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Upper Bastard Bush Buttress

  • Grade context: UK
  • Photos: 1

Summary

Good looking cliff (from afar) with only 3 known routes.

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Access issues inherited from Mt Ololokwe area

Conservancy fees need to be paid to Namunyak Conservancy for access to most climbing areas. Sabache Camp can advise on this and guides.

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Approach

If you're not Hot Rock people, then you'll probably drive to the antennas and abseil down rather than try to walk through the bush.

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Ethic inherited from Mt Ololokwe area

Kenyan climbing ethics apply; anything that can be protected with natural protection should be, and climbers should leave no trace and be respectful of the incredible nature and local culture. Some practices seen in the valley to be avoided by future developers include: painting route names on rocks, overbolting and bolting of naturally protectable routes, and retro-bolting of

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History

History timeline chart

Developed by a Hot Rocks Expedition in 2005.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Mountain Club of Kenya (Copyright Mountain Club of Kenya)

Routes

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Grade Route

Begin by scrambling up over broken ground to a short jamming crack in a slab left of a corner. Climb the crack and wall above to a steep, wide crack. Move right to a corner/groove and finish up this. To descend, bush bash down to the left - pure misery and a machete highly recommended.

FA: Rob Dyer & Matt Fritschi, 2005

  1. -. Scramble up left hand side of pinnacle.

  2. 5b. Step across onto wall, climb up crack for 5m. Traverse left on thin holds (no protection) to belay.

  3. -. Traverse down and left to a tree, and abseil off.

FA: Rich Patterson & Kate Moss

1 VS 4b 20m
2 VS 5a 20m

Approach the prow of the buttress and step right to a steep slab with an obvious step at 1 foot.

  1. 4b (20 m) Climb this slab, moving right to place gear in the flake on the right hand side. Traverse back left 8m then move up continuation slabs to a large vegetated ledge, walk up and left, up a straightforward gully to a large cave. Belay here.

  2. 5a (20 m) Move right over blocks, then diagonally up and right across pockets to a sloping ledge below a capping overlap. Climb this via the well-protected crack, to top. Descend via the 4x4 track.

FA: Duncan Bell & Nadan Pines, 2005

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