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Summary

Smaller mountain north of barrah canyon. First climbs recorded in 2006

Description

A newer area with routes full of classic rum character. Only a handful of routes recorded so far.

Approach

No need to go to Wadi Rum village. On the drive in turn left at the police check point. After the petrol station head south into desert.

Where to stay

Obeid's camp or Salman Zwaidh camp both situated at the base of the mountain.

Ethic inherited from Jordan

History

History timeline chart

Next to the Siq Um Al Tawaqi which has the carved head of Laurence of Arabia from 1918

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route
1 4+
2 4+
3 4+
4 5c+

An awesome cave!

Approach
Climb starts inside Salman Zwaidh camp, please say hello to Musa who owns the camp before starting, he's a very nice man. The hole (Cave) is pretty obvious its on the north face of Jebel Hassani. Its north facing but got the sun form around 9-12 in the summer.
Gear
You'll need at least 10 quick draws for the last pitch along with normal trad. Double 60m ropes.
Time
8 hours.
  1. f4+: Climb up through the awesome cave and pop out the top. Some in situ slings which you might not require depending on your path. Some hollow sounding threads. Scrambling up the cave entrance is pretty easy.

  2. f4+: Don't head to the left corner. Walk across the plateau and try to eyeball the black streak which goes all the way to the top. This pitch could start anywhere as there are plenty of options.

  3. f4: Climb on up cracks and features to another big ledge to reach the black face of the final pitch.

  4. f5c+ 50m: Sustained undulating face climbing all the way on black rock, has around 10 very spaced out bolts with limited trad options in between. Top out to a bolt and thread.

Descent
The FAs describe a scramble left and a 30m repel, our version is a bit different.
  • Scramble left (East), 40m repel from bolt and piton.
  • Head west then short repel from thread.

From here there are 2 options.

  • snake your way down the way you came on broken ground to a full 60m repel from a big thread (tie knots) to the plateau next to the start hole.

Or easier

  • Head east following cairns to a gully which leads to the Siq um al Tawaqi with another long repel.

FA: James Garrett & Res von Känel, 2007

On the north face, head east from hole to hole. Mixed climb with some bolts. See mountain project for more details.

FA: James Garrett & Res von Känel, 2006

Approach from nearby Obeid's Camp, immediately behind and in close proximity to Obeid's Bedouin Camp. 5 minutes to the East walk from camp

From Obeid's Bedouin Camp and facing the rocks behind his camp, this is located on the "Corner Crag" about a mile to the West (far side to the right of the rocks).

On the "Corner" Crag next to Full Moon Waning, west from an Al Hasani from Obeid's Camp.

Warning Rock: Loose unstable rocks on ledges and pitch #3

1 5b
2 5b
3 4

Approach: You can access the route by car from Disi village (15 min) or Rum village (20 min).

  1. First pitch (5b) Nice quality sand stone crack with some face climbing (38m).

  2. Second pitch (5b) Sandy chimney with awkward moves and small protection (20m).

  3. Third pitch (4-) Easy stretch to the summit plateau (20m).

Descent: Head West to an easy traverse (30-40m) on the same face, Then descend down the back of the mountain following the rock cairns back to valley floor (easy walk 15 min back to base of the route). Option to park you car here (29.617757, 35.482987) then walk to the base of the climb.

FFA: Osama Qubain & Ahmad bani hani, 20 Nov

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