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Table of contents

1. Trentino-Alto Adige 9,564 routes in Region

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
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S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.447644, 11.282691

description

The Dolomites (Italian: Dolomiti; Ladin: Dolomites; German: Dolomiten; Venetian: Dołomiti: Friulian: Dolomitis) are a mountain range located in northeastern Italy. They form a part of Southern Limestone Alps and extend from the River Adige in the west to the Piave Valley (Pieve di Cadore) in the east. The northern and southern borders are defined by the Puster Valley and the Sugana Valley (Val Sugana). The Dolomites are nearly equally shared between the provinces of Belluno, South Tyrol and Trentino.

There are also mountain groups of similar geological structure that spread over the River Piave to the east – Dolomiti d'Oltrepiave; and far away over the Adige River to the west – Dolomiti di Brenta (Western Dolomites). There is also another smaller group called Piccole Dolomiti (Little Dolomites) located between the provinces of Trentino, Verona and Vicenza (see the map).

One national park and many other regional parks are located in the Dolomites. In August 2009, the Dolomites were declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

1.1. Arco - Trento Area 5,860 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.111735, 11.132906

summary

Arco has it all, endless cliffs, Lago di Garda, a beautiful historic town with plenty of climbing shops and a long tradition of climbing, amongst them the Arco Rock Masters - simply a climber's dream.

description

Located in the "Valle del Sarca", Arco and its wider surroundings offer a lifetime worth of vie ferrata, sport and multi-pitch climbing on limestone. While high season is from early spring to late fall, Arco offers climbing year round. Amongst the hundreds of crags in the region there is always one that is dry, sunny or shady and at the right altitude to make it a pleasant spot for your day out. The same can be said regarding grades and styles of climbing. There is enough for everyone. From beginners to top athletes, from slabs to steep overhangs, from boulders to multi-pitch climbs - you choose it!

Be aware that the area is especially popular around Easter or other holidays when many German and climbers from all over the world flock to here. While this might make it hard to find a table in your favourite pizzeria, there is always a crag that will be deserted, even during high season. Make your choice.

access issues

Many crags in the area of Arco are located on private land and the huge popularity of climbing and the resulting crowds brought it with it, that issues with land owners popped up in the past and continue to pop up from time to time. Please be sensitive to regional closures and limitations to access. Stay informed and stick to local regulations.

approach

Arco is located just north of Lago di Garda and less than 40km South West of Trento in the region of Trentino-Alto Adige / South Tyrol (Südtirol). It is easily reached either from the highway connecting Milan with Venice (West - East) or from the highway from Innsbruck (Austria) to Verona (North - South). While some crags are in walking distance from town or the camp sites, many will require you to have a car or transport.

where to stay

Arco is a touristy place with climbing tourists being a major group. You will find all sorts of accommodation, from camp sites to hostels, agriturismos and luxury hotels. Be aware that during high season - for example around Easter - many popular places, including camp sites, might be fully booked.

history

The history of climbing in Arco is almost as old as the history of climbing itself, at least of sport climbing. Sport climbing in Arco started in the early 1980's and often Arco, or the climbers developing and climbing in that area, set the standards. It was also in Arco that climbing competitions became popular with the first Arco Rock Masters in 1985.

1.1.1. Marino Stenico 37 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.448295, 11.166322

summary

Vertical climbing on edges and sidepulls with a large and kid friendly base. The orientation and altitude (1100m) makes it perfect for warmer days.

1.1.2. Tor di Visione - Masi di Vigo 18 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 46.261542, 11.120593

1.1.3. Dolomiti di Brenta 8 routes in Region

Summary:
Trad climbing and Alpine climbing

Lat / Long: 46.197047, 10.906616

description

The Brenta Group or Brenta Dolomites (Italian: Dolomiti di Brenta) is a mountain range, and a subrange of the Rhaetian Alps in the Southern Limestone Alps mountain group. They are located in the Province of Trentino, in northeastern Italy. It is the only dolomitic group west of river Adige. Therefore, geographically, they have not always been considered a part of the Dolomites mountain ranges. Geologically, however, they definitely are[1] - and therefore sometimes called the "Western Dolomites". As part of the Dolomites, the Brenta Group has been officially recognized as UNESCO World Heritage Site under the World Heritage Convention. Source Wikipedia

1.1.4. Valli Giudicarie 752 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.088475, 10.878464

summary

Valli Giudicarie is an area of Western Trentino, which includes the upper courses of the rivers Sarca and Chiese. It is located at the base of the Brenta group and offers amazing views and climbing.

description

The crags in the Valli Giudicarie are ideally suited for summer or on warmer spring and fall days. In general the crags are quieter than in neighbouring Valle del Sarca but are definitely worth a visit, for climbers in any grade and style.

approach

From Arco drive to Sarche and take the road in direction of Madonna di Campiglio.

1.1.5. Valle del Sarca 2,512 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.005117, 10.946757

summary

The Sarca Valley, stretching out north from Arco is the main climbing area in the wider region of Arco. It is complemented by many other crags just outside the valley but close to Arco.

description

The Sarca Valley (Valle del Sarca) is an outstanding climbing area north of Lake Garda (Lago di Garda). The sheer number of high rock faces, coupled with the proximity to the lake, the picturesque town of Arco and Italian lifestyle, makes the valley a great destination for many climbing holidays.

If you want to go sport climbing, however, you have to accept the popularity of the area and the associated wear and tear on the rock walls. Many routes in the well-known sectors, such as 'Massone', are already very polished. But there is so much to choose from that everyone will find something for sure.

The high walls of the valley attract with short ascents and spectacular views. Also here there is something for everyone. Whether beginner or expert, whether sport or trad climber.

For rest days there are a lot of opportunities:

  • mountain biking
  • hiking
  • sailing
  • windsurfing
  • kite-surfing
  • sightseeing
Note:
The crags are sorted from Arco going to the Western side of the valley and then upstream, heading over to the Eastern side and back downstream to Arco.

approach

Please refer to Arco Trento Area for details.

where to stay

Please refer to Arco Trento Area for details.

history

Please refer to Arco Trento Area for details.

1.1.6. Volta di No 40 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.930238, 10.849221

1.1.7. Tenno 21 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.939185, 10.817693

summary

Currently 2 sectors above lake Tenno.

approach

From Arco follow the signs for Valle di Ledro and Tenno and continue until you get to Hotel Lago di Tenno. Park and continue on foot towards the lake, follow the path that leads to the picnic area and then into the forest that leads to the cliff.

1.1.8. La Ponta 17 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.877169, 10.838199

summary

Less frequented low-altitude crag with views on lake Garda

description

A former alpine training ground, this area has been reequipped with bolts and now offers some pleasant climbs somewhat above the shore of lake Garda.

approach

From Riva, follow signes towards "Limone". It is safest to leave the car in the park house just after the tunnel. You may take a chance an continue for another 500 m, but parking there seems mostly restricted or is occupied. After the hydropower station (huge pipes from uphill), the old Ponale road (closed for cars) branches off, while the road to Limone continues through a tunnel. Walk ~200 m along the old Ponale road just before its first tunnel. There, opposite an info-board, a narrow trail leads right and uphill. After 3 min you reach the cliff.

Check http://www.openstreetmap.org/relation/46276#map=18/45.87805/10.83847

1.1.9. Parete Serenella 12 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Deep water soloing

Lat / Long: 45.871492, 10.837461

description

Attention: climbing above the water can be dangerous. It is recommended to bring a life vest. Never go DWS alone.

approach

Arrival: From Arco go in the direction of Riva del Garda. At the rounabout in Riva turn towards Rovereto/Torbole. Go through Riva intil you reach the fire station. Park on the opposite side of the road on a gravel square. Approach: Go along the pedestrian walk in the direction of Punta Lido. From here, continue with a pedal boat. The wall is located on the right side of the lake, near the Ponale road.

1.1.10. Regina del Lago 84 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.864049, 10.828134

summary

Sunny crag with single and multi-pitch routes and vistas of Lake Garda on the north side of the Ponale gorge. Not recommended for hot days.

description

in Italian: http://www.arrampicata-ledro.it/arrampicata_Ledro.htm

Wear a helmet, also when just lingering at the base! Activity on adjacent climbs, uphill sectors or hiking paths often releses rockfall!

approach

From Riva, follow signs towards "Valle di Ledro" through long tunnel (5 km). 200 m after the tunnel, there are parking bays left and right of the road. Walk back towards the mouth of the tunnel and turn right into the old Ponale road and through an old tunnel. After 200 m there is a stone wall supporting the left slopes. Where it ends, the path to the sectors start.

Do not park on the large paved section on the right side of the highway after the tunnel... 40 EUR fines are regularly given.

Check http://www.openstreetmap.org/#map=17/45.86491/10.81826

1.1.11. Finale Ampola 37 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.862658, 10.645102

summary

Finale Ampola, as well as Futur Ampola are not far from lake Ampola in the Ledro valley. Finale Ampola is a great cliff for beginners and families.

1.1.12. Futur Ampola 27 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.858413, 10.636643

summary

Relatively recent addition to the climbing in Arco in the Ledro valley not far from the lake Ampola. Perfect in the summer.

approach

Drive into the Ledro valley and pass lake Ampola and the turn-off to Tremalzo. Park just in front of the bridge crossing the river Palvico on the left side. Cross the road and hike up to the cliff.

1.1.13. Nago 321 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.872756, 10.897764

summary

The crags located around the town of Nago. Many family friendly crags with great views.

approach

Make your way from Arco to Nago. See individual crags for details.

1.1.14. Torbole 7 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.857013, 10.870852

approach

Parking: (45.8566301, 10.8704677) then back to the tunnel and through the first tunnel window.

1.1.15. Scivolo delle Marocche 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.861947, 10.879404

description

A slab just above Torbole. Excellent for beginners.

approach

From Torbole, head towards the historic center and then turn left towards the Parco delle Busatte (sign). Follow the narrow road to a hairpin bend where you can already see the grey slabs. Park there.

Continue briefly on the paved road until you reach the Sentiero dei Paloni on the right (signpost). Follow it and out of the woods and enter the area of the Marocche; after a few meters you turn right along a track in the woods, with not very visible orange and blue marks, which soon lead to the base of the wall.

history

The routes have been bolted by Eugenio Cipriani.

1.1.16. Spiaggia delle Lucertole 19 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.848349, 10.863130

summary

A really classic sector with lots of history. Slabs just above the lake might make you sweat considering the grade...

1.1.17. Corno di Bo 9 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.849451, 10.863882

description

Long slabs above the lake.

approach

From Arco reach the town of Torbole and continue on the Eastern Gardesana towards Malcesine-Verona. After about 2 km, take the second tunnel towards Malcesine. The crag can be seen immediately because it overlooks this gallery. At the bottom of the gallery on the right is a small parking area which can accommodate a maximum of 3 cars.

1.1.18. Torbolino 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.845183, 10.863389

description

A small crag left and right of the tunnel.

approach

From Arco reach the town of Torbole and continue on the Eastern Gardesana towards Malcesine-Verona. After about 3km, take the third tunnel towards Malcesine. Outside the gallery on the left is the parking lot. Here and at its side are the four routes of the Torbolino cliff.

1.1.19. Tassilandia 54 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.884577, 10.910239

summary

A relatively recent addition with great views of Lago di Garda and sunny exposure.

1.1.20. Narango 14 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.887623, 10.915562

summary

Routes not sorted correctly!

approach

Location might not be correct!

1.1.21. Rovereto 721 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.901760, 11.060690

summary

Located not far from Arco and easily reachable via the pass San Giovanni Roverto offers multiple crags, mostly for cooler days.

description

These cargs are located in the vicinity of Rovereto, in and around the Val d'Adige.

approach

Conviniently located along the Brenner highway or a short drive over from Arco.

1.1.22. Trento 926 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.152775, 11.135818

summary

Trento is located in the Adige valley (Etschtal) and the capital of the autonomous province of Trento (Trentino). It is at the heart of the Dolomites and a climbing mecca.

description

Trento on theCrag covers climbing areas in the surroundings of the city of Trento. Refer to "Valle del Sarca" and Valli Giudicarie for the major climbing areas located Southwest of it and Rovereto for the crags further South in the Adige valley.

approach

The Trento area is located along the Adige valley (Etschtal) and along the Brenner highway connecting Innsbruck to Verona and thus easily reachable.

1.1.23. Placche dell Armenterra 0 routes in Crag

1.1.24. Carzono 0 routes in Crag

1.1.25. Crozi de Sela 0 routes in Crag

1.1.26. Mondino 26 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.450626, 11.133424

1.1.27. Daone 190 routes in Field

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 46.000005, 10.522364

description

Valle di Daone is famous for its numerous outstanding ice falls, and after this initial development multi-pitch climbs were added to the valley and, more recently, bouldering.

Countless granite boulders tumbled down from the sides of the valley thousands of years ago offering a huge array of problems from 4C to 8B. Many sectors offer everything, from lush forest to those exposed to the sun.

There are currently 7 sectors with about 600 problems, spread out over 15km and 800m altitude difference, meaning that climbing is possible almost all year round.

Find updated information here: https://daoneclimbing.webnode.com/

1.2. Südtirol 3,704 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.656663, 11.434329

summary

South Tyrol, or Alto Adige, is a province in northeast Italy. It includes part of the Dolomites range, with limestone summits like the Three Peaks of Lavaredo and many other major summits and cliffs.

description

South Tyrol is a highly mountainous region and thus also offers endless climbing possibilities.

You can choose between vast, warm valleys, full of apple trees, wine and even palm trees, where you might experience an almost Mediterranean feeling. On the other side, South Tyrol also has a wilder, more rugged, but equally impressive side: the impressive Dolomites, Alpine flora with some of the highest peaks in the Eastern Alps such as the Ortler. In between, there are high-Alpine pastures, deep valleys, earth pyramids, crystal clear lakes, roaring waterfalls and endless cliffs. Make your pick!

The climbing region on theCrag isn't completely identical with the Italian province as parts here are listed within the Dolomites region and Bormio area, too.

See and edit Dolomites here.

1.2.1. Val Pusteria 396 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.904492, 11.905240

1.2.2. Höhlensteintal 358 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.670489, 12.245972

summary

Höhlensteintal (Val di Landro) is is a side valley of the Puster Valley in South Tyrol, Italy. It hosts several crags in breathtaking scenery.

approach

Enter the Landro valley from Dobbiaco (Toblach) and follow the river Rienz.

1.2.3. Val d'Isarco 213 routes in Region

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.844410, 11.437594

summary

The Valle Isarco connects the Stubai Alps with the Dolomites.

description

The valley of the Isarco (Eisack) river stretches from Brenner Pass southwards down to its confluence with the Adige near Bolzano. The upper valley north of Franzensfeste is also known as Wipptal.

1.2.4. Zona Merano e Val Venosta 919 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.671514, 10.853087

1.2.5. Zona Bolzano e Bassa atesina 483 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.533385, 11.356906

summary

As a major regional city, Bolzano/Bozen has an extraordinary variety of climbing on different rock types within a 30-45 minute drive of the centre of town.

1.2.6. Dolomiti di Braies 218 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.666892, 12.067330

1.2.7. Alpe di Siusi / Seiser Alm 5 routes in Area

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.516640, 11.560685

summary

Rugged alpine climbing on inspiring faces and towers

description

Mountains and ski resort, a part of Süd Tirol / Alto Adige and hence most places have an Italian and a German name

approach

Buses run regularly from Bolzano / Bozen to Siusi / Seis. Expansive network of signposted trails to huts and often to the starts of routes.

where to stay

Siusi / Seis. Town and ski resort with options ranging from B&Bs and luxury hotels for accommodation.

1.2.8. Val Gardena 114 routes in Region

Summary:
Bouldering, Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.571972, 11.686722

1.2.9. Puez-Odle 44 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.589595, 11.815431

1.2.10. Gruppo di Fanes 392 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 46.586969, 11.972366

1.2.11. Gruppo del Sassolungo 244 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 46.517598, 11.728796

description

The Langkofel Group (German: Langkofelgruppe) is a massif in the (western) Dolomites. It separates Gröden (to the north) and the Fassa valley (to the south), as well as the Sella massif (to the east) and the Rosengarten (to the west). Northwest of the Langkofel is the Seiser Alm. The highest point in the range is the eponymous Langkofel with a height of 3181 metres. Taken together, the summits of the Langkofel form an arc which is only open towards the northwest. Within this arc there is only one small mountain, the Langkofelkarspitze, so that the group surrounds a kind of "inner courtyard".

approach

Coming from the north on the A22 take the exit "Val Gardena - Klausen - Gröden". Follow the signs to Val Gardena until you reach Selva (1620m, German: Wolkenstein) after 50 minutes. Then drive to the Passo Sella (2240m). Short before and below the pass, behind the Passo Sella Dolomiti Mountain Resort you may park on a big parking lot.

where to stay

  • Rifugio Toni Demetz
  • Rifugio Vicenza (German: Langkofelhütte)
  • Rifugio Carlo Valentini
  • Rifugio Salei Di Monteleone S.N.C.
  • Rifugio Friedrich August
  • Rifugio Micheluzzi
  • Rifugio Sasso Piatto
  • Passo Sella Dolomiti Mountain Resort (former Rifugio Passo Sella)

1.2.12. Gruppo del Sella 249 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.518742, 11.813286

1.2.13. Val di Fassa 28 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 46.443912, 11.698251

1.2.14. Sottosassa 0 routes in Crag

summary

A fascinating crag along the orographic right of the Travignolo river. Climbing is characterise by cracks and vertical, smooth plates which require crack skills and strength and resistance of fingers.

approach

Drive to Val di Fiemme using SS48 coming from Val d-Adige (Ora), along the SS612 coming from Val di Cembra, or the SP71 coming from Valfloriana or along the SS50 coming from Primiero - Passo Rolle. From Predazzo (Pardatsch) briefly follow the road of Passo Rolle (SS50) and abandon it near a large open space (often used as storage area for logs) to follow a forest road (on the right) which heads towards Val Travgnolo (campsite indications). Drive past the campsite, cross a stone bridge and leave your car at the parking lot on the left.

1.2.15. Passo Rolle 0 routes in Crag

summary

This crag is located just next to the road on Passo Rolle (Rollpass). An excellent crag for hot days in summer.

description

This crag also offers a great view of the Cimon della Pala, one of the most photographed peaks in the Dolomites.

approach

Drive into Val di Fiemme through the SS48 coming from Val d-Adige (Ora), along the SS612 coming from Val di Cembra, for the SP71 coming from Valfloriana or along the SS50 coming from Primiero - Passo Rolle. From Predazzo take and follow the SS50 of Passo Rolle until you reach the pass where there are several parking possibilities.

From the Bar Albergo Vezzana take the trail that continues behind the building. In 3 minutes you are under the cliff.

1.2.16. Bilico 3 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.230381, 11.875955

summary

A crag high up in Val Canali in the Italian Dolomites, not far from Primiero.

1.2.17. Val Noana 0 routes in Crag

1.2.18. Innerfeld 38 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.673208, 12.298123

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