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Akibasho Rock Guide

  • Grade context: US
  • Photos: 1
  • Ascents: 10
  • Aka: 秋場所ロック

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Warning

Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Marc dM

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Akibasho Rock 5 routes in Area

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

All Trad climbing

access issues

Some spots have access issues as many spots near crowded places elsewhere. So please ensure you follow the recommendations of local climbers and behave responsibly.

inherited from Japan

ethic

There`s not a lot of information about climbing in Japan in English. Much of the information is only available in Japanese - or of course here on theCrag!

The Japan Free Climbing Association (http://freeclimb.jp/seibi/seibi.htm) is a good point of contact and there is a set of 5 guidebooks (all in Japanese) and an alpine guide book in English available covering all of Japan and its thousands of sport and trad routes and boulders.

http://www.yamakei.co.jp/products/2811180810.html

https://www.amazon.com/Classic-Alpine-Climbs-Japan-Climb-ebook/dp/B01ARU5KR0

inherited from Japan
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Tenshi no kaidan / 天使の階段

Translates as "Angels Stairs"

5.11c Trad 40m
2 Nanashi no Gonbee / 名無しの権兵衛

Translates as "Anonymous" (No Name)

5.10a Trad 30m
3 Walk On

Start up Nanshi no Gonbee to the small roof, go over the roof and into the thin finger crack above. continue past the tree at half height and continue to follow the obvious crack line. The crack widens as you go from fist to O.W. size. BD C4 #3- 5 is required to protect the top section.

5.11d Trad 30m
4 Bunbu wa ryōdō / 文武は両道

This line is very gritty and covered with moss and scale, this line will need a fair bit of cleaning before it can be lead again. It looks like a good line and would be worth cleaning up, definitely looks like a one or two star climb.

5.12a Trad 30m
5 Devil Dance / 悪魔の踊り

The final top section of the climb was linked and the FFA made by James Frith on 14th October 2013. The protection is good but the final crux section of the route is unprotected and run-out, which can be very daunting. A helmet is considered a good option. This is a must do line for all budding Mizugaki-Yama Crack Gurus.

FFA: James Frith, 2013

5.12a Trad 20m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
5.10a Nanashi no Gonbee Trad 30m
5.11c Tenshi no kaidan Trad 40m
5.11d Walk On Trad 30m
5.12a Bunbu wa ryōdō Trad 30m
Devil Dance Trad 20m
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