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Table of contents
- 1.
Jo-yama / 城山
183 in Crag
- 1.1. Minami kabe / 南壁 / South Face 29 in Cliff
- 1.2. South East Face / 東南壁 0 in Cliff
- 1.3. Futama bando dai hang / 二間バンド大ハング 6 in Cliff
- 1.4. Tube Rock / Wave Rock / チューブロック 18 in Cliff
- 1.5. Inner Wall 1 / インナーウオール1 9 in Cliff
- 1.6. Inner Wall 2 / インナーウオール2 9 in Cliff
- 1.7. Inner Wall 3 / インナーウオール3 14 in Cliff
- 1.8. Inner Wall 4 / インナーウオール4 7 in Cliff
- 1.9. Wild Boar Gorge / ワイルドボアゴージ 35 in Cliff
- 1.10. Wild Boar right wall / ワイルドボア・右壁 6 in Cliff
- 1.11. Midway Wall (Egg Rock) / ウェーウォール（玉子岩） 17 in Cliff
- 1.12. Lion Bottom / ライオンボトム 17 in Cliff
- 1.13. Cooking World / クッキング ワールド 16 in Cliff
- 2. Index by grade
1. Jo-yama 183 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 35.002277, 138.930703
summary
Jo-Yama stands high above Izu City and offers single-pitch and multi-pitch sports climbing on excellent rock. Many routes face south and thus allow climbing in winter.
description
Jo-Yama is a "rock-mountain" stands along Karino-river (狩野川) in Ohito city in Shizuoka (静岡). Climbing started in 1960 and by now you can choose from over 300 bolted sportsclimbing routes graded range of 5.7 to 5.14. Ref: "Japan 100 Climbing area" by KITAYAMA Makoto, Yama to Keikoku-sha publication
access issues
Some spots have access issues as many spots near crowded places elsewhere. So please ensure you follow the recommendations of local climbers and behave responsibly.
approach
25 min walk from Ohito Stn., Izu Hakone Railway 40 min drive from Mishima Inter-change
ethic
Some trad, mostly bolted sports routes, single pitch and multi-pitch
history
Climbing in this area started from 1960 as a old style with artificial eqipments and from 1979 sports climbing started in this area.
 |
1.1. Minami kabe 29 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 35.003324, 138.930052
description
The main climbing area for Jo-yama
approach
From Ohito station, the bulk of Joyama is obvious. Turn left out of the station, first left & follow the road under the train tracks and left at the main road, over the bridge and right along the river to the well-marked start of the trail. The walking trail leads up through bamboo groves and forests, and drops you right in the middle of the South Face near Battlerunner.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★ Flying Head Butt / フライングヘッドバット
there is a variante in 5.11d | 5.11b | 6 | |||
| 2 | ★★ Iron Claw / アイアンクロー | 5.11c | 7 | |||
| 3 | ★★ Kawazu Kake / かわず 掛け | 5.10d | 8 | |||
| 4 | Half Moon / ハーフムーン | 5.10a | 3 | |||
| 5 | Learning-to-crawl / ラーニング・トゥ・クロール | 5.9 | 8 | |||
| 6 | Start me up / スタート・マイ・アップ | 5.9 | 7 | |||
| 7 | ★★ Butter Role / バターロール | 5.10c | 3 | |||
| 8 | ★★ Croissant / クロワッサン | 5.11a | 6 | |||
| 9 |
★★★ Excursion / エキスカーシヨン
This is the longest and most classic multi-pitch route up the South face of Jo-Yama. The entire 6 pitch route is protected by bolts which is typical for most climbs in this area. | 5.10c | 110m, 6 | |||
| 10 |
★ Homeboy / ホームボーイ
Good introduction to slabby face climbing on Joyama andesite. This is slabby face climbing, with many small solution pockets, few of them positive, so reasonably delicate climbing with footwork being important. Start of LHS of South Wall. Follow the line of bolts directly up, the well protected crux is near the top. Note the route sequence is from the topo in the guide book | 5.8 | 20m, 7 | |||
| 11 | ★ Gracias / グラシアス | 5.9 | 4 | |||
| 12 | ★★ Amigos / アミーゴス5 | 5.9 | 4 | |||
| 13 | Another Step / アナザステップ | 5.9 | 4 | |||
| 14 | ★ Tonkotsu / とんとん拍子 | 5.8 | 6 | |||
| 15 |
★★ Battlerunner / バトルランナー
Great 4 pitch sport route right up the middle of the main face directly through 2 overlaps and a roof. Crux is getting through the roof on P2 and its quite a hard 10a - but well protected. P2 could really do with re-bolting, there are some dodgy bolts and hangers there apart from the crux. Excellent climbing on clean rock, good exposure and views. Pity it doesn't top out, but given the rockfall danger to the busy path below, its probably a good idea. Descent Options: Rap the route. You can do it with a single 60m rope, but if you drag a 2nd rope up you'll get down much faster. | 5.10a | 100m, 4 | |||
| 16 | Blue Sky / ブルースカイ | 5.9 | 4 | |||
| 17 | Fulham Road / フルハムロード | 5.10b | 4 | |||
| 18 | Silver Root / 銀形ハング・ルート | 5.10a | 3 | |||
| 19 | Gypsy Mary | 5.10a | 7 | |||
| 20 |
unknown01
same start as "Gypsy Mary" | 5.11c | 8 | |||
| 21 | Nabata no tanabota / ナバタのタナボタ | 5.10c | 6 | |||
| 22 | Southwest Arrete / 西南カンテ・ルート | 5.9 | 6 | |||
| 23 | Dawn Route / 黎明ルート | 5.10a | 3 | |||
| 24 | Route of Issamu / いなずまルート | 5.10d | 3 | |||
| 25 |
★ Aogebatotoshi / 仰げば尊し
Route #40 of Minami Kabe sector of Joyama in Japanese guidebook. | 5.10d | 6 | |||
| 26 |
★ School Zone / スクールゾーン
Route #45 of the Minami Kabe sector of Toyama in the Japanese guidebook. 7 or 8 bolts to the anchor. | 5.10c | 20m, 7 | |||
| 27 |
★ Brown Sugar / ブラウンシュガー
Short and very interesting route that uses small pockets and side pulls crimps. The moves are hard to read but very nice and smooth when a good beta is found. The crux is a cool hand-crossing move to a relatively good pocket. A good left foot position is the key. | 5.11a | 8m | |||
| 28 |
★★ Heart Route / ハートルート
Short route with some big undercling pocket holds. It's a straightforward climb with big moves and very nice holds and features. | 5.11a | 8m | |||
| 29 |
★★ French Dressing / フレンチドレッシング
It starts with a nice and hard slab section followed by a little edge that is tricky to top out. | 5.11c | 10m | |||
1.2. South East Face 0 routes in Cliff
1.3. Futama bando dai hang 6 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 35.003780, 138.929748
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Inch Kikiji / インチキキジ | 5.11a | 12m | |||
| 2 | ★ Scab / かさぶた | 5.12c | ||||
| 3 | ★ Keren / ケレンジ | 5.13a | ||||
| 4 | Electronic Nembutsu / 電子念仏 | 5.11c | ||||
| 5 | HIT | 5.12c | ||||
| 6 | ★★ Fate / フェイト | 5.12a | ||||
1.4. Tube Rock 18 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 35.003591, 138.930082
description
The climbs are steep and short. The grades of the climbs in this Crag range from 5.10a to 5.12d. The climbs are all overhanging bolted sport routes.
approach
From the top car park, follow the marked hiking trail towards the summit of Jo-yama which will lead you to the Wave Rock (look for a wooden sign on your right). It is before the separation to Wild Bore Gorge. Follow a faint trail left that leads to fixed ropes.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★★★ Hakuhekinobika / 白壁の微瑕 | 5.12d | 6 | |||
| 2 | ★★★ Seitoshi no bunkiten / 生と死の分岐点 | 5.12b | 12m, 6 | |||
| 3 | ★★ Kon'nichiwa makoron / こんにちわマコロン | 5.11b | 5 | |||
| 4 | ★ Only Yesterday / オンリーイエスタデ | 5.10d | 5 | |||
| 5 | ★ Miurā / ミウラー | 5.11a | 4 | |||
| 6 | ★★ Stone Free / ストーンフリ | 5.10c | ||||
| 7 | ★ Gracie / グレイシー | 5.11c | 2 | |||
| 8 | Shamrock / シャムロック | 5.11b | 6 | |||
| 9 | ★ Rain Man / レインマン | 5.10b | 4 | |||
| 10 | ★★ Koharubiyori / 小春日和 | 5.12a | 4 | |||
| 11 | ★★★ Doronpa / ドロンパ | 5.12a | 6 | |||
| 12 | ★ Kirara / キララ | 5.10d | 8 | |||
| 13 | Barron Dance / バロンダンス | 5.11a | 3 | |||
| 14 | ★ Chandīrasa / チャンディーラサ | 5.11a | 4 | |||
| 15 | ★ First Circle / ファーストサークル | 5.11c | 4 | |||
| 16 | Punk Jazz / パンクジャズ | 5.12a | 5 | |||
| 17 | ★★ Istanbul / イスタンブール | 5.8 | 5 | |||
| 18 |
★ Tsubaki no mori no naka de / 椿の森の中で
Nice Climb and great test piece. Requires good footwork or it will feel very difficult for the grade | 5.9 | 4 | |||
1.5. Inner Wall 1 9 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 35.003874, 138.930511
approach
Follow the same approach as for Wild Boar Gorge. From Wild Boar Gorge - about half way down on the left - are fixed ropes that lead you to Inner Wall 1 and 2.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Another Country / アナザーカントリー | 5.6 | ||||
| 2 | Dream girl / ドリームガール | 5.10a | ||||
| 3 | ★★ The eyes of others / 他人の眼 | 5.10d | ||||
| 4 | The summer you were / 君がいた夏 | 5.5 | ||||
| 5 | Dangerous play / 危険な遊び | 5.5 | ||||
| 6 | Angel's poem / 天使の詩 | 5.10c | ||||
| 7 | Nikita / ニキータ | 5.9 | ||||
| 8 | Serpico / セルピコ | 5.10a | ||||
| 9 | ★ Being cornered / 追いつめられて | 5.11b | ||||
1.6. Inner Wall 2 9 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 35.003910, 138.930674
approach
See Inner Wall 1 for approach details, follow the fixed ropes further on.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★★★ Splash / スプラッシュ | 5.11b | ||||
| 2 | ★★★ Mission / ミッション | 5.12b | ||||
| 3 | ★ Rising sun / ライジングサン | 5.12a | ||||
| 4 | ★ Iron Maze / アイアンメイズ | 5.11a | ||||
| 5 | ★★ Blue slave / 蒼い奴隷 | 5.10c | ||||
| 6 | ★ Ice smile / 氷の微笑 | 5.10c | ||||
| 7 | ★★ Red route / 赤い航路 | 5.10d | ||||
| 8 | ★ Horizon / ホライズン | 5.12a | ||||
| 9 | ★★★ Go to Heaven / ゴートゥヘヴン | 5.11c | ||||
1.7. Inner Wall 3 14 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 35.003803, 138.930789
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★★★ Lock-up / ロックアップ | 5.11c | ||||
| 2 | ★★ Crazy joe / クレイジージョー | 5.11b/c | ||||
| 3 | ★ Inking String | 5.10b | ||||
| 4 | Square / スクウェア | 5.9 | ||||
| 5 | Chizuru / チズル | 5.8 | ||||
| 6 | ★★ Independence Day / インデペンデンスデイ | 5.10b/c | ||||
| 7 | ★ The Rock / ザ・ロック | 5.10b | ||||
| 8 | Lost paradise / 失楽園 | 5.10c | ||||
| 9 | ★★ Misery / ミザリー | 5.11d | ||||
| 10 | ★★ Phenomena / フェノミナ | 5.12b | ||||
| 11 | ★★ Leviathan / リバイアサン | 5.13a | ||||
| 12 | ★ Scanty / スキャンティー | 5.12a | ||||
| 13 | Stormy Mandy / ストーミーマンディ | 5.10d | ||||
| 14 | ★ Year of The Ghan / イヤーオブ。ザ・ガン | 5.10c | ||||
1.8. Inner Wall 4 7 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 35.003937, 138.930860
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Boxing Helena / ボクシングへレナ | 5.11a | ||||
| 2 | ★★ Twin Peaks / ツインピークス | 5.10a/b | ||||
| 3 | ★ The Unforgiven / 許されざる者 | 5.11a | ||||
| 4 | Body talk / ボディートーク | 5.10c | ||||
| 5 | Grace Talk / グレイストーク | 5.11a | ||||
| 6 | Killing dress / 殺しのドレス | 5.10c/d | ||||
| 7 | ★★ The silence of the sheep / 羊たちの沈黙 | 5.10c | ||||
1.9. Wild Boar Gorge 35 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 35.003740, 138.930296
description
This is a very popular sports crag in autumn and spring and get get relatively packed on the steep screened slope. He grades of the climbs in this Crag range from 5.10a to 5.14. The climbs are all overhanging bolted sport routes. The side wall is located in the forested slope accessed from the top of the mountain via the main hiking trail. The view from the slope is limited and it can become very exposed and hot in summer. In winter the wind tends to blow down the slope and it can become very cold. There is a lot of unstable rock on the screened slope the entire length of the crag so great care should be taken on the approach down the slope.
approach
From the top car park, follow the marked hiking trail towards the summit of Jo-yama which will lead you to the Wild Boar Gorge (look for a wooden sign on your right).
1.10. Wild Boar right wall 6 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 35.003531, 138.930853
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★ Angelus | 5.12a | ||||
| 2 | ★ Propolis / プロポリス | 5.11b | ||||
| 3 | ★★ Wild X / ワイルドX | 5.10a | ||||
| 4 | Fairway / フェアウェイ | 5.11b | ||||
| 5 | I'm sorry Terralin / ごめんねテラリン | 5.11a | ||||
| 6 | ★★ Shiroyama story / 城山物語 | 5.9 | ||||
1.11. Midway Wall (Egg Rock) 17 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 35.003633, 138.931039
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★ Champion Road / チャンピオンロード | 5.10a | ||||
| 2 | Champion Road Direct / チャンピオンロード ダイレクト | 5.10d | ||||
| 3 | ★★ To Far Away / トゥ・ファーアウェイ | 5.12a | ||||
| 4 | ★★ Kintamani / キンタマーニ | 5.11b | ||||
| 5 | ★ Kintamani Left / キンタマーニ レフト | 5.12b | ||||
| 6 | ★ Street girl / ストリートガール | 5.10c | ||||
| 7 | ★ First impression / ファースト・インプレッション | 5.10b | ||||
| 8 | ★★ The Hood / ザ・フッド | 5.10c | ||||
| 9 | ★★ Central freeway / 中央フリーウェイ | 5.10b | ||||
| 10 | ★★ Wild things / ワイルドシングス | 5.10b/c | ||||
| 11 | ★ How to climb the earth / 地球の登り方 | 5.10c | ||||
| 12 | Lost child daughter / 迷える子娘 | 5.11a | ||||
| 13 |
★★ JNCC Route / JNCCルート
P1: 5.10b * P2: 5.10a ** | 5.10b | 2 | |||
| 14 |
★★ Bon Voyage / ボン・ボヤージュ
P1: 5.10b * P2: 5.10d ** | 5.10d | 2 | |||
| 15 | ★★ Hymn of the blue sky / 蒼空の讃歌 | 5.10c | ||||
| 16 |
★ Blue Skyline Direct / ブルー・スカイライン・ダイレクト
P1: 5.11c * P2: 5.10d * | 5.11c | 2 | |||
| 17 | ★ Blue skyline light / ブルー・スカイライン・ライト | 5.11b | ||||
1.12. Lion Bottom 17 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 35.003512, 138.931249
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★ Warnambool / ウォーナンブール | 5.9 | ||||
| 2 | ★ Nakayoshi / なかよし | 5.10b | ||||
| 3 | Under caution / アンダーコーション | 5.11b | ||||
| 4 | ★ Off corner / オフコーナー | 5.10c | ||||
| 5 | ★★ Kappa river flow / 河童の川流れ | 5.11c | ||||
| 6 | ★★ Palm civet / 白鼻心 | 5.11d | ||||
| 7 | ★★★ Mon Village / モンビラージュ | 5.11c | ||||
| 8 | ★ Cinderboy / シンデルボーイ | 5.12a | ||||
| 9 | ★★★ Duck webbing / 鴨の水掻き | 5.12b | ||||
| 10 | ★★ Large hill / ラージヒル | 5.12a | ||||
| 11 | ★★ Mogul / モーグル | 5.11d | ||||
| 12 | ★★ Red buffalo / レッドバッファロー | 5.11b | ||||
| 13 | ★ Santa Mur / サンタムール | 5.8 | ||||
| 14 | ★★ Shanghai Rouge / シャンハイ・ルージュ | 5.12b | ||||
| 15 | ★★ Beautiful Kano River / 美しき狩野川 | 5.11d | ||||
| 16 | ★ Departure of lemming / ディパーチャー・オブ・レミング | 5.10d | ||||
| 17 | ★ Spucam / スプカム | 5.10c | ||||
1.13. Cooking World 16 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 35.004007, 138.931290
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★★ Rice noodles / 焼ビーフン | 5.10a | ||||
| 2 | Taiyaki-kun / 鯛焼君 | 5.7 | ||||
| 3 | ★★ Octopus grilled / 蛸焼〜ナ | 5.10d | ||||
| 4 | ★ Aone meat line / 青根肉線 | 5.10b | ||||
| 5 | ★★★ Stroganov / ストロガノフ | 5.11c | ||||
| 6 | ★★ Tomattainer / トマッテーナ | 5.10b | ||||
| 7 | First garlic pickles / 始の練韮漬 | 5.9 | ||||
| 8 | Italian gelato / イタリアンジェラート | 5.8 | ||||
| 9 | ★ Naan / ナン | 5.11a | ||||
| 10 | Poached egg / ポーチドエッグ | 5.10a | ||||
| 11 | ★★ Fu Chanpuru / フーチャンプル | 5.11b | ||||
| 12 | ★★★ Gorgonzola / ゴルゴンゾーラ | 5.11a | ||||
| 13 | ★ Peparoncino / ペパロンチーノ | 5.10c | ||||
| 14 | Samgyetang / サンゲタン | 5.10b | ||||
| 15 | Tandoori chicken / タンドリーチキン | 5.10b | ||||
| 16 | ★ Tom Yum Kung / トムヤンクン | 5.10c | ||||
