Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
8a+ | |||||
Almaty Tamgaly-Tas Riverside Karnizy and Tri sheli | |||||
8a+ | ★★★ Plyashi v ogne!
1
6c
25m
2
8a+
30m
Starts 10-15 m right of Ot vinta. P1: Small overhang followed by tricky face climbing. 6c, 27m, 14 bolts. P2: Climb the arete and then join the second pitch of Ot vinta. 8a+, 20m, 14 bolts. FA: Pavel Gryaznov, 2019 | 55m, 2, 28 | |||
8a | |||||
Almaty Водопад Бутаковка Upper | |||||
8a | Центурион
| 17m | |||
7c+/8a | |||||
Almaty Водопад Бутаковка Middle | |||||
7c+/8a | ★★★ Первый раз
8а if you completely eliminate arête on the left and climb on the face without crossing over to neighboring 7a. | 20m, 14 | |||
7c+ | |||||
Almaty Tamgaly-Tas Riverside Karnizy and Tri sheli | |||||
7c+ | ★★ Ot vinta
1
6a+
30m
2
7c+
20m
Starts just right of Gnyozda, near the right end of the imposing roof. P1: 6a+ 30m, 14 bolts. Access pitch P2: Climb the face and traverse right to the slab to avoid the roof. 7c+, 20m, 14 bolts. | 50m, 2, 28 | |||
7c | |||||
Almaty Tamgaly-Tas Riverside Serpy | |||||
7c | ★★★ Bieliy podtyok
The classic of the sector. Long and mostly hard. There are some drilled holds and old bolts (which are very solid). | 30m, 20 | |||
Almaty Tamgaly-Tas Riverside Prigorod | |||||
7c | ★★★ Surpriz #2
Start is to the right of the bolts, beneath obvious small flake. Traverse to the first bolt and then continue up to the right. Spotter or stick clip is a very good idea for the first bolt. The direct start has also been climbed. | 15m, 7 | |||
Almaty Водопад Бутаковка Upper | |||||
7c | Волна
| 15m, 10 | |||
Almaty Peak Oktyabryonok Left Bastion | |||||
7c | Ронин
1
6c+
2
7a
3
6b
4
7a+
5
7b
6
7c
7
5b
| 7 | |||
7b+/c | |||||
Almaty Tamgaly-Tas Gavan Laboratoriya | |||||
7b+/c | ★★★ Бесогон
| 25m, 10 | |||
7b+ | |||||
Озеро Боровое Туфелька | |||||
7b+ | 8 | ||||
Almaty Tamgaly-Tas Gavan Laboratoriya | |||||
7b+ | Веснопляc
| 23m, 10 | |||
Almaty Водопад Бутаковка Upper | |||||
7b+ | Бойцовский клуб
| 15m, 14 | |||
7a - b+ | |||||
Almaty Водопад Бутаковка Middle | |||||
7a - b+ | ★★ Требушет
7b+ if climbed along the bolts, 7a if you use the arete on the left. | 30m | |||
7b | |||||
Almaty Tamgaly-Tas Riverside Bastion | |||||
7b | ★★★ Pryamaya doroga
The best route of the grade. Easy crack start leads to pockets and then exposed climbing with safe falls. | 22m, 14 | |||
Almaty Tamgaly-Tas Riverside Enbek | |||||
7b | Одноразовые герои
| 22m, 10 | |||
Almaty Tamgaly-Tas Riverside Gorod | |||||
7b | ★★ Skazka o sile
1
7a+/b
25m
2
7b
25m
Starts on the slab right of the wide corner, which is right of Lomovaya shel. Old bolts were replaced in October 2020.
| 50m, 2, 19 | |||
Almaty Tamgaly-Tas Gavan Lev | |||||
7b | ★★★ Razminka
Climb the overhanging corner and then move to the right. Probably a sandbag? The first bolt is difficult to clip, so consider climbing to the big ledge on the left to clip it before starting. Originally graded 6c! | 15m, 8 | |||
Almaty Tamgaly-Tas Gavan Biblioteka Upper level | |||||
7b | Pochtamt
The gentle blank slab. | 15m, 7 | |||
Almaty Азиатские скалы Городская скала | |||||
7b | Моби Дик
Big cornice. | 10m, 5 | |||
Almaty Водопад Бутаковка Middle | |||||
7b | ★★ Злой
| 30m | |||
Almaty Водопад Бутаковка Lower | |||||
7b | Послдений отсчёт
Leftmost route. | 20m, 14 | |||
Almaty Peak Oktyabryonok Left Bastion | |||||
7b | Итилиен
1
5c
2
7b
3
6b
4
6c
5
?
6
6c+
7
6a
| 7 | |||
7a+/b | |||||
Almaty Tamgaly-Tas Gavan Laboratoriya | |||||
7a+/b | Right route
Easy climbing up a crack followed by a pull over the bulge and a delicate face at the top. Some old, but solid bolts. | 20m | |||
Almaty Азиатские скалы Спорт Марафон | |||||
7a+/b | ★★★ Лемурия
Excellent climbing on small crimps. | 10m, 7 | |||
7a - b | |||||
Усть-Каменого́рск Малый | |||||
7a - b | торчёк | 18m, 6 | |||
Bektau-Ata Sphinx | |||||
7a - b | Kazkhsha Kures
For the first 8 meters there is an offwidth that swallows two #5 and one #6 camalots. The crack then narrows and disappears, leaving you in a corner with a couple of pockets for cams. To get down, rappel from a big block on a ledge or climb a 3-meter step and walk down on foot. | 15m | |||
6b - 7b | |||||
Almaty Азиатские скалы Спорт Марафон | |||||
6b - 7b | ★★ Шамбала
7b if you climb directly over the overlap. Around 6b if you climb the crack. | 12m, 5 | |||
7a+ | |||||
Озеро Боровое Сайыртас (Корова) | |||||
7a+ | 3 | ||||
Озеро Боровое Туфелька | |||||
7a+ | 7 | ||||
Озеро Боровое Окжетпес (Слоник) | |||||
7a+ | 4 | ||||
Almaty Tamgaly-Tas Riverside Bastion | |||||
7a+ | ★★★ Griboedovskiy vals
Sustained climbing on nice pockets and crimps. | 20m, 14 | |||
Almaty Tamgaly-Tas Riverside Prigorod | |||||
7a+ | ★★★ Surpriz
Start a few metres right of Mescalito and follow bolts to the open-book corner. FA: A. Rychkov, 2002 | 26m, 13 | |||
Almaty Tamgaly-Tas Gavan Biblioteka Bottom Level | |||||
7a+ | Planeya lyudey
| 15m, 7 | |||
Almaty Tamgaly-Tas Gavan Zamanka | |||||
7a+ | ★★ Bezumniy Shlyapnik
| 10m, 6 | |||
Almaty Tamgaly-Tas Gavan Laboratoriya | |||||
7a+ | Коперник
| 25m, 13 | |||
Almaty Peak Oktyabryonok Left Bastion | |||||
7a+ | ★★ Фангорн
1
6b
2
7a+
3
6c
4
7a+
5
6a
6
6b
7
5a
| 7 | |||
7a/a+ | |||||
Almaty Tamgaly-Tas Riverside Gorod | |||||
7a/a+ | ★★ Ogon' iznutri
1
6c
30m
2
7a/a+
25m
| 55m, 2, 18 | |||
Almaty Tamgaly-Tas Riverside Prigorod | |||||
7a/a+ | ★★ Nagval
Starts on a gentle slab 10-15m right of Surpriz. | 24m, 12 | |||
7a | |||||
Озеро Боровое Туфелька | |||||
7a | 7 | ||||
Bektau-Ata Svechki | |||||
7a | Silovaya Yoga
From the bottom, once again, it appeared like a walk in the park, in fact, it turned out to be a tricky 7a. There is no place to build a belay on the top. The leader has to sit into a pit and belay from their harness. | 35m | |||
Almaty Tamgaly-Tas Riverside Bastion | |||||
7a | ★★ Podvig razvedchika
Sustained crux on crimps followed by easier climbing to the top. | 20m, 10 | |||
Almaty Tamgaly-Tas Riverside Enbek | |||||
7a | ★★★ UZPA
1
6b
2
7a
| 30m, 2, 16 | |||
Almaty Tamgaly-Tas Riverside Gorod | |||||
7a | Sila bezmolviya
1
6b
23m
2
7a
25m
The first bolted route right of Shel s ptitsami. P1: 6b, 23m, 10 bolts. P2: 7a, 25m, 13 bolts. Beware of potential ledge fall in the middle of this pitch. | 48m, 2, 23 | |||
Almaty Tamgaly-Tas Gavan Zamanka | |||||
7a | ★★ Barmaglot
The rooflet is the crux. | 12m, 7 | |||
Almaty Tamgaly-Tas Gavan Visyachiy Kamen (Hanging Rock) | |||||
7a | Молодой пожарный
| 10m, 6 | |||
Almaty Tuyuk-Su Мемориал Альпинистов | |||||
7a | Веснушка | 27m, 17 | |||
Almaty Tuyuk-Su Мектеп | |||||
7a | ★★★ No sun – no fun
The crag classic, with interesting moves on the first pitch (7a) and adventurous, sparsely bolted, loose second pitch (6a) | 18m, 2, 12 | |||
Almaty Азиатские скалы Городская скала | |||||
7a | ★★ Ахав
Fun moves through the overlap. There is a hollow-sounding block at the top which seems stable. | 10m, 5 | |||
Almaty Водопад Бутаковка Middle | |||||
7a | ★ Дракончик
| 20m, 13 | |||
7a | ★★ Хороший
Interesting crux. | 30m | |||
Almaty Водопад Бутаковка Lower | |||||
7a | Бусидо
| 20m, 12 | |||
Almaty Peak Oktyabryonok Middle Bastion | |||||
7a | ★★ Лориен
1
6b+
2
6a
3
6b+
4
5c
5
6b+
6
6c
7
7a
Another partially bolted sport route, requiring occasional trad gear in some places.
| 6 | |||
7a | ★★ Ангмар
1
6b+
2
5b
3
6a+
4
6b+
5
7a
6
7a
| 6 | |||
6c - 7a | |||||
Усть-Каменого́рск Малый | |||||
6c - 7a | копчёнка | 15m, 8 | |||
6c - 7a | танцор | 12m, 4 | |||
Almaty Tamgaly-Tas Riverside Karnizy and Tri sheli | |||||
6c - 7a | ★★★ Pashkina shel
The wide overhanging crack right of Plyashi v ogne! Access by climbing first pitch of Plyashi v ogne!. Traverse right at the top to spike belay on the ridge. Cams to BD #6. | 30m | |||
6c+ | |||||
Озеро Боровое Туфелька | |||||
6c+ | 5 | ||||
6c+ | 4 | ||||
Almaty Tamgaly-Tas Riverside Enbek | |||||
6c+ | ★★ Batareya
1
5c
2
6c+
| 30m, 2, 16 | |||
Almaty Tamgaly-Tas Gavan Biblioteka Bottom Level | |||||
6c+ | ★★★ Na doroge
The corner. First bolts are right of the corner. | 15m, 8 | |||
Almaty Tamgaly-Tas Gavan Zamanka | |||||
6c+ | ★★ Cheshirskiy kot
Steep start followed by delicate slab. | 13m, 8 | |||
6c/c+ | |||||
Almaty Tuyuk-Su Мемориал Альпинистов | |||||
6c/c+ | Что такое осень | 18m, 9 | |||
6c | |||||
Озеро Боровое Окжетпес (Слоник) | |||||
6c | 3 | ||||
Almaty Tamgaly-Tas Riverside Bastion | |||||
6c | ★★★ Iskry
Starts just right of Poezd. Slippery corner to overlap followed by easier climbing. | 18m, 6 | |||
Almaty Tamgaly-Tas Riverside Serpy | |||||
6c | Gnjozda
The rightmost bolted line. Spike belay on top of the ridge. Be careful of rope length when descending. | 30m, 15 | |||
6c | Shel s lastochkami
Don't climb this route between April and September. Swallows nest nearby Starts between Bieliy podtyok and Gnyozda. Climb to the small rooflet, traverse slightly right and continue up Gnyozda for a few metres. Traverse further right into corner and continue to top (spike belay). There are some old bolts, which should not be trusted. | 40m | |||
6c | ★★ Maliy serp
The first bolted line. Starts a underneath the corner/flake feature and finishes 2/3 of the way up the cliff. | 25m, 11 | |||
Almaty Tamgaly-Tas Riverside Enbek | |||||
6c | ★★ Orion
1
5b
2
6c
| 30m, 2, 18 | |||
6c | Sanatorii
1
6a
2
6c
| 35m, 2, 15 | |||
6c | ★★ Kykol'shik
1
6a
2
6c
| 35m, 2, 16 | |||
Almaty Tamgaly-Tas Riverside Gorod | |||||
6c | ★★ Otdelnaya realnost
Starts a few metres right of Sila bezmolviya. P1: 6a, 27m, 19 bolts. P2: Hard start followed by nice corner. 6c, 25m, 12 bolts. | 52m, 2, 22 | |||
6c | Shel Ratmira
Can be climbed in one pitch, but better as two. Doubles of #1-#3 cams are helpful. P1: Climb past first two bolts of Nagval and move right to corner. Climb corner and belay below rooflet. 6a. P2: Continue up crack until ridge. 6c. | 2, 2 | |||
Almaty Tamgaly-Tas Gavan Lev | |||||
6c | ★★ Bonifatsiy
Just left of Razminka. | 25m, 14 | |||
Almaty Tamgaly-Tas Gavan Yabloki | |||||
6c | ★★ Damskie palchiki
One or two hard moves to test your finger strength. For the grade, avoid the large pocket, and start on the right. | 10m, 5 | |||
Almaty Tamgaly-Tas Gavan Rebro Zhostkosti (The Rib) | |||||
6c | ★★ Asteriks
The obvious crack right of Cherep i pokryshka Move left in the thin crack after the horizontal. | 12m | |||
Almaty Tamgaly-Tas Gavan Zamanka | |||||
6c | Martovskiy zayats
| 10m, 5 | |||
Almaty Tamgaly-Tas Gavan Laboratoriya | |||||
6c | Маргарита
Common start with Бесимся | 28m, 13 | |||
Almaty Tamgaly-Tas Gavan Visyachiy Kamen (Hanging Rock) | |||||
6c | ★★ Navsikaya
Starts on the ledge right of Howl. | 35m, 2, 14 | |||
Almaty Tamgaly-Tas Gavan Winnie the Pooh | |||||
6c | ★★ Pyatachok
Starts on the ledge. Wise to clip the second bolt from the ground if you can. | 11m, 5 | |||
Almaty Tuyuk-Su Мемориал Альпинистов | |||||
6c | Хохол | 28m, 19 | |||
Almaty Азиатские скалы Спорт Марафон | |||||
6c | Атлантида
6c if you climb left of the bolts. Hasn't been climbed along the bolts yet. | 12m, 5 | |||
Almaty Водопад Бутаковка Upper | |||||
6c | Туз
| ||||
6c | Тюльпан
| ||||
6c | Freedom
Starts on the small boulder. | 15m, 8 | |||
Almaty Водопад Бутаковка Middle | |||||
6c | Башня
| 40m | |||
Almaty Peak Oktyabryonok Middle Bastion | |||||
6c | Мордор
1
6a
2
6c
3
5a
4
6b
5
6c
6
5b
Sparsely bolted trad route.
| 5 | |||
6b+/c | |||||
Almaty Tamgaly-Tas Gavan Yabloki | |||||
6b+/c | Trubochki s kremom
For the send you need to tackle the slab at the top rather than wussing out. | 20m, 10 | |||
6b - c | |||||
Almaty Tamgaly-Tas Riverside Enbek | |||||
6b - c | Поломай
| 18m, 9 | |||
6b - c | ★ То, чего не может быть
Follow the bolted line for intricate moves | 11m, 6 | |||
Almaty Tamgaly-Tas Riverside Prigorod | |||||
6b - c | Mescalito
Starts just above a boulder about 10-15m right of Cherez karniz. Climb right of the bolts for 6c, left for 6b. | 24m, 13 | |||
6b+ | |||||
Озеро Боровое Туфелька | |||||
6b+ | 2 | ||||
Озеро Боровое Окжетпес (Слоник) | |||||
6b+ | 5 | ||||
Bektau-Ata Sphinx | |||||
6b+ | Zheztyrnak
Short but interesting. This ends on the same ledge as Kazakhsha Kures. | 15m | |||
Almaty Tamgaly-Tas Riverside Bastion | |||||
6b+ | ★★ Liho
Stay right of the overlap/flake for the grade. | 15m, 7 | |||
Almaty Tamgaly-Tas Riverside Serpy | |||||
6b+ | ★ Chervyak
Starts a few metres left of Maliy serp, below the thin crack. Climb good crack to ledge then continue to top. Solid pro despite appearances. Some chipped holds. | 35m | |||
Almaty Tamgaly-Tas Riverside Enbek | |||||
6b+ | ★★★ Ekstremal'naya Atletika
1
5с
2
6b+
| 30m, 2, 17 | |||
Almaty Tamgaly-Tas Riverside Gorod | |||||
6b+ | ★★★ Koleso vremeni
Starts in the dihedral right of Skazki o sile. P1: Climb Dihedral to ledge (use a long draw on the first bolt). 6b+, 25m 11 bolts. P2: Continue to top. 6b, 20m, 11 bolts. | 45m, 2, 22 | |||
Almaty Tamgaly-Tas Gavan Yabloki | |||||
6b+ | Blin
1
6b+
2
5c
5c if you stop at the first set of anchors (after 8 bolts). | 2, 12 | |||
Almaty Tamgaly-Tas Gavan Biblioteka Bottom Level | |||||
6b+ | ★ Archipelag…
| 14m, 5 | |||
Almaty Tamgaly-Tas Gavan Zub | |||||
6b+ | Korennoy
| 25m, 10 |