Access issues inherited from Rocca di Perti

Per ulteriori informazioni riguardo all’accesso ai settori, ove non indicata alcuna descrizione, vi invitiamo a consultare:



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Grade Route
1 2b 35m
2 2b 35m
3 2c 30m
4 3b 30m
5 3b 10m
6 3b 30m

Unknown 1928, A. Grillo, A. Casula, M. Diracca 1970

1 5a 20m
2 5b 20m
3 4c 10m
4 3c 20m

FA: 1976

1 6a 20m
2 6a 20m

F. Menardi, L. Pizzorni 1984

1 5a 10m
2 5c 30m
3 4b 6m

Set: L.Pizzorni & M.Scotto, 1978

1 5b 25m
2 6b 20m
3 6c 25m
1 5c 20m
2 5c 20m
3 5b 30m
4 6a 30m
5 4c 30m

S. Casaleggio, W. Savio 1977

1 6b+ 25m
2 7a 15m
3 6b+ 50m
1 6c 20m
2 7a+ 20m
3 6a 35m
1 7a+ 25m
2 7a 20m
1 5c 20m
2 6a 25m
3 5c 25m
4 6b+ 25m
5 6a 25m
6 5c 25m

F. Leardi, L. Tomei 1977 (6a/A0 obbl.)

1 6b+ 35m
2 6b 35m

Uscita diretta 7a

1 6b 30m
2 5c 30m
3 6a 30m
4 6a+ 40m

A. Parodi, F. Ferraresi 1982

1 5c 30m
2 6a 10m
3 5c 25m
4 5c 30m
5 5b 35m

P. Sicuri, L. Pizzorni 1979 (6a/A0 obbl.) From the second anchor it is possible to take a 7a variant

1 6a+ 40m
2 6c 30m

N. Ivaldo, R. Armando 1985

1 6b 30m
2 6a 25m
3 6b+ 30m
4 6c 25m
5 6b 30m
6 3a 10m

V. Savio 2012

1 7a 20m
2 7a 25m

The route starts from the second anchor of "L'altra faccia del vecchio"

1 5c 30m
2 5a 25m
3 4c 10m
4 5c 30m
5 3a 15m
6 4c 20m

A. Antola, A. Bottino, F. Ferraresi, L. Boni 1979

1 6c 25m
2 6b+ 35m
1 6a 25m
2 6b 20m
3 6a 25m
4 5c 20m
5 5c 15m
6 5b 20m
7 6a 15m
8 6a 10m

A. Piccinino, G. Perotto, L. Pizzorni, 1980

First Pitch of "Quattro passi nel fantastico"

  1. 30m (6a) Starts overhanging into a dihedral with a finger crack. At first straight up then slightly left. Always follow the old bolts. When protection is missing the route is getting easier.

  2. 30m (4b) Very nice crack. Straight up. Leave the belay anchors to your right and follow the old bolts.

  3. 30m (5c) The traverse. At first left up then just to the left. Pass the anchor of 'Gold Finger' until you cross 'Chiodi di garofano'.

  4. 30m (5a) Straight upwards. The belay is at a tree which is protected by a dwarf that overlooks the area from its cave.

  5. 30m (4c) Up and then to the right. Follow the vegetated ramp to the top.

FFA: A. Casula, A. Grillo & V. Simonetti, 1973

1 3c 35m
2 5c 30m
3 5c 25m

S. Casaleggio, F. Dotti 1978

1 5c 20m
2 5c 30m
3 5c 20m
4 5b 20m

A. Piccinini, L. Pizzorni, M. Rivarola, M. Scotto 1980

1 5c 25m
2 6a 25m
3 6b 30m

L. Guastavino &C. 1983

1 5c 20m
2 5c 30m
3 5c 15m
4 3a 15m
5 5c 30m
6 5b 20m
7 5b 30m

E. Berruti, G.L. Grillo, L. Pizzorni, M. Rivola 1982

1 6a 20m
2 6c 20m

D. Berruto, M. Frigo, M. Zambarino 1986

1 6a 20m
2 6a 20m

Set: R.Prina & L.Giorgi, 1987

1 6b+ 15m
2 6a 20m
3 6b 20m
4 5b 20m
5 5c 15m
6 6b 20m

D. De Cicco 1986

1 6a+ 15m
2 4c 10m
3 6a 15m
4 6b+ 15m

Rollo&Rallo Team 2010

1 5a 25m
2 3a 20m
3 5a 30m
4 4b 20m
5 5c 20m
6 4a 15m
7 4b 20m

From the anchor of the "variante alla Simonetta" it goes straight through the ceiling

Hard over the last bulge.

Three bulges on the way to the top. Second is the crux.

Hard vertical start, finish on slab.

Second pitch; it starts from the second anchor of "Elena"

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Marco “Thomas” Tomassini

Date: 2022

ISBN: 9788855470834

Finale ist ein besonderer und magischer Ort: wild, rau, landschaftlich einfach außergewöhnlich - und eines der bekanntesten und besten Klettergebiete überhaupt. Über 200 Sektoren und mehr als 4000 Routen - Kletterstoff für Jahre.

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