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Summary

World-class limestone crag with every type of climbing you could possibly ask for. The long and interesting routes on cliffs by the sea are unique in offering grades of every dfficulty from 2a to 9a

Description

Main overview

San Vito Lo Capo is by far the most popular climbing area in Sicily with more than 1200 routes. The routes are very well bolted, and while there were problems with it's quality in the past, nearly all have been rebolted with high quality material.

The climbing season here is from October to May, in the summer it gets too hot. Conditions are usually very good for climbing, but they vary day to day - sometimes humid, sometimes rainy, and on another day the wind can be so strong that it makes it hard to climb.

The rock is limestone in all shapes and forms, featuring big overhanging walls, slabs, caves, tufas, jugs, crimps.

Guidebooks

Sicily-Rock (which covers only San Vito) is the main guidebook here and it gets regularly updated. It's available for purchase in the El Bahira camping.

There is also a guidebook La Roccia di Sole (which covers the whole Sicily), but the last edition was released in 2015, and it's not available anywhere for purchase anyway.

Last but not least, theCrag information is very well maintained here and you will find plenty of topos

Equipment needed

The minumum needed is a 60m rope and 15 quickdraws as that's sufficient for most routes here, but it's better to bring a 70m rope and 18 quickdraws so that you can climb almost everything.

Route character
Majority is single pitch sport climbing, although there are few routes separated in two pitches. If you are a fan of trad climbing or long climbs over 100m long, check out Monte Monaco which has many routes that go to it's top.

Rest day tips

  • Erice - nice historical village with great view
  • Zingaro national park - ideal for hiking or staying on a beach, but as of 2020 still closed due to a local fire
  • Monte Monaco - if you won't climb on it via one of the multipitches, why not do a hike to the top?
  • Monte Cofano* - a very nice hike to top with amazing views. It's also possible to do a round trip around the mountain.
  • Hot springs - they are a bit further from San Vito, but definitely worth it. For free.
  • Palermo - nice city centre if you have the driver skills to survive getting through the traffic. And if you realize there that you don't want to rest you can do some great climbing nearby at Monte Pellegrino.
  • Tempio di Segesta - ancient temple and archeological area
  • Monreale - historic town near Palermo with a famous cathedral

Access issues

To access some sectors you need to cross fences used for cattle - be careful to not damage the fences

Approach

closest airports are in Palermo and Trapani.

To get to San vito, best way is to rent car, although buses also exist (timetables ). Some accomodations may offer you transport from the airport.

Once you get to San Vito, to most climbing areas you can easily get by foot especially if you stay at the El Bahira camping, although it's recommended to rent a car for shopping and trips on rest days. It's possible to rent bikes at El Bakira

Where to stay

The camping El Bahira is right under the main cliff and offers a special discount for climbers in the climbing season. Staying in a tent is a decent cheap option here, as you have access to use the kitchen, showers and toilet.

There are also several guesthouses or airbnb's in San Vito and in Castelluzzo.

Ethic

As of 2020 it's forbidden to bolt new routes as re-bolting is still the main focus.

History

History timeline chart

Bolting started here around 2005. The main developers are Scott Titt, Josef Gstöttenmayr, Daniele Arena and Jim Titt

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