A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Melwin Quacke Paul Badenoch leonardo albani Ruben @j0da P. S Patrick Rudigier Alexander Oppe Cesare Nobili Giacomo Togn
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1.
Sasso Bianco
47 in Crag
- 1.1. Sasso del Dormiglione 6 in Sector
- 1.2. Settore Centrale 32 in Sector
- 1.3. Sasso Marrone 4 in Sector
- 2. Index by grade
1. Sasso Bianco 47 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 46.307412, 9.404760
summary
Granite slabs with beautiful view into the valley
description
Classic crag in the valley with mainly slabs on south-exposed granite. Single to dual-pitch routes with good to excellent protection. Topo under http://www.campingacquafraggia.com/sassobianco_en.html
approach
From Chiavenna, go south to Prata Camportaccio. There, turn left, cross the railway and navigate uphill through small streets towards the church. Continue uphill towards Lottano for ~ 1 km (don't cross the stream).You will pass directly below the crag and will see the first bolts from the car. Small parking pullout.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
4 | Sperone | 6a | 50m, 2 | |||
5 | ★★ Zio Barbon | 5b | 50m, 2 | |||
6 | Panzeri | 5c | 45m, 2 | |||
7 | ★ Diedrini | 5c | 40m, 2 | |||
8 | ★ Sotto il Tetto | 5a | 25m |
1.1. Sasso del Dormiglione 6 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
description
Left (uphill) small buttress directly next to road.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ 1
easy slab to final corner | 5c | 15m | |||
2 | ★ 2 | 4b | 15m | |||
3 | 3 | 7a | 15m | |||
4 |
Fessura del dormiglione
crack | 6b | 15m | |||
5 | Celestina | 7c+ | 15m | |||
6 | ★ Fessura | 4c | 15m |
1.2. Settore Centrale 32 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
description
Main sector
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Sperone | {US} FR:6a | 50m, 2 | |||
2 |
Placca
Joins anchors of first pitch of Sperone | 6b | 25m | |||
3 | Zio Barbon | {US} FR:5b | 50m, 2 | |||
4 | ★ Marta | 6b | 25m | |||
5 |
Accidenti ai denti
crack | {US} FR:6b+ | 60m, 2 | |||
6 |
Atacco diretto
short vertical wall | 6a+ | 10m | |||
7 |
Panzeri
start at tiny cave, than traverse right | 5c | 45m, 2 | |||
8 |
★★ Alfredo
starts with Panzeri, then straight up | 6a+ | 50m, 2 | |||
9 |
★ Aderonza
startwith Panzeri, then keep on right side of slab | 6a | 55m | |||
10 |
★ Spigulino
straight up arete | 6a+ | 25m | |||
11 | ★★ Fessura del lavoro | 5c | 50m | |||
12 | Normale | 4c | 40m, 2 | |||
13 | ★★ Diedrini | 5c | 40m, 2 | |||
14 | Trapano | 6a+ | 35m | |||
15 | Via Dotto | 6a+ | 40m, 2 | |||
16 |
Viria
starting at anchors above roof | 6b+ | 25m | |||
17 |
Magia Nera
starting at anchors above roof | 6c | 25m | |||
18 |
★ Gatto Silvestro
starting at anchors above roof | 6c+ | 25m | |||
19 | ★ Sotto il tetto | 5a | 25m | |||
20 |
Parnassius
just right of big brow | 6b+ | 40m | |||
21 |
★★ Via dei Gufi
between brow and prow to anchors, then left along crack and up | 6a | 65m, 3 | |||
22 | ★★★ Tuchetitet | 6a+ | 40m | |||
23 | Tienanmen | 6c | 25m | |||
24 | ★★ Alessandro Magno | 6b | 30m | |||
25 |
★ Come il Castagno
to same anchors as Essebis | 6c+ | 25m | |||
26 | ★ Essebis | 6a | 25m | |||
27 | Athos | 6a+ | 25m | |||
28 | ★ Athos diretto | 6b+ | 25m | |||
29 |
Lilly
to top anchors of Calypso | 6c+ | 25m | |||
30 |
★★ Lamette
joins first anchors of Calypso | 6c | 15m | |||
31 | ★★★ Calypso | 6b | 30m, 2 | |||
32 | ★★★ Arcobaleno | 6c+ | 20m |
1.3. Sasso Marrone 4 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
description
Right (downhill) small buttress directly next to road.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Ala sinistra | 5c | 10m | |||
2 |
Il diverso
crack at top | 6a+ | 10m | |||
3 | Ala destra | 5a | 10m | |||
4 | Guardalinee | 5b | 10m |