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M
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Description

Multipitch slab climbing on granite rising directly out of the canyon. For topo see http://www.campingacquafraggia.com/boggia_en.html

Access issues inherited from Val Bodengo

From Chiavenna, go south some km to Gordona and follow the sign to Val Bodengo. You need a permit to access the most part of the road. This permit (6 €, 2013) can be obtained from some of the wayside bars and restaurants(Al Crot, Dunaviv)

Approach

Drive up the Valley of Bodengo. After passing a small chappel on the left, the road leads straight through the slabs. Continue for another 200 m where you can park the car. Walk back and rappel off the rails (3 X 60 m or 6 x 30 m). Use the second (down-valley) anchors, unless you want to climb the left routes - the left abseil is quite traversing and walking in the river is not that easy. You need to climb out or have some canyoning skills!

Descent notes

Well, climb out.

Routes

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Grade Route

(6b obl.) Left of main slab, does not end at the railing but in the trees

Leftmost route on the main slab; ends at the most upvalley anchors on the railing. It may be necessary to cross running water in the second pitch.

FFA: P. Brunner & R. Bähler, 2001

(6b obl.) branches off Nuovo Cinema Paradiso in its second pitch to the right

(5b obl.)

(5c obl.)Same start as Paradisdican but straight up

(6b obl.) Same start as Paradisdican but trails right

(6b+ obl.)

start as Pochi é Bello, then goes right.Crosses Pochi é Bello at last anchors.

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