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Description

The line of cliffs facing the river. West facing, so lovely on a late autumn afternoon, but hell when it's hot.

It is possible to top-rope a number of routes (using either spikes or the modern anchors) by carefully scrambling up the ridge. Start at the narrowest point.

Access issues inherited from Tamgaly-Tas

A large sandy patch normally forms on the usual access road at (44.083491, 77.022340), about 5km from the crag. With a 2wd, you should consider taking one of the alternate roads.

There is a gate at the entrance to the climbing area. As of 2020 the wardens don't seem to mind if you just walk through and climb. They will, however, charge a fee if you drive in, or camp inside the fence.

Approach

Walk through the gate and take the right path.

Descent notes

Most routes are equipped with modern lower-offs. In a few cases you need to continue to the ridge and abseil from the metal spike. A 60m rope is necessary to descend from some of the multipitch routes.

Ethic inherited from Tamgaly-Tas

There were some dodgy ethics in the past (chipped and glued holds), but the crag is now being developed as a modern sport crag, with respect for trad lines.

There is still plenty of space on Tamgaly-Tas rocks. There is a place for sport routes, multipitches, and trad lines. If you live or travel in the area and decide to put a route:

  • Use best materials available, i.e. stainless steel glue-in bolts and appropriate glue (Hilti Hit RE-500, Hilty Hit HY-200 or similar). The second option—expansion stainless steel bolts. If you don’t have access to suitable gear, please don’t bolt anything.
  • Contact the locals - that is Kirill Belotserkovsky on Facebook or at kirill@steelinside.com - to discuss a sector and a line.
  • Don’t bolt obvious cracks! Cracks could be done on gear, so consider doing them in the best style you (or those stronger than you) can.

If you don’t want to deal with drills, dust, and glue but want to join the process of development of the area, donate some money. One route costs approx $100, but you don’t need to transfer all the sum. Even a small donation will allow the locals to buy more bolts and set more safe routes.

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