Exposed and very scenic climb up the less frequented side of Pedra Longa. The route is quite new, sharp and partially you find loose holds. Completely bolted every (2)-3-4m plus chains with ring, but avoid uncontrolled falls (sharp rock). After the traverse pitches, the line is very straight up. Two longer moves (prob. the crux sequences) can be A0-ed (6a obbl.). Retreat difficult (possibly by boat).
Approach: (similar to Cromosomi Corsari) take a path from the restaurant parking to the southern side of Pedra Longa, a little exposed, following the base of a wall. When a pillar splits from the right end of the wall, go left (between the wall and pillar) to find a single bolt for the rappel (27m). !!be very cautious, lots of loose blocks in sandy wall, absolutely dangerous below!!
Climb: Start from almost sea level following the bolts strictly to the right, not up (this is Cromosomi Corsari). Nice exposed traverse for 2 pitches. The water is loud here, maybe bring a walkie talkie. Pitches 3 to 5 bring you almost to the top of the leaning tower, the rock here is still very sharp and partly loose although a lot of the wall was obviously cleared before bolting. The pitches are short and communication should be no problem. The rock quality is getting better and especially the crux pitch offers nice exposed climbing, partially on the edge. From there, reach the summit in 1-2 Pitches.
Descend: follow the tracks of the via normale to the north until some very exposed ridge/ the most northern point, climb down left and follow a slightly ascending band back southwards (without rope or maybe short-roping). Find a rappel anchor under a red overhanging wall or downclimb 15m. From there just follow the path through the scalette sector. 30-50min
FA: Devis Bono & Stefano Perrone, 2020