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YDS

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
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D

Description

Mostly winter alpine. Rock can be loose and not idea for summer.

Access issues inherited from Yatsugatake

There`s not a lot of information about in English on climbing in Japan. Much of the information is kept in personal blogs or is accessed through joining a climbing organization.

There are many many ice and apline routes in this area, many are docmented in guide books and well recognised, there are aslo many other routes not docmented well.

It would be best to speak to a local about other routes.

Ethic inherited from Japan

There`s not a lot of information about climbing in Japan in English. Much of the information is only available in Japanese - or of course here on theCrag!

The Japan Free Climbing Association (http://freeclimb.jp/seibi/seibi.htm) is a good point of contact and there is a set of 5 guidebooks (all in Japanese) and an alpine guide book in English available covering all of Japan and its thousands of sport and trad routes and boulders.

http://www.yamakei.co.jp/products/2811180810.html

https://www.amazon.com/Classic-Alpine-Climbs-Japan-Climb-ebook/dp/B01ARU5KR0

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route
1 1 120m
2 3+ 45m
3 2+ 40m
4 1 100m

Approach up the north ridge which steepens until you reach the first rock buttress. 2 pitches of mixed climbing (III+ and II+) with occasional bolts, final 100m steep snow pitch to the summit.

Long appraoch over Mt Tachiba 立場山. Past 4 peaks to the summit.

If using rope up the P3 gully, 1x 70m pitch will take you to a safe areas to build a belay, otherwise it could be possible to build a belay at 35m depending on snow and ice conditions.

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