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Karasawa access routes (Hotaka East side)

  • Grade context: US
  • Ascents: 1
  • Aka: 涸沢 カールからアクセス (穂高岳東面)
1
YDS
5.3

Seasonality

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Access issues inherited from Japan

Some spots have access issues as many spots near crowded places elsewhere. So please ensure you follow the recommendations of local climbers and behave responsibly.

Approach

6 hours hike from Kamikochi (上高地) Bus Terminal to Karasawa Curl (涸沢カール)

Where to stay

Karasawa (涸沢) camping or huts

Ethic inherited from Japan

There`s not a lot of information about climbing in Japan in English. Much of the information is only available in Japanese - or of course here on theCrag!

The Japan Free Climbing Association (http://freeclimb.jp/seibi/seibi.htm) is a good point of contact and there is a set of 5 guidebooks (all in Japanese) and an alpine guide book in English available covering all of Japan and its thousands of sport and trad routes and boulders.

http://www.yamakei.co.jp/products/2811180810.html

https://www.amazon.com/Classic-Alpine-Climbs-Japan-Climb-ebook/dp/B01ARU5KR0

Routes

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Grade Route

Scramble / Solo over 8 peaks to the summit, Starting from 8 finishing at Peak 1 at the summit of Maehotaka (前穂高岳).

Many start from thecol between peaks 6-5, The more exciting sutff is from 5 ntil the summit

Peak 4 has a few fixed pitons but it not difficult Peak 3 consists of approximately 4 pitches (Grades IV, II, III, III) There are some other minor variations. From Peak 4 there is a 20m rapel down the back side before the final scramble to the summit (Peak 1)

There are various descents along the regular hiking trails.

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