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Weißer Pfeiler

  • Grade context: FR
  • Ascents: 1
  • Aka: The White Pillar
  • Aka: Pilastro Bianco
1
FR
4b+

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Description

The smaller of the two pillars on the northeast face of Sassolungo.

A lovely climbing area - the only downside is the fact that you finish in the middle of nowhere ... on an ocean of rock.

Approach

Park near the Passo Sella Hotel located in Val Gardena. Take the hiking trail no. 526 (red/white) which crosses the "Città dei Sassi" and then runs along the base of the north face of Sassolungo. After an area of slabs (before reaching the rifugio Emilio Comici) a large yellow pillar stands out, the Pilastro Paolina. To the left of this, much smaller, there is the Pilastro Bianco.

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Routes

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Grade Route
1 5 50m
2 5 45m
3 4 40m
4 4 40m
5 3+ 40m
6 5- 40m
7 4- 40m

From far away, you can spot the start of route by finding: a) the circular black hole in the wall then b) up to the right, another black mark on the wall then c) down to the right, the starting boulder with the permanent snowfield to the right of the boulder.

At the base of the cliff, above the boulder is the start of the route (1 piton with fixed cord). If you start from the ground, P1 is approx. 55m. Otherwise, scramble to the top of the boulder (recommended so that your gear doesn't get wet in the afternoon snowmelt)

  1. Climb the slab, wandering a little L and R to find gear and the bolts. Go up to the small ledge with the anchor (2 bolts + cord + quick link). 9 bolts.

  2. Go up briefly on the slab, then move to the right. Soon afterwards, move to the left, following the crack all the way to a ledge where you find the belay. There is an abseil anchor 10m to right of the climbing anchor do not use this (2 bolts + cord + quick link). 4 bolts, 4 pitons.

  3. Sharply diagonally to the left around the base of the small column, then up into the gully (initially crumbly), which goes up and slightly to the right. Some stemming an another bolt leads you to the belay, on top of a small pillar, vertically above the last anchor (1 bolt + 1 piton + cord + rings). 1 bolt.

  4. Go up vertically from the belay, cross an overhang and continue to the next belay (2 bolts + rope + quick link). 3 bolts, 1 fixed sling.

  5. Continue slightly diagonally to the right, aiming for a mini-cave with a yellowish overhang, under which find the anchor. (2 bolts + cord + quick link). 3 fixed slings.

  6. Move 2m to the right, and go up the improbably easy overhang. Easier climbing leads to the next anchor (3 bolts + 1 hourglass + cord + quick link) 1 bolt, 1 piton, 2 fixed slings.

  7. Go slightly to the right, around the final overhang, then continue vertically up to the anchor on top of the White Pillar (2 pitons + cord + abseil rings). 1 fixed sling.

Descent:
Abseil the route, using the anchors. (1h-1h30) Many of the 40m pitches are possible to abseil on a 70m rope with rope stretch, as the route zig-zags a lot. For pitch 1 & 2 which are very vertical, a 50m pull-cord or second rope is necessary.

For pitches 6 & 7 a single rope is recommended to avoid the rope getting stuck. Be very careful, there are lots of horns/features to trap your rope!

FA: E. Cipriani & G.Vidali, 1991

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