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Access issues inherited from Arco - Trento Area

Many crags in the area of Arco are located on private land and the huge popularity of climbing and the resulting crowds brought it with it, that issues with land owners popped up in the past and continue to pop up from time to time. Please be sensitive to regional closures and limitations to access. Stay informed and stick to local regulations.

Routes

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Grade Route
1 5 20m
2 5 30m
3 2 10m
4 6- 30m

Bolts and rock tunnels, some frineds and slings are recommended two sequences with VI option to add another pitch with two versions (right: nice groove, left: hard and very alpine bolted groove, but nice climb! Mind the rope drag, use super long slings) http://www.klettern-sarcatal.com/linda.htm

https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettern/via-linda-arco/

FA: Franz und Martin Heiß, Heinz Grill & Jänner, Jan 2016

1 6 20m
2 6 30m
3 5 45m
4 5+ 35m
5 5+ 35m

Bolts, rock tunnels and trees Some slings and friends are recommended two little overhangs are rated with VI http://www.klettern-sarcatal.com/elda.htm

S3/R1 https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettern/via-elda-arco/

FA: Dario Cabas, Pierangelo Masera & Demis Arlnach, Nov 2013

1 4 25m
2 6 30m
3 6+ 35m
4 2 25m
5 6 25m
6 5+ 25m
7 7 30m

'Via Elda' crosses at the last pitch.

Set: Heinz Grill, Florian Kluckner & Klaus Oppermann, 1 May 2015

1 6 25m
2 5+ 35m
3 6 30m
4 5 30m
5 5+ 25m
6 6 30m
7 6+ A0 35m

Set: Franz Heiß, Heinz Grill & Florian Kluckner, Mar 2017

1 5+ 20m
2 6+ 35m
3 6 40m
4 5 20m
5 6 20m
6 6 30m
7 7 A0 30m
8 6+ 30m

Crosses 'Via Lecciomania' twice.

Set: Heinz Grill, Florian Kluckner, Peter Maier & Julia Haupt, Dec 2016

1 5 25m
2 5+ 30m
3 6+ 25m
4 5 50m
5 7 A0 20m
6 6+ 25m
7 6 15m
8 6 15m

In memory of Dario Cabas who died in 2015. Same third pitch as Via Nicol.

Set: Florian Kluckner, Heinz Grill, Peter Maier, Julia Haupt & Sandra Schieder, Jan 2018

The route has been equipped from the top and the bolt placements are not optimal. Not recommended route.

Set: Dario Cabas & Pierangelo Masera, 2013

1 3+
2 4
3 4
4 4
5 4
6 5+

A few pitons and some rope tied through rock tunnels. Each belay has 1 bolt + a tree or rock tunnel. No trad gear needed except extra slings, but a few medium/large nuts would reduce the often long run-outs.

FA: D. Cabas, P. Masera & G. Gerola, May 2012

1 3+
2 4
3 6-
4 4
5 4
6 5+

This variation goes direct through roof/corner system on P3 (protected by new-ish looking piton).

A few pitons and some rope tied through rock tunnels. Each belay has 1 bolt + a tree or rock tunnel. No trad gear needed except extra slings, but a few medium/large nuts would reduce the often long run-outs.

To find the start: Park at the Pizzeria Lanterna (and grab a beer there after) and head S on the road ~150 m until you see a path. Then head up and to the left until you hit the wall, then head left. The route is after Caldo Inverno and La Cengia Rossa and the scrambly start is marked in red and black paint.

1 6a 25m
2 5b 20m
3 6a 45m
4 5c 35m
5 3 15m
6 5b 25m
7 5b 20m

FA: H. Grill, F. Kluckner & F. Heiss, 2012

Nice pitch starting on tufas to the right of the top of La Cengia Rossa.

nice climb on east PArete San Paolo side - avoid during summer morning/midday!!! all spit, some clepsydras

FA: D. Cabas, P. Masera, H. Grill, F. Kluckner & K. Oppermann, 2012

1 4c
2 6a
3 5b
4 4b
5 4c
6 5b
7 5c - 6a

Schöne abwechslungsreiche Route. Einstieg links der Galliope. In blau angeschrieben. Zusätzliche Absicherung mit Friends 0,75, 1, 2 gut möglich. Die letzten beiden SL kann man auch zu einer zusammenfassen.

FA: 2017

FA: 2017

1 4 20m
2 5+ 40m
3 5+ 30m
4 4+ 30m
5 5+ 20m
6 4+ 50m

a mix of bolts and rock tunnels and a few pegs for protection at moderate distances. bring only quickdraws. the last long pitch can be split by building an anchor at a solid tree in case you don't want to deal with too much rope drag.

1 6
2 6
3 5
4 6+
5 6
6 6
7 6
8 5

This route has multiple variants. A newer, direct start (first 2 pitches further left) and a newer, direct exit (replacing the 4 last pitches with 2 that continue directly from the ledge instead of going right). Number of pitches and grades are for the original route.

Set: Pierangelo Masera, Dario Cabas & Heinz Grill, 2008

1 7 30m
2 7 30m
3 5+ 30m
4 7 25m
5 2 15m
6 6+ 20m
7 5 35m
8 7 15m

There is a variant for pitch 1 in 8 to the left.

Set: Andreas Salomon & Peter Göpel, 2009

1 6 40m
2 6 30m
3 6 25m
4 6 35m
5 5 40m
6 5 20m
7 5+ 35m
8 4+ 25m
9 6+ 35m

Some friends recommended. Crosses Via Lanterna at top of pitch 4.

Set: Heinz Grill, Sigrid Königseder, Florian Kluckner & Martin Mocek, 2007

1 4
2 6+
3 6
4 5
5 6
6 6
7 6+
8 1
9 5+
10 7 A0
11 6+

Set: Heinz Grill, F. Kluckner & A. Kluckner, 2006

1 5+ 35m
2 6 20m
3 6+ 30m
4 6 20m
5 6+ 35m
6 5 25m
7 6 35m
8 5 40m
9 5 30m

Set: Heinz Grill, Florian Kluckner & Franz Heiss, 2007

1 6b
2 6b+
3 6a+
4 6a
5 6c+
6 6c
7 5+
8 6b

6b obl.

Set: Guiseppe Mantovani, 2006

1 6b+ 25m
2 6b 20m
3 6b+ 25m
4 7b A1 25m
5 6a+ 15m
6 6b+ 40m
7 5a 20m

6b obl. (1 passage in 7b or A1).

Set: Hannes Schnitzer, Leo Breitenberger, Markus Holzer & Markus Huber, 2010

1 6+
2 6+
3 5+
4 7+ A0
5 7 A0
6 5+
7 6+
8 5+
9 5+

Set: Heinz Grill & Franz Heiss, 2007

1 5+ 32m
2 6- 40m
3 6 35m
4 5+ 35m
5 5 25m
6 6- 20m
7 5+ 32m
8 5+ 28m

Set: Heinz Grill, Florian Kluckner, Andrea Kluckner & Sigrid Königseder, 2007

1 5c
2 6b+
3 6c
4 5a
5 6a
6 3
7 5b

Set: H. Grill & F. Kluckner, 2007

1 6 30m
2 7 35m
3 7 25m
4 7 30m
5 7 40m
6 6 20m
7 7+ A0 30m
8 5+ 15m

Set: Werner Mairösl, Hannes Schnitzer, Josef Fischer & Markus Huber, 2008

FA: Grill, Kluckner & Heiß, 2006

Set: Grill, Kluckner & Heiß, 2006

1 6c+
2 6a+
3 6b+
4 6a+
5 5b
6 6b+
7 5a
8 6c

Set: H. Schnitzer, S. Fischer, M. Huber & L. Brietenberger, 2009

1 6a
2 5c
3 5c
4 6a
5 6a+
6 6a
7 5a

Set: Giuseppe Mantovani, 2003

Leads into Via Concordia.

Set: Giuseppe Mantovani, 2004

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