
4 3
5 6+ A1
6 6
7 5
8 5
9 6

There are 2 more pitches in 6 on the "flame" (the cliff right of the start) that are part of the route - climb them and scramble down first .

FA: Heinz Grill, Franz Heiß & Florian Kluckner, May 2014

1 5+ 50m
2 5- 25m
3 6 40m
4 6- 35m
5 6- 40m
6 5+ 40m
7 6+ 30m

FA: Heinz Grill & Franz Heiß, 2008

1 6
2 5+
3 5+
4 6
5 7
6 7
7 6
8 5+

6+ obl.

FA: Ivo Rabanser, Edy Rabanser & Franz Heiß, 2012

1 5+
2 6
3 4+
4 6
5 6
6 6+
7 6
8 5
9 6
10 4+

FA: Heinz Grill, Franz Heiß & Florian Kluckner, 2007

1 5+
2 6
3 4+
4 6
5 6
6 6+
7 6
8 7+
9 6
10 4+

Goes straight up after pitch 7 and joins the original route for the last pitch. The 7+ pitch can be climbed as 6 A0.

1 6
2 6
3 5+
4 5+
5 3
6 6
7 4
8 5+
9 5+
10 2

FA: H. Grill, F. Heiss & S. Konigseder, 2009

Connection between 'L’arciere' (8c) and 'Goosfraba' (8c+).

Set: Marco Erspamer

FA: Stefano Ghisolfi, Mar 2021

FA: Marco Erspamer

Sector unknow

FFA: Stefano Ghisolfi, 9 Nov 2020

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Cristian Dorigatti & Morris Fontanari

Date: 2022

ISBN: 9788855470797

Der erste Boulderführer für das gesamte Trentino, der nicht nur die bekanntesten Gebiete vorstellt, sondern auch viele kleine Paradiese, die der Masse der Kletterer noch unbekannt sind.

Author(s): Florian Kluckner

Date: 2020

Im Kletterführer Arco Plaisir stellt Florian Kluckner 105 lange Plaisirwege vor. Der Großteil der Routen verläuft im 5 Schwierigkeitsgrad - max. Schwierigkeit von 6b+.

Author(s): Florian Wenter & Lorenz Delago

Date: 2017

ISBN: 9783956110733

A selective guidebook covers the best bouldering areas in the central Alps across Switzerland, Germany, Austria and Italy, including Magic Wood and Mello.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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