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Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
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D

Approach

Park in front of the restaurant and walk down the stone stairs towards the coast. The sector is on your right.

Routes

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Grade Route
1 5b 30m
2 5c 20m
3 6a 35m
4 5a 35m
5 6a+ 30m
6 5c+ 20m
7 5c 20m
1 5c+
2 6a+/b
3 6b
4 4c
5 5b
6 6b
7 6b+

Super exposed multipitch above the sea. Very atmospheric, especially the traverse pitch! Average quality rock but extremely well bolted. Supposedly climbable at only 6a+ obligatory grade, but a hold seems to have broken at the crux of the last pitch (probably 6c and not easily escapable).

To access the climb, park at the main Pedra Longa carpark. Take the climbers' path through the bushes opposite the restaurant. Walk (exposed) for about 5-10 minutes in the direction of the main Pedra Long crag until you see a rocky inlet and the crag opposite. Here a rappel (1 bolt with maillon) takes you all the way to the bottom of the inlet (about 25m). At high tide you may need to quit the rappel a bit higher (15m-ish) and then scramble across at the level of some bushes until you can reach the second bolt of P1 on a small ledge.

P1: Traverse and small corner. P2: Corner and featured slab. P3: Exposed traverse. P4: Rambly choss. Be careful. Loose rock here has already caused one accident. P5: More rambly choss. P6: Traverse and a bit of steepness. P7: Technical grey wall.

To descend, prepare for a long and at times exposed scramble. From the last anchor, head left past a large standing boulder. An extra belay is possible just a little further on a small boulder and juniper to bring up the other climber from the final anchor if required. Now continue past this juniper along a path of black earth leading out onto the ridge line of the cliff. Follow the signs of passage and polished rocks on the ground. Near the end of the ridge an easy downclimb is required to your left. After this, head towards the left following the path that seems most trodden. A bit more scrambling and downclimbing will eventually take you down to a larger open space, from which the rest of the path is clear. Count 45-60 minutes for the descent.

FA: M Oviglia & F Erriu, 2014

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