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Kasigau

  • Grade context: UK
1
FR
5a+

Description

The cliff is some 300m. high and so far only one route has been accomplished - up a central fault line. There appears to be potential for a long, hard and very steep line to be forced further R in a comer/crack. In the lower half the cliff is composed of bands of featureless slabs with smooth walls above. Although the rock is good, protection is difficult to find.

Abseil tree

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Access issues

Private land?

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Approach

Driving from Voi to Mombasa the dome may be seen on R side of the road. The dome is reached by turning R at a village called Maungu, 30 km. SE of Voi, onto a good dirt road and taking this for a further 30 km.

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Where to stay

Possible camping spots below the cliff.

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Ethic

Please check with landowner.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Mountain Club of Kenya (Copyright Mountain Club of Kenya)

Routes

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Grade Route

100m. of slabs lead to the fault proper. Halfway up slabs, note a long roof with large tree at its R-hand end. 2 pitches reach the tree, the last moves being the crux. Above tree gain the upper slab and make a long L- trending traverse, bolt runner near end. Walk up through trees till the fault can be entered on R. Traverse L below an overhang (bolt just Rof crack). Fine chimney climbing follows. The final section to the summit is forested. On the 1st ascent skulls were found in a cave on the summit.

FA: Ian Howell & Iain Allan, 1974

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