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Take path no. 542 from Rifugio Re Alberto (some short aided sections). Go to the base of the Towers and go up the gully/couloir that divides the Torre Piaz from Torre Delago. Climb until you reach a small platform at the saddle between the two towers. This is where you start the route (40 m, I/II, 1 piton + cemented ring).

1st pitch: Climb vertically until you reach a mini-cave and pass it on the left (piton), and continue along a vertical stretch of whitish rock (nail). Move to the right for a few meters, then return to the left until you reach the edge of the corner where you stop. (30 m, IV+, 3 pitons)

2nd pitch: The most beautiful point of the route. Belay stance, go around the corner to the left, looking out over the valley below in an impressive way. Climb the vertical arete (piton) on small and somewhat polished holds. After about ten meters, return to the right of the arete. Scramble up some easy blocks you reach a small ledge. Follow a not-so obvious crack above it until you reach a ledge with the belay stance. (30m, IV, 3 pitons)

3rd pitch: Climb the dihedral staying just to the right of the arete (2 close pitons). Then, a leaning ramp leads to a small ledge where the belay is located. (25 m, IV, 2 pitons, lots of fixed slings)

4th pitch: Go diagonally to the right, following bladey bits of rock. Go up a whitish slab, up through a chimney until you reach the easy ridge that leads to the summit. You can divide the pitch by stopping before the white slab. (50m, IV, 1 piton)

Descent: The main abseil descent is on the the north-east face, possible to merge abseils with double ropes.

  1. 33m, vertically in the notch between the Delago and Stabeler towers up to a huge boulder wedged between the two towers;

  2. 20m, descending into the canal, spectacular double with stretches in the void, ring on Torre Delago;

  3. 20m, descending again along the narrow channel there is a ring on the Stabeler Tower;

  4. 20m, still in the canal, approaching the base of the Stabeler tower, the ring is located on a comfortable terrace.

  5. 30m, down to the ground.

From here, follow the trail back down to Rifugio Re Alberto.

Route history

1911First ascent: G.Battista/F.Jori/I.Glaser

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: 46.46096, 11.62432

Grade citation

4+ Assigned grade
4+

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 89 from 25 ratings.

Difficulty - 4+

Soft Touch
Easy
Average
Hard
Sandbag

Based on 3 ratings.

Suggested Grade

4+

Based on 3 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 10
Flash 1
Tick 10

Comment keywords

classic beautiful amazing awesome super fantastic incredible polished arete

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Ivo Rabanser

Date: 2022

Author(s): Guido Colombetti

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9788855470599

A selective guidebook describing 105 different sport climbing crags throughout the whole of the Dolomites area, covering the best of the low-level sport climbing across the region, including both single and multi-pitch routes.

Author(s): Gruppo Scoiattoli

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9791280483096

A comprehensive guidebook covering the sport climbing found around Cortina in the heart of the Dolomites, describing over 1,000 mainly single pitch sport routes at 28 crags, including Cinque Torri, Crepe de Oucera and Landro.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Thu 20 Apr
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