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2
YDS
5.9

Seasonality

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Summary

Slab, pockets, and great overhangs all mixed into perfect pitches.

Description

Three main crags on Hachimenzen in Nakatsu, Kyushu. All sport routes with the exception of a few burly offwidths that nobody seems to climb. Mostly in the 5.10-5.11c range.

Access issues inherited from Japan

Some spots have access issues as many spots near crowded places elsewhere. So please ensure you follow the recommendations of local climbers and behave responsibly.

Approach

Top area: look for the climbers trail on the right side of the top-most hiking trail. Middle area: Look for the climbers trail on the left side of the Lake Trail. Lower area: Still can't find it, local beta is pretty scarce.

Where to stay

Camp pretty much anywhere on Hachimenzen, nobody cares.

Ethic

Do not litter or remove any fixed gear.

Routes

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Grade Route

Bottom is low-angled and is some easy lie-backing with smeared feet. One low crux with crimpy face climbing. Upper area requires some easy fist jamming and more smeared feet.

Short and bouldery. Easy if you are tall. Big mantle from a overhanging roof with small crimps. Bad bolt placements can make it a little dangerous.

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Activity

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