Routes in Cala Goloritze (Aguglia)

As of October 2023, the anchors and some of the bolts have been replaced. The route now has 5 pitches, pitches 3 and 4 (as listed in our guidebook) have been replaced by a total of three pitches with anchors in different places. The route starts with two overhanging pitches (6b+, 6c+) with excellent gym-like protection. The route then goes up and left, over a bulge and then up and right through a slab with many good holds, the bolts are a bit further apart (6a+). From the next anchor, go up and left to reach another bulge and then a slab which is a bit more difficult than the previous pitch and which does have some larger distances between the bolts (6b). The next anchor is quite far to the right and not in line with the original route according to the guidebook. For the original route, traverse left from the anchor and then go up to reach a bolt which is quite far up - this is a no fall zone with the current protection, but the climbing is also not hard. After the bolt, the protection is better all the way to the top (6a). Alternatively, you can go slightly right and then straight up from the anchor. This is the last pitch (6c) of 'L'Orsetto Lavatore e il suo Compare', and the recommended way to reach the top.

P1 (6a): Climb up for a few meters on semi polished holds, then traverse up and right to the anchors (not many bolts)

P2 (6b+): Climb slightly right then up through the roof, making a few cool moves, after the roof it's a bit wandery, make your way to the semi-hanging belay.

P3 (6b): Start left of the belay, then follow the bolts up and slightly right, technical climbing finishing with a few steps to a ledge.

P4 (6a): Move either straight up for a more challenging start, or start right on a jug rail.

P5 (5c): Move left and up from the belay, a few technical moves and exposed climbing, crux protected by rusty pin (watch your leader, ledge fall potential if the pin rips), bolt just after.