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Kibou Mine

  • Grade context: US
  • Ascents: 7
  • Aka: 希望峰

Seasonality

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Access issues inherited from Maku Iwa

As of March 2010 there are some access issues with the left-hand band of cliffs from the parking lot. Climbers are asked to climb only on the right hand side (Wonderland/Ali Baba area) until this has been resolved.

Ethic inherited from Japan

There`s not a lot of information about climbing in Japan in English. Much of the information is only available in Japanese - or of course here on theCrag!

The Japan Free Climbing Association (http://freeclimb.jp/seibi/seibi.htm) is a good point of contact and there is a set of 5 guidebooks (all in Japanese) and an alpine guide book in English available covering all of Japan and its thousands of sport and trad routes and boulders.

http://www.yamakei.co.jp/products/2811180810.html

https://www.amazon.com/Classic-Alpine-Climbs-Japan-Climb-ebook/dp/B01ARU5KR0

Routes

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Grade Route

Considered one of the local classics. A fall from the crux after the third bolt can be nasty and wearing a helmet is strongly recommended as a person died on it in 2012 after falling upside down and hitting their head on the rock. I saw the same happen to another person but they were fortunate enough to walk away from it.

Alternating laybacks make for an interesting ascent

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