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Seasonality

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D

Ethic inherited from Jordan

Routes

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Grade Route
1 5a
2 5a
3 5a
4 4
5 3
6 5

Timing: Allow for a long day, more if you get lost, which you probably might, more if you want to take it easy and have a break or two. If you are a super-duper mountain guide then perhaps the guide book time of 3-4 hours is achievable.

Sun / Temperature: In August it was bearable with shady belays, but starting in the dark could help.

Gear: Expect rope drag, Cams up to Camalot 3. Some belay stations are bolted. The abseil from the plateau (Hammads ridge) back down to the traverse is about 50m.

Route

  • From the village head towards Jebel Rum and take the steps up to Lawrence’s well. Turn right in the minty area and head up the gully.
  • After passing between large boulders, towards the top of the gully on the right hand side there will be a rock ramp heading up but facing down the gully (grade 3/4). Someone has also scratched an arrow into the face at the bottom. (Between 40 mins and 1 hour from the village.)
  • Traverse the ledge and scramble up

    1. f5- large diagonal crack in the wall, 50m.
  • From the shelf traverse a little bit to the right and then head up the plateau (Hammads ridge),look out for a repel station on your right as you climb.
  • On the plateau, head left
  • find a straight, long and narrow walled chimney/gully that heads to the great siq floor and descend.
  • Go east through the great siq with a rappel and two short problems, 2nd being about f5 6m and unprotectable.
  • After the 2nd problem you will be at the base of the eye (3 - 4 hours from the village).

    1. f5- wide crack about 50m.

    2. 50m, f5- starts with a tricky chimney

    3. 40m f4 climb the ramp

    4. traverse across to the base of the eye, f3.

    5. Pitch 5 of the main route, climb the slab (and or crack / chimney), in the guide book it is f3 however there are some very tricky sections, with maybe the hardest move of the route, 40m. You are now in the eye.

Descent.

Reverse route about 6 repels to the base, back up through the siq and back up the chimney to hammads ridge. Two options exist from here.

Descent alt. Alternative abseil descent, down jebel rum east face and route mumkin. Somewhat complicated and easy to make mistakes. - 50m From the eye rap diagonally back to below the start of the final pitch. - 25m, hidden. - 50m, heading more east to big ledge at the side of the big black slab - 50m, down big black slab - 50m, - 15m, traversing climbers right, don't go down the gully. - Easy walk through sand to Mumkin abseils.

For more details see http://kbecan.blogspot.com/2014/02/welcome-to-jordan.html

1 6a 40m
2 6b 40m
3 7a+ 35m
4 7a 25m
5 7a 35m
6 6c 50m
7 6b 40m
8 7a+ 45m
9 6b 45m
10 7a 45m
11 7a+ 30m
12 5c 40m

Probably the best rock on Jebel Rum. Starts some meter left of 'Towering Inferno'

Topo

Phototopo by Tobias Wolf

Gear

  • 2x 60m Rope
  • 14 Quickdraws
  • 3x 1,20m Slings
  • 3x BD Cams 0.2, 0.3, 0.4 or Metolius Mastercams 1, 2, 3

Source Arnaud Petit

FA: Chris Stiller, Jan Stiller & Tobias Wolf, 15 Feb 2020

FFA: Chris Stiller, Jan Stiller & Tobias Wolf, 17 Feb 2020

Extends Inferno all the way to the summit, finishing up the final huge chimney of 'Inshallah factor'.

FA: Tony Howard & Wilf Colonna, 1986

1 7a
2 7a+
3 7c+
4 7a+
5 7c+
6 7c+
7 7b
8 6b
9 6b
10 7b+
11 6b+
12 6c

Independent line to the right of 'Revienta o barilla' and crosses 'Insh’Allah Factor' at about half-height. Source planetmountain.com

https://vagabondsdelaverticale.wordpress.com/2020/02/23/la-voie-du-coeur-au-wadi-rum/

Photo Topo shared by Tobias Wolf

FA: Arnaud Petit, Jonathan Crison, Eline Le Menestrel, Solène Amoros, Eloi Peretti, Romaric Geffroy, Guillaume Colin & Thoma Meignan, Feb 2020

mainly sport but trad finish with raid mit the camel

FA: Ondra Benes, Michal Rosecky & Tomas Sobotka

on Abu Aina Towers finished with lion heart

FA: Thomas Senf & Rolf Weber, 2006

added glue on critical holds, featured in the reel rock movie valley of the moon. Mainly bolted

Set by Eliav Nissan, Elad Omer & Madaleine Sorkin, Jan 2017

FA: Jachym Srb & Matej Svotjka, Feb 2017

Above the Champs-Élysées ledge, they joined Ramedame (Remy-Remy, 1986) and followed this route for another six pitches (up to 6b) to the top. They placed 11 protection bolts on the new pitches and outfitted the belays with anchor bolts.

FA: Martin Krasnansky & Jozef Kristoffy, 2014

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