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Description

The long vertical wall with a corner at the right end. The main attraction here is Bieliy podtyok, a long 7c.

Access issues inherited from Tamgaly-Tas

A large sandy patch normally forms on the usual access road at (44.083491, 77.022340), about 5km from the crag. With a 2wd, you should consider taking one of the alternate roads.

There is a gate at the entrance to the climbing area. As of 2020 the wardens don't seem to mind if you just walk through and climb. They will, however, charge a fee if you drive in, or camp inside the fence.

Approach

Continue walking along the path.

Descent notes

Modern lower-offs for sport routes and spikes on the ridge for trad routes.

Ethic inherited from Tamgaly-Tas

There were some dodgy ethics in the past (chipped and glued holds), but the crag is now being developed as a modern sport crag, with respect for trad lines.

There is still plenty of space on Tamgaly-Tas rocks. There is a place for sport routes, multipitches, and trad lines. If you live or travel in the area and decide to put a route:

  • Use best materials available, i.e. stainless steel glue-in bolts and appropriate glue (Hilti Hit RE-500, Hilty Hit HY-200 or similar). The second option—expansion stainless steel bolts. If you don’t have access to suitable gear, please don’t bolt anything.
  • Contact the locals - that is Kirill Belotserkovsky on Facebook or at kirill@steelinside.com - to discuss a sector and a line.
  • Don’t bolt obvious cracks! Cracks could be done on gear, so consider doing them in the best style you (or those stronger than you) can.

If you don’t want to deal with drills, dust, and glue but want to join the process of development of the area, donate some money. One route costs approx $100, but you don’t need to transfer all the sum. Even a small donation will allow the locals to buy more bolts and set more safe routes.

Routes

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Grade Route

Starts a few metres left of Maliy serp, below the thin crack. Climb good crack to ledge then continue to top. Solid pro despite appearances. Some chipped holds.

The first bolted line. Starts a underneath the corner/flake feature and finishes 2/3 of the way up the cliff.

The classic of the sector. Long and mostly hard. There are some drilled holds and old bolts (which are very solid).

Don't climb this route between April and September. Swallows nest nearby

Starts between Bieliy podtyok and Gnyozda. Climb to the small rooflet, traverse slightly right and continue up Gnyozda for a few metres. Traverse further right into corner and continue to top (spike belay). There are some old bolts, which should not be trusted.

The rightmost bolted line. Spike belay on top of the ridge. Be careful of rope length when descending.

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