Access issues inherited from Japan

Some spots have access issues as many spots near crowded places elsewhere. So please ensure you follow the recommendations of local climbers and behave responsibly.

Ethic inherited from Japan

There`s not a lot of information about climbing in Japan in English. Much of the information is only available in Japanese - or of course here on theCrag!

The Japan Free Climbing Association ( is a good point of contact and there is a set of 5 guidebooks (all in Japanese) and an alpine guide book in English available covering all of Japan and its thousands of sport and trad routes and boulders.


Some content has been provided under license from: © Neil Harrison (Copyright


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Grade Route

Slab Route located above Jet Stream

Mixture of crack and face climbing.

The start of the climb is protected with 4 bolts, the remainder of climb is NP (F#3, R1, F#2.5)

The bolts might look in the wrong place, but once you have a good look at the route and rock around, you will notice that they are about right.

Beautiful arete climb

  1. Hand (5.8)

  2. Slab (5.8)

  3. Wide (5.7)

  4. Wide-Slab (5.6)

  5. Slab (5.8)

  6. Hand (5.8)


Classic Finger Crack. The lines runs straight down the center of the main wall.

The name of the climb means "Spider silk".

Route Name means "I dropped a dead tree!"

Route name means " Team of Spiders"

Starts on the obvious slab/corner on the left as you get to Yane Sanpou.

  1. First pitch (5.6) goes up the slab next to the corner past a tree to a decent tree & ledge. (Original guidebook shows this as 2 pitches but its easy to do in 1.

  2. Next pitch (5.7) continues up and left along a line of cracks and flakes to another tree and small ledge belay (2 bolts).

  3. 3rd pitch (5.8) goes straight up the squeeze chimney above for the crux of the route - good bolt below the chimney, not protectable inside it. Wear long pants... Continue up to belay on big ledge with tree belay.

  4. Pitch 4 (5.5) - walk back up broken ground to a crack up and right. Climb this to the top and belay over the back

  1. Face

  2. Face-Slab

  3. OW

  4. Face-III


Another good long stroll, this one being more even than Nanryou Kanagawa Route and featuring a cracking third pitch. The traverse on Pitch 2 can also be intimidating. Take a rack.

  1. 5.6 As for Nanryou Kanagawa Route - climb the corner - mainly on the slab - on slightly dodgy rock to belay at a tree on a good ledge. If possible, belay out of the corner (a party of two can use the shiny new bolts on top of the pinnacle on the right).

  2. 5.7 From behind the belay, follow a traverse line right to a big flake. Undercling left, then climb the continuation crack and slab to a bolt belay on a good ledge.

  3. 5.8 Step left from the belay and climb the slab to a prominent crack. Up this to another good ledge. The tricky lower section of this pitch can be avoided on the right. But you'll be knocking a star off the route

  4. 5.6 Continue more easily up the slab to the spacious terrace.

  5. 5.5 Wander back and right and pick a line up the easy slabs to the top.

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