Routes as trad in Mt Ololokwe area

See trip report here: https://www.mck.or.ke/new-climbs/the-shnoz-5-9-330m-at-ololokwe/

Alternate direct start: climb straight up to the palm tree just beneath the start of the third pitch, following the obvious nose that joins the feature above. 5.8x, second half of pitch unprotected but solid rock. Avoids the traverse pitch. (FA: James Mixon, Nicolle Richards, December 2019)

Approach: walk uphill from Lerata towards starting slabs below prominent white nose in gully (3hrs, following elephant tracks).

1. 25m 4c/16 Climb easily to small roof, turn roof at small break, and proceed boldly up slab to shelf & large flake/boulder belay.

2. 50m 4b/14 Cross slab leftwards to hollow corner. Up corner until bush stops progress, then step left around arête (20m). Climb easy slabs to belay in seat-sized cave below overhang.

3. 35m 5a/17 Proceed right around corner, then up blank slab following faint crack/overlap to shady tree. Traverse 5m right to belay on bush.

4. 58m 4a/14 Walk right around corner, then surmount small boulder on left (physical crux). Continue up slabs following lines of weakness to belay on tree roots below roof.

5. 45m ? Traverse left under overhang, then follow complex root system to shelf above. Climb grassy ledges to significant palm tree next to rock. Tree belay. A comfortable night can be had here (if not raining).

6. 20m 5a/17 Traverse right around arête (nuts) into vegetated corner. Udge up chimney/offwidth to escape rightwards onto sloping ledge. Belay at back of horizontal crack.

7. 20m 4c/16 Step back leftwards into chimney and pass convenient chockstones to large ledge. Clamber further up steep, vegetated gully and then rightwards over ledges to belay on prominent palm tree. Would combine nicely with previous pitch.

8. 20m A1, ? Climb up boulders in soggy cave in right-most gully (aid). Up large palm tree (à cheval?) to wide ledge, which continues rightwards around arête. Crawl coolly along ledge, to belay on small palm tree.

9. 20m 4a/14 Continue right around corner, over massive boulder, through thick vegetation to triangular clearing with elephant skull and striking fig tree. Climb short, steep wall to belay in copse.

Walk uphill (30m?) to right-hand gully.

1. 20m 4c/15 Scramble up broken blocks past vicious palm tree. Briefly chimney up, to exit left onto featured face (pigeon holes). Continue direct to ledge & tree belay.

2. 20m - Traverse left through cactus field and around corner to grassy ledge. F.A. party climbed 10m higher to nut belay under overhang; likely unnecessary.

Descend left-hand edge of grassy ledge 8m to vegetated plateau.

Walk (climbers') left following line of rock until upward-trending gully is reached. Continue further left to next gully.

1. 25m 4c/16 Gain large, flat boulder at right-hand end. A sporty move gains the overhanging slab (50°). Easily up gearless slab to tree & steep wall on right. Attain wall via tree, and belay from huge palm tree on top.

2. 50m 4a/13 Ascend filthy gully on right and then proceed leftwards to gain slab above belayer. Climb leftwards to arête and then turn corner to continue rightward onto upper slab. Continue over flat rock to belay in woodland.

Scramble upward and then left to finish.

Looking at the South Wall of Ololokwe from the junction of Wamba and Isiolo roads, there's a prominent nose - seen as a profile - that protrudes from the face about two-thirds of the way up. This is about 50 to 60 metres left of the Original route (Chambers’/Mwengela) that traverse up the grassy ledges. The route starts at a right facing corner and comes up to the nose. It follows a series of corners and slabs to reach the headwall below the nose. Up to the nose and around its left to the top.

1. Start at a prominent right-facing corner (not visible from the road). Follow this to a grassy ledge/terrace. Belay from tree. 55 metres

2. Climb face up and slightly left with poor protection. This leads to a belay at the cycad just below another right-facing corner. 30 metres

3. Up corner to a small overhang. Surmount this to good belay below bulging left wall. 30 metres

4. Up bulging wall and continue slightly right to reach a hanging belay at a large downward-facing flake/crack. 55 metres

5. Up left of belay through some well protected flakes. Then a long unprotected slab follows. Climb this up and left to the base of the headwall. Belay at the foot of crack/large flake directly below the prominent nose feature. 50 metres more like 30 m the bivi at the end of pitch 5 is ok for a party of two. More people should try to go to the vulture nest at the top of pitch 7, but time is necessary to reach it the first day. Alternatively, a small downward traverse to the left of the top of pitch 5 leads to a large ledge with space for a more comfortable bivouac (~10m from leftmost part of ledge at topo of pitch 5)

6. Follow crack to where it becomes too thin to climb free (about 10 metres). Then on aid (pegs and small gear) to pigeonhole below small overhang. 15 metres

7. Through overhang (on aid) then free climbing leads leftwards and onto the vulture ledge below the nose. This is a good bivi site (assuming one does not have to share with vultures). Alternatively bivi below and left of belay below pitch six where a cave is formed by a large leaning flake as was done on first ascent. 55 metres

8. The route follows the left side of the nose. A few acrobatic moves from belay lead to good cracks. Follow these, as they become increasingly vegetated. Belay behind large blocks just below tree. 50m

9. Continue through the tree and onto poorly protected slabs on left to vegetated terrace on the same level as the top of the nose. This pitch uses the full 60m rope length. First ascent party had to do a short intermediary pitch to reach the terrace. 60 metres

10. Scramble up the terrace to the base of a black wall. 20 metres (no climbing, just walking)

11. Use a prominent white route on the right to move up the black wall to a stance below downward-facing flake. 20 - 30m including a 10 m horizontal leftwards traverse on good footholds. Hanging belay at the flake

12. Left around the flake and then up onto another ledge below giant slab which spans a large gully. 20 metres

13. Climb through a tree growing out of the base in the centre of the slab and continue rightwards toward a corner. Up the corner onto another terrace. 20 metres

14. Move up rightwards into a corner toward a block which is climbed as a layback then off-width. Up this then another block to the final terrace. 20 - 30m

Walk up and right to the top.

Trip report here: http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201212958/Ololokwe-south-face-Mirage

Original Spanish route description (FA climbed rope-solo):

El primer largo es una chimenea de IV grado que va a buscar el inicio del gran arco visible de la parte inferior de la pared. Desde aquí siguen cuatro largos, unas veces por la fisura y otras por la placa hasta llegar al final del arco. El L6 sube unos metros en placa para, una vez superada la altura del gran arco, desplazarse en diagonal a la izquierda en V grado expuesto. La reunión se monta en una laja por debajo de una repisa herbosa. El L7 aprovecha la repisa herbosa para llegar a la base de una fisura donde empieza el primer largo de artificial de la vía. El L8 supera dos pequeños techos, el segundo de ellos se encuentra lleno de excrementos de pájaros así que sería recomendable evitarlo por la izquierda siguiendo el recorrido de la vía “Mirage”. Este largo te sitúa en una buena repisa debajo de la “gran nariz”, desde aquí se hace una corta travesía de unos 15 metros para situarse en el lado derecho (la vía “Mirage recorre el lado izquierdo). El L10 combina fisuras y diedros hasta llegar a un tramo de roca podrida, antes de llegar a él salimos a la placa para evitarlo por una sección con buenas presas, volviendo al diedro algo más arriba. Se trata de un tramo expuesto donde hay pocos sitios de protección. El L11 continúa por el diedro evitando una zona de vegetación casi llegando a la reunión. El L12 abandona el gran diedro utilizando una buena fisura a la derecha y una corta trepada te sitúa en la base de una placa vertical. Aquí buscamos el punto más alto donde poder pitonar para subirnos a los estribos y hacer una salida en libre de 6a+/6b. El L13 te sitúa en una gran repisa. El L14 supera una corta fisura para acceder a otra repisa que seguimos hacia la derecha, al acabar la repisa encontramos una fina fisura donde tendremos que volver a pitonar. Más arriba la fisura se ensancha y nos permitirá escalar. El L15 recorre una fisura en arco con tendencia a la izquierda y tiene dos pequeños péndulos o descuelgues para evitar zonas de roca de mala calidad. Después del segundo de ellos realizamos una travesía hacia la izquierda y subimos unos metros hasta un agujero donde podremos montar la reunión (recomendable guardarse un camalot #4 para montarla). El L16 te lleva directamente a la cima después de un tramo de placa de buenas presas equipado con dos chapas y un pitón (con tendencia a la izquierda).

English translation (if any errors noted please contact MCK):

The first pitch is a Grade IV chimney which starts up the large visible arch at the lower section of the wall. From here climb another four pitches, at times in the crack and at others on the slabby face until reaching the top of the arch. Pitch 6 climbs up a slab for a few metres to the top of the large arch before trending diagonally left through exposed Grade V climbing. The belay is at a block underneath a grassy ledge. For pitch 7 take this ledge until you reach the base of a crack for the first pitch of aid of the route. Pitch 8 climbs through two small roofs, the second of which is full of bird shit, so it might be better to avoid it by joining the route ‘Mirage’ on the left. Pitch 10 mixes cracks and dihedrals until reaching a section of rotten rock; before this section move onto the face on good holds before re-joining the dihedral further up. This section is exposed with few placements available. Pitch 11 keeps following the dihedral a good crack on the right, avoiding a patch of vegetation which almost goes up to the belay. Pitch 12 leaves the large dihedral, taking a good crack on the right and a short climb takes you to the base of a vertical face. From here place a piton as high as possible for a point of aid which enables the climber to reach higher and free the rest of the pitch at 6a+/6b. Pitch 13 follows a large ledge. Pitch 14 takes a short crack before reaching another ledge which is followed rightwards. At the end of this is another crack which will also require pitons to aid up. Higher up the crack widens and can be freed. Pitch 15 takes an arching crack which trends leftwards; the climber will need to perform two pendulum swings or be lowered to avoid bad rock in this section. After the second pendulum swing (or lower-off) traverse left and go up a few metres to a hole which can be used for a belay (best to keep a number 4 cam for this). Pitch 16 goes straight to the summit after a section of face climbing on good holds protected by two bolts and a piton (trending leftwards).

The 600 m of route break down as follows: Scrambling for 46 m, climbing (mainly rock) for 137 m, climbing (vegetation) for 61 m, carboniferous forest for 244 m and final forest for 122 m. First ascent recommended to take a panga, long ice-pitons for grass clump belays, anti-histamines, sunburn tablets, Fistimmons snakebite outfit, gloves to protect hands in the forest and handling rock after 1 p.m. on a sunny day, compass for descent, snowgoggles or dark glasses for sun glare, bathing costumes and soap. The grade is Severe, with "V2" for difficult "vertical mangrove swamp" to get through.

Time 10 hours campsite to campsite (6 hours up, 4 hours down) (12 hours on first ascent as a result of route- finding problems)

Start: Leave car at campsite under large thorn tree on bend in main Marsabit road. Walk (2 hours) over col connecting small hill with the main feature and scramble up to the bottom of a nose of rock which lead down from the broken, southernmost section of the crag. Start on the right hand side of this nose.

1. 150 ft. Scramble up the nose, bearing left.

2. 120 ft. The long corner. Ignoring the grotto on the right, belay a little way up the corner on the left. The overhang is easier than it looks, but the crack and corner above make a good sustained pitch. (Sack- hauling desirable for second).

3.3 180 ft. Climb diagonally up right on rock and grass.

4. 5.) 200 ft. The vertical mangrove swamp. (V2 to start only)

6.) At 150 ft water was found running in a cave.

1. 800 ft. The carboniferous jungle is penetrated to its top right-hand edge.

8.; 150 ft. Traverse right across the top of the long

9.) chimney.

1. 400 ft. The final forest leads to the top. Descent A small pool may be found on top, or a larger one by following a rock slab valley down to the east. The best route down is probably to be found by bearing north at first not east.

Source: MCK bulletin 59 (19664)

"A rising, grassy ramp" according to Alex Fiksman (http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201212958/Ololokwe-south-face-Mirage)

This route resulted from an attempt on the deep, palm filled chimney to the R of the Chambers route. Due to wet and slimy conditions in the chimney escape was made onto the R wall, just below the level of the palm trees. “This led to climbing on steep ball-bearing grass necessitating a grading of the climb as G2 and the bush near the top so thick and repelling as B3.” No detailed description of this route is available. The ascent took just over 7 hours and the descent by the Chambers route just over 2 hours. (description by Andrew Wielochowski )

A route heading straight up to the right side of the pillar. The climb starts on the top of a ramp near a small tree (possible to climb a first pitch below). All belays are bolted (enabling abseil if you bring your own karabiners/maillons). The route mixed trad/bolts and is very runout.

1. 45m. Head up tending leftwards to cross a small overhang, then clip a bolt. Continue straight up to a nice belay ledge.

2. 50m. From the ledge, head left to cross small overhangs then head straight up, clipping a bolt on the way. Stay on the rock to the right of a cascade of grass. The belay is at the top of the grass on a nice grassy ledge.

3. Traverse right for a couple of meters, then head straight up, clipping one bolt on the way. Belay in a black scoop.

4. Head up tending slightly leftwards. The rock isn't so good on this pitch but bolts protects the worst parts (still runout).

5. Traverse a bit right, then up and a bit more right to clip a bolt. Then head straight up, one more bolt. Aim between two grassy ledges, clipping one bolt. The left ledge has a palm tree sticking out, that's where the belay is.

6. Head straight up to the small steepening at the top of the slab. Clip one bolt below the steepening, then traverse right to a large cave above a big palm tree.

7. Belay on roots (no bolts) to traverse right and up out of the cave. Final belay on a tree.

Variation: A thrilling finish heading directly up the tree roots to the roof overhang above the large cave was climbed by Peter Naituli and Ian Lekiluai on the 3rd ascent (17th March 2022).

Access: you can abseil from the top, or walk to the bottom of the route. Walking, get to the bottom of the cliff, then stay low while you aim for the big rock with orange overhangs separated from the main wall. Walk around that wall and find a way up (some scramble might be needed). There's a small flat spot on top of some white rocks to camp. Abseil: walk to the end of the tourist path, then walk along the cliff to a boulder tucked inside a forest. Follow a rough trail down. You can ask MCK for a GPS track. Find your way into the cave, then get to the first belay and abseil down the route (two 60m ropes needed), it's more or less straight but easy to miss a belay.

An adventurous climb, generally on reasonable rock, that could be done without a bivouac by a fast party. Walking in on the traverse path from Sabache Eco Camp you arrive just above a broad saddle between the main cliff and a small outlying hill. Head up on faint paths directly up to pale, easy-angled slabs at the foot of the face. Scramble up the slabs, traverse L into trees, start about 10m further L, on a shady ledge below a R-facing flake crack.

1. 55m. 5a. Up the flake that works its way up R-wards. Near top of flake a medium-large cam may be placed. Use long runners to avoid rope drag. Pull out L on to the face and start a heady climb up and L to a block on a ledge, here a weighted sling and/or small wires offer some protection. Climb first L-wards then directly up a poorly protectable slab aiming towards a lone palm tree and excellent belay. Very poorly protected, sustained pitch, mainly on excellent rock.

2. 40m. 4c. Continue directly up passing several trees to broken grassy ledges, flake belay.

3. 55m. 4b/c. Up wide grassy, slabby corner R of belay for 10m. Move R below roof then up R-wards towards a small tree. Up to slabs and across these, poor protection, to chimney. Up this on poor rock and grass to jammed block belay.

4. 40m. Move up then R onto a slab, which is followed R-wards, with no protection, to a shattered rock corner. Up this steeply to ledge with spike belay.

5. 45m, 4b Climb up to the L, either choosing easy loose or slightly harder better rock to its left. Reach a short steep black wall with pockets for both protection and hands. Move up L to ledges. After a couple of nice mantel shelves traverse up and L to tree belay in grassy bay. A short 20m. scramble through grass leads to the base of the walls left of a great open diedre, possible bivvy site. Block belay.

6. 45m. 4c Approach the wall at a small shelf and traverse L 5m. Make your way up and L to the obvious tree.

7. 30m. 4b. Continue up and slightly L to tree on next ledge system below final headwall.

8. 30m. Scramble L to ledges with small trees, possible bivvy site.

9. 35m. 4a. At L end of bivvy ledges step down and L onto wall to gain good holds, up these onto a slab then R facing corner and the top.

(description via Andrew Wielochowski )

Likely has been a repeat ascent of Brothers in Arms.

Repeating groups should be able to complete the climb without an overnight bivouac. (Editors note – One person who has climbed it twice bivvied ¾ of the way up both times)

1. 170ft 5.9/HVS 5a/18. Start up an obvious flake that works its way from left to right. There is limited protection at the top of the flake, unless you have very large Camelot’s (#5-6). Use long runners to avoid rope drag. Pull out left on to the face and start a heady climb towards any protection you can find. There are a couple placements for micro cams or TCUs, but they are sparse. Work back right on a poorly protectable slab climbing aiming towards a lone palm tree. A perfect vertical crack above the tree provides solid placements for a gear anchor. Quite cheeky.

2. 175ft 5.7/ Severe 4c. Work up and right from the tree anchor on easy but flaky climbing that works its way towards obvious trees. Potential crack placements exist, if willing to excavate, but the climbing is easy enough to pretty well run it all the way to the trees. Proceed to a second group of trees. Work right towards to a blocky shelf that provides decent protection. Take caution not to launch any of the loose blocks on this section. Continue up from the shelf slight right to a small flake; be cautious of smaller loose blocks below flake. Traverse left of flake to anchor on the obvious blocky shelf.

3. 160ft 5.7 Severe 4b/c. Move up and right onto a steep slab, which is followed, with no protection, up to the right until a move across right gains access to a chimney. This is followed to a large jammed block belay.

4. 120ft 5.7/Severe 4b. Traverse right from the belay at an incline on loose shattered rock, little options for decent protection, reach the left hand side of the main wall. Then go up the vertical scree until you belly flop onto a flat area with an obvious rock for safe belay.

5. 170ft 5.8 /Severe 4b. Climb up to the left, either choosing easy loose or slightly harder better rock to its left. Reach a small wall with pockets for both gear and hands. Move up left and after a couple of nice mantel shelves traverse up left to belay.

6. 140ft Scramble. Move up from belay onto easy ground. Which is followed up and left through vegetation to a large flake belay in the middle of the left hand wall of the huge diedre.

7. 170ft 5.8/ Very Severe 4c. Approach the wall at a small shelf and proceed to traverse left 15 feet. Direct your gaze up the vertical wall and indulge your eyes in the glory revealed, protection & solid holds! Make your way up and left to the obvious tree and large boulder. As this is the first pitch to not crumble in your hands, take your time to relish in the climb. For those seeking exposure, grasp onto one of the many solid pink crystallized quartz clusters and glance downward from this vertical face to the 1000 feet view below.

8. 170ft Scramble. Move up left of the mini over hang and then pick your way up and left towards the tree lined corner of the bivvy site.

9. 120ft 4a/b. Exit bivvy ledge on the left out onto the slabs. Traverse up and left on short rock walls and grassy ledges to below final steep rock wall. Balance up on good holds onto unprotected slabs above, which are followed to a good belay on a large block. Summit.

1. Pitch one gains access to the wall from hummocks of blond grasses (5.9).

2. Pitch two tackles a small roof (5.11c)

3. to reach the blank, slabby dihedral of pitch three (5.10c).

4. Pitch four (The Roof) launches 25’ out into space, along a crack protected with a mix of gear and bolts (5.12d).

5. The Red Dihedral of Pitch five comprises the crux of the route (5.13a) and has incredible steep, dynamic crimping interspersed with a bizarre technical dihedral and slopers.

6. Pitch six climbs cave to cave along a black slab (5.11c).

7. The next two traversing pitches weave through moguls and cacti (5.11c and

8. 5.12a).

9. The Eyebrow, which can be seen from the ground, features the best crack climbing of the route. The Lo-Brow (5.11+) and

10. Hi-Brow (5.12b) place one beneath the final steep climbing of

11. Kate’s Pocket Pitch, an improbable bulge of smooth rock littered with deep incut pockets.

12. Two easier but engaging pitches with crispy rock lead to the summit (5.10 and

13. 5.11

100 Percent Not Losing (1,300’, 5.13a) had 13 pitches in all and requires a standard rack to number 3, 15 quickdraws, and extra runners. Each pitch was redpointed, with each individual contributing a critical lead to the team ascent, but in the end we were unable to complete a continuous free ascent. Climbing the route in a continuous push from the ground will be a proud and enjoyable experience that all the members of the FA team look forward to hearing about someday.

"It was 800 feet, 12 pitches up to 5.13a. Five 5.12s. There’s only one 5.10. There’s super runout 12c." It's partially bolted

Trip report here: http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214696/Samburu-Region-Mt-Ololokwe-100-Percent-Not-Losing

Mixed route. Waiting for description

This route finds a way up the slabs at the R end of the Main wall. Good climbing on good rock but little protection except where mentioned. Walking in on the traverse path from Sabache Eco Camp till you pass the watercourse draining the base of the slabs. Trails lead up and back R to the watercourse. Gain the ridge R of the watercourse and scramble up this for about 100m. Traverse back into the watercourse at the R side of a broad, darker streak coming down the slabs.

1. 45m. 4c. Climb up R of the black streaked area up to ledges and good belays.

2. 45m. 4c. Continue up till angle eases and big ledge system is reached. Good belays by twin caves.

3. 50m. 5b. 3m R of R most cave climb a steep slabby break between bulging walls, sustained thin climbing continues then eases and a big ledge is reached with line of bulges above. On first ascent a giant dead tree marked the R end of the ledges.

4. 30m. 4b. From R end of ledge climb a R-facing corner then traverse below roof line to its end, cramped ledge and belay. This point can be reached more directly. Either way is protectable.

5. 45m, 5a. Step R then up and R to ledge. Move slightly L then up, thin, a good runner is passed a bit higher, continue up in this line to a tree belay.

6. 45m. 4a. Slabs and earthy ledges lead up and R to poor tree belay.

7. 45m. 4a. Up slab to overlap, runners, now L facing corner, runners, continue more easily up slabs and earthy ledges to top.

Descent: Traverse keeping fairly high till above the camps the find path going down.

This climb is on the South face of Olo Olokwe about 150 metres to the right of a route put up by Howell/Higgins July 68. The highest part of shrub onto the face.

Pitch 1 46 m 5.8/5a

Start up an obvious flake that works its way from left to right. There is limited protection at the top of the flake, unless you have very large camelots (#5-6). Sling obvious but somewhat sketchy horn at the top of the flake with a long enough runner to avoid pulling the sling off with rope drag. Pull out on to the face and climb towards any protection you can find. There are a couple placements for micro cams or TCUs, but they are sparse and have long run outs in between. Work out left on the face in order to find better protection, of which, there was very little. Causing the first ascensionist, to sling a tuft of grass for mental duct tape. Work back left on an easy but poorly protectable slab climbing aiming towards a lone palm tree. A perfect vertical crack above the tree provides solid placements for a gear anchor.

Pitch 2 43 m 5.7/4c

Work up and right from the anchors on easy climbing that works its way towards obvious trees. Potential crack placements exist, if willing to excavate, but the climbing is easy enough to pretty well run it all the way to the trees. Work right after the second group of trees towards to a blocky section that provides decent protection. Take caution not to launch any of the loose blocks on this section and at the belay stance at an obvious ledge at the base of a gully.

Pitch 3 55 m 5.8/4c

Start up the shallow groove from obvious ledge bearing right, the very slippy black surface will guide you in that direction anyway. After 20ft there are some options for protection, tap tap. Some are better than others. Once you’ve got some gear in move right onto an overhanging block, then up the face for 30ft. When you reach a vertical wall traverse right, some lovely exposure, after about 50ft you meet an obvious chimney, thrutch up enjoying some wonderful climbing until you reach a tree, placed perfectly at the base of a steep wall. Just above the tree are excellent bomber belay placements, your last ones!!

Pitch 4 37 m 5.7/4b

Traverse right from the belay at an incline on loose shattered rock, little options for decent protection, reach the left hand side of the main wall. Then go up the vertical scree, wondering why are you not in Havanas having a cold beer instead. Until you belly flop onto a flat area with an obvious rock for safe belay. At this point the obvious rock revealed to be loose, as is everything around. This is after 6 hours climbing so a desicion was made to concentrate on getting down.

Pitch 5 27 m This was a BODY belay tension traverse across to the left to a large tree..the wizards oasis.

Then 4 full rope lengths rappel.

Start at the R side of the SW face.

1. 35m 4c. Climb a blank and partly vegetated slab to terrace. Move left along the bulge and round to the main face. Belay off a tree on the ledge. Move further along the ledge to begin pitch 2.

2. 35m 5c. Climb the obvious layback crack, heading for a tree at half-height. Blank-looking walls ensue and protection needs to be cunningly contrived on sustained pitch.

3. 20m 4b. Move up and right across the flake line to belay on shoulder.

4. 15m 4a. Traverse across the front face into the gully. Easily to the top.

Right side of SW-facing wall of Cat. The climb traverses in under the obvious horizontal flake/overhang and then takes the obvious line up the middle of the "R ear" of the cat.

1. 50m. From the gully on the right (S) side of cat. Walk up until a traverse left below the flake/overhang can be made. Then up following a shallow crack system tending slightly left-wards. Belay on the obvious ledge below broken wall.

2. 50m. Up broken wall first heading up and left, then straight up to bush/tree. Belay just above in the chimney.

3. 30m. Up the chimney to the top. Top out on the left.

Start a short way up from the traverse left of Bone People, at the base of the corner leading straight up to notch between the Cat’s ears on the SE side.

1. 45m 4c. Up corner to 2nd tree, traverse L to a grassy area then up and back R to comfortable ledge and poor belays.

2. 15m 4c. Up corner awkwardly, chockstone runner, to gain ledge then easier climbing to the notch.

Scramble up to the northeast face of the tower and work your way towards the back, taking the same route as you would take to walk to the top of the tower. Climb a crack trending diagonally rightwards to where it splits, and continue straight up. Traverse 3 m right along a jamming crack and then to top. Abseil descent off a tree at top of route.

The original route on the Mouse climbed the face just left of the N arete using a mixture of aid and free climbing. Subsequently climbed free, with new bolts added in 2019 now making it a very safe sport climb.

Start at a chimney at the Left side of the W face.

1. 10m. Climb the chimney then traverse left to easier ground leading to ledge, bolt belays.

2. 20m. Climb the steepening slab then wall above, old bolts and pegs in place, on creaky flakes.

Welcome to Level One. In your quest to unlocking the levels of the Snake Temple, this climb makes a fine introduction. Ascend the small chimney in the center of the wall and proceed to break right onto the face where fine flake cracks lead to the top. While racking up for this climb, the first ascensionists had a close encounter with a rather large and feisty black mamba when they found themselves between the dark serpent and a fleeing rock hyrax that it was pursuing.

Level Two - Hike down and round to the South facing wall of the temple where a superb adventure awaits. Start at an obvious crack mid-way along the base. An ascent of the lower tiers, trending R brings one to the main 'Black Mamba' platform at the base of a deep off-width chimney. Up this, for awkward yet enjoyable climbing with classic mountainous bush views back out of the chimney. Persist inside the chimney past a ledge below the top out, emerge next to the belay for "A Dance with the Black Mamba". The chimney is hard to protect unless you have very large cams. A good head and positive attitude should see you to the top of the squeeze.

One for the bold. Level 3: This climb tackles the most prominent off-width chimney at the heart of the crag. The crack is too wide to protect (unless one is armed with unreasonably wide gear). A delight for the crack climbing fanatics. Stay inside of the crack until exit at the top of the temple. There are multiple ways up the crevice. This climb is hard to grade as the climbing is only slightly strenuous. Though given this route is essentially a free solo, 'Apocalypto' warrants the E grade.

On the far right of the wall, a prominent crack rises R of a wide chimney. The route follows the crack to the top. Four men bled into this route on the first ascent. The crack is wide and quite loose. More ascents needed to determine grade.

Meandering route starting at faint corner crack towards the right of the wall.

(1) climb corner and belay at top.

(2) Do a long scramble L along grassy ledge to good tree belay near thorn bushes.

(3) Up awkward and vegetated steps with poor protection to belay at foot of detached flake.

(4) Up the flake to belay on tree below cave

(5) Climb overhang at mouth of cave and onto easier ground and either exit straight up through milky cacti or swing out left onto mantle shelf. Both options lead to a final belay on trees.

A thin crack and delicate moves lead up to bolt. From here the wall puts up less resistance until the top.

Has been climbed free by way of running out the first 7m to the bolt on delicate flakes just right of the crack. E2 5b

Approach the deep chimney through dense bush. Move left to a secondary chimney which peters out swiftly.

1. 4b (20 m) Climb the chimney, move right onto a slab and climb this to a belay on a ledge.

2. 5a (20 m) Move left to a crack, flanked on its left side by a simple slab. Climb this and surmount the capping overlap on its far right hand side. Move easily to the top. Descent: Scramble/climb to the top, from where an aerial is visible, from which a 4x4 track leads easily back to the road.

Up crack. Traverse rightwards around overhang to a ledge, then up a slab. Scramble to top and down.

Begin by scrambling up over broken ground to a short jamming crack in a slab left of a corner. Climb the crack and wall above to a steep, wide crack. Move right to a corner/groove and finish up this. To descend, bush bash down to the left - pure misery and a machete highly recommended.

1. -. Scramble up left hand side of pinnacle.

2. 5b. Step across onto wall, climb up crack for 5m. Traverse left on thin holds (no protection) to belay.

3. -. Traverse down and left to a tree, and abseil off.

Approach the prow of the buttress and step right to a steep slab with an obvious step at 1 foot.

1. 4b (20 m) Climb this slab, moving right to place gear in the flake on the right hand side. Traverse back left 8m then move up continuation slabs to a large vegetated ledge, walk up and left, up a straightforward gully to a large cave. Belay here.

2. 5a (20 m) Move right over blocks, then diagonally up and right across pockets to a sloping ledge below a capping overlap. Climb this via the well-protected crack, to top. Descend via the 4x4 track.

Follow an obvious crack to a roof, and pass it on either side. Abseil descent.

Pad up middle of a two-tiered slab following the easiest line. Scramble descent off the side.

Efthimia is elusive and beautiful. A climber's delight.

Efthimia can be found in a small crag among dense bush and lush trees, approximately 300m to the North-West of the Sabache eco-lodge gate. The crag is split by a large rock outcrop. This route is found on the right-hand side of the outcrop.

On the very edge of the aforementioned outcrop, a crack begins which climbs up and across to the very top of the rock face. The route is as follows:

1. 15m - Start in the far left corner of the crag, climb crack to a good platform (avoid the dodgy tree).

Build anchor in crack.

1. 20m - Continue along the widening crack for 3-5 m until reaching a roof section with nice pockets. Climb straight up.

Once reached, the summit provides a wave of gratification, as well as solid trees.

Start left around the corner from ‘Tim starter’ at the obvious detached block at the bottom. Climb up the right-hand side of a groove and traverse right. Follow crack over small overhang up to a second overhang. Traverse below this overhang and climb a layback crack to a large ledge. Belay here. Descent: As for ‘Tim Started’.

1. 5a (30 m) Start in the centre of the broken buttress. Climb the crack in the right-hand wall. Follow the crack direct on immaculate jams to gear. Go through a hole at the top.

2. 4a (10 m) Descend slightly to a small tree. Climb the broken and vegetated slabs behind the tree until you reach a steep corner. Climb this to the top. Descent: Abseil from a tree at crag-edge, roughly 20m left of the top of ‘Tim Started’, or walk out through bushes on the right-hand side of crag.

1. 4b (35 m). Up the featured slab 5 m left of the obvious, loose, left-facing corner. Keep left of the prominent hole in the slab and belay below a wide crack.

2. 5a (30 m). Awkward move over bulge, then follow crack up to cave. Climb slab in cave to the top, and a block belay on top of crag. Abseil descent off tree over to left of route. Don’t fall off the top of the crag walking over here though!

This route starts just behind the large tree on a ledge in the center of the cliff.

An excellent sport route that awaits a second pitch! Climb up a tricky intro to tackle a bulge. From above the bulge, mantle to an easy slab before one final steep section with thoughtful climbing. Be careful of some crumbly holds and rock, and at last visit a quite incredible amount of baboon poop at the base.

Longer than 30 m so have a 70 or 80 m rope if planning to lower off - you can abseil back to ledge with a 60 m rope though if you bring your partner up from the top.

This route offers varied and protected climbing on good rock. At the right end of the SW-facing cliff a prominent tree grows some 10m up the cliff. A 5min walk gains the cliff.

1. 10 m 5a. A short, steep unprotected wall is climbed on small positive holds, move right across a ledge to scoop and hence up to the tree.

2. 25 m 5a. Move up to steep corner and climb crack on good holds to easier ground and a reasonable belay.

3. 15 m 4b. Up cracks for 8m then move left, over bulge and back right to good belay.

4. 25 m. Traverse R to a grassy terrace.

5. 15 m 4a. Continue traverse right and gain a fig tree with slight difficulty to fix an abseil rope.

It is also possible to traverse from the top of pitch 2 up and left to gain abseil trees. The upper section of the cliff is best avoided!

(Most of this write up was taken from the MCK write up, as it's a slightly different route to the original (unnamed) route thats written up currently)

This route offers varied and protected climbing on good rock. At the right end of the SW-facing cliff a prominent tree grows some 10m up the cliff. A 5min walk gains the cliff.

1. 10 m 5a. A short, steep unprotected wall is climbed on small positive holds, move right across a ledge to scoop and hence up to the tree.

2. 25 m 5a. Move up to steep corner and climb crack on good holds to easier ground and a reasonable belay, building your anchor in a medium sized crack.

3. 20m Traverse. Move up about 2m from the Belay and then start traversing left. Will get to a good platform to rest on and a tree far left to rap down from. Drop is about 40m.

A steep climb on good rock with adequate protection.

1. 45m 5a. Climb the main crack system with occasional minor side-steps to tree belay and good abseil point.