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Lionhead rock

  • Grade context: US
  • Photos: 5
  • Ascents: 1
  • Aka: 獅子岩
1
YDS
5.5

Seasonality

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Access issues inherited from Japan

Some spots have access issues as many spots near crowded places elsewhere. So please ensure you follow the recommendations of local climbers and behave responsibly.

Ethic inherited from Japan

There`s not a lot of information about climbing in Japan in English. Much of the information is only available in Japanese - or of course here on theCrag!

The Japan Free Climbing Association (http://freeclimb.jp/seibi/seibi.htm) is a good point of contact and there is a set of 5 guidebooks (all in Japanese) and an alpine guide book in English available covering all of Japan and its thousands of sport and trad routes and boulders.

http://www.yamakei.co.jp/products/2811180810.html

https://www.amazon.com/Classic-Alpine-Climbs-Japan-Climb-ebook/dp/B01ARU5KR0

Routes

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Grade Route

FA: Unknown

The route is often used to practice multi-pitch and abseiling. The left side can be done as 3 pitches and the right side can be done as 2 pitches.

Note: The gear is quite old with many pitons and rusty looking ring bolts. Some bolts have been chopped. Use slings around trees where appropriate. There are multiple sets of anchors along the wall and be careful of setting an american death triangle with the existing cord.

Pitch 1: 13m Easy slab climb heading towards the lion head

Pitch 2: 20m Easy slab climb heading towards the lion head

Pitch 3: 15m There are multiple ways to end the route and from left to right, it gets more difficult to climb over the bulge. You will get a good view of biwako from the top.

Descent: From the top of the lion head, head left. You will see a large rappel station with newer looking bolts. Continue walking straight for about 20m. Going down on the left side, you will see fixed rope and continue to follow a series of ropes for 15 min until to reach the base of the multi pitch. If you go down on the right side, the rope will take you to other single pitches.

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