Instant PDF
Directions in Google Maps
Seasonality
Description
The most precise description is available at https://www.gulliver.it/itinerari/orsomarso-mercuri/#main in Italian language. Translated for convenience here:
The crag is divided into four sectors: Plaques, Cave, Church and Last. The northern exposure provides shade all day long (the only exception being the Church sector, where the sun beats down until mid-morning) allows climbing even in midsummer. Pitches generally vertical and/or overhanging, from short/bouldery to long of continuity and endurance. Almost everywhere spectacular limestone, very often sharp holes and and notches. The only exception is the Grotta sector, where from "E c'edera e c'edera" to "Tribudipuglia" you climb reeds, stalactites and much more rounded holds and footholds (here slightly dustier and slippery rock, but it's a cave...). Medium difficulty prevails, few pitches on the easy and, however, physically demanding. Nailing generally excellent, almost always belay with carabiner for rappelling. The name of the pitch at the base is not always indicated (especially in the Chiesa and Ultimo sectors).
The list of pitches with their difficulties seems quite in line with the existing, but the crag is still expanding.
Approach
Taken, translated and validated second approach option from gulliver.it:
Two alternatives for accessing the cliff.
Coming from the sea take the SP10 toward Orsomarso. At the height of the agriturismo I Cedri take the bridge over the Lao River. 200 meters after the bridge, a dirt road on the right leads to the entrance of the path that climbs to the Chiesa, and then Grotta and Placche sectors (10-15 minutes - parking possible on the edge of the meadows below the cliff or, shortly after, along the road). Taking a right when you arrive at the Church sector, you reach the Last sector.
Otherwise, 1 km after the bridge, turn right following the signs for contrada Mercuri/contrada Castiglione. After about 650 meters on the right you will find a dirt clearing where you can park and from which a dirt road on the left that leads to the church of Santa Maria di Mercuri (but from which you do NOT access the cliff) and a path on the right that leads to the cliff. Following the path, you reach in a few minutes a rocky drop equipped with two pieces of rope (very easy unclimbing for 3-4 meters) from which you access the Placca sector and from this to the others following the path.
Where to stay
Ethic
It seems that https://climbinghouse.it did a great job marking the area. Keep the space clean and don't forget your belongings.
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