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Ichinokura sawa Rock climbing 2 routes in crag

Grade context: US
Photos: 6
Ascents: 1
Aka: 一ノ倉沢

YDS

5.7 5.8

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Seasonality

Description

Loose, poorly protected, classic Japanese alpine routes

Access issues

Drive or train to 土合駅 doai station. You are supposed to have approval from the local police before climbing and submit a climbing plan prior to climbing.

Approach

2 hour hike along closed road from doai station 土合駅 until you reach ichinokura sawa river 一ノ倉沢. Follow the river until the waterfall, bypass the waterfall and scramble up the left side then 25m abseil back down. From here many of the routes start from the top of "tail ridge", a steep slippery potentially fatal solo approach ridge.

take care!

Ethic

Since The area is easy acces, it gets a lot of traffic for such a dangerous area. Bolts don't appear to be actively replaced and anchors are often dangerous.

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Routes

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1 4

2 4

3 2

4 3

5 3

6 4

7 5

One of the classic Japanese alpine routes. Loose rock, not much pro, lots of old rusty pitons, bad anchors. Top out with 200+m siun climbing then hike down, or rap 4-6 pitches down depending on anchor condition.

1 4 40m

2 3 25m

3 4 25m

4 5 25m

5 3 25m

6 4 40m

Another loose classic at Tanigawa. Starts from the top of Tail Ridge. If you with to top out, a final 150M of III simul climbing up grass / rock/ trees until the top of the "Bird`s Hat", rap 25 down to the south ridge top anchors then final 200+m scramble to the summit.

Other options are to rap down either the Central Arete or the South Ridge.