Logbook
Help

Baboon Cliff

  • Grade context: UK
  • Photos: 40
  • Ascents: 63
  • Aka: Animal Farm Crag

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Description

The routes here are mostly overbolted, making them an excellent choice for a budding sport leader. Take 12-18 draws for all the routes on the main wall unless you feel like skipping some. The routes on main wall typically require at least a 60 meter rope, with Modern Warrior requiring a 70m. There are also some trad climbs on the left side of the cliff.

Access issues inherited from Mt Ololokwe area

Conservancy fees need to be paid to Namunyak Conservancy for access to most climbing areas. Sabache Camp can advise on this and guides.

©

Approach

From the Sabache camp, hike toward A2 for 10 minutes until a trail with a painted sign is found on the left. From here it's a 5-minute walk to the cliff.

Ethic inherited from Mt Ololokwe area

Kenyan climbing ethics apply; anything that can be protected with natural protection should be, and climbers should leave no trace and be respectful of the incredible nature and local culture. Some practices seen in the valley to be avoided by future developers include: painting route names on rocks, overbolting and bolting of naturally protectable routes, and retro-bolting of

©

History

History timeline chart

First trad climbs probably established by a Hot Rocks team in 2005, but Baboon Cliff got much more attention from 2018 when a visiting German team bolted several routes, with more added since.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Mountain Club of Kenya (Copyright Mountain Club of Kenya)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route

Hard route on the left of the big boulder at Baboon Cliff (to the left of New Home for Nkukupa). Very bouldery, overhanging start before tricky, blank slab climbing.

FA: Jan 2019

Named in honour of the black scorpion hiding behind a big flake pulled off the route. Fun, varied vertical climbing with a sting in its tail! On the big rock perpendicular to Baboon Cliff proper.

FA: IanT & Fish Shah, Aug 2019

Furthest left climb on the main wall of baboon cliff. Fun moves with two cruxes at the third and fourth bolt and then again at the final overhang.

2nd route from the left on the main wall. Powerful, bouldery start to establish yourself on the first ledge, before some technical moves until above the 4th bolt. More mellow middle section before the final, tricky overhang before the anchors. Take care - there may still be a couple of loose flakes.

To the left of modern warrior, route bolted by Kristofer Fiore. Not sure about difficulty

FA: Kris Fiore & Luke Mendola, 19 Jan 2020

Longest route at baboon cliff. The opening 10-15m are the crux, with tricky slab climbing on small edges up to a ledge. Then mellower slab to a huge ledge, before the final fun moves up a detached boulder to the anchor.

Crux at the end. Shares anchor with No Hurry in Kenya

Extended crux at the end with some delicate, technical moves on small holds. Shares anchor with Twende

Follow bolts directly, with crux in the dark section at the top. Becomes 5c if you move left of the bolts at the crux

Fairly consistent, moderate slab climbing, with a few delicate moves in the upper section

Crux at blank section around 5th bolt

Shorter climb on far right with higher start in chimney and anchor sitting lower down.

Efthimia is elusive and beautiful. A climber's delight.

Efthimia can be found in a small crag among dense bush and lush trees, approximately 300m to the North-West of the Sabache eco-lodge gate. The crag is split by a large rock outcrop. This route is found on the right-hand side of the outcrop.

On the very edge of the aforementioned outcrop, a crack begins which climbs up and across to the very top of the rock face. The route is as follows:

  1. 15m - Start in the far left corner of the crag, climb crack to a good platform (avoid the dodgy tree).

Build anchor in crack.

  1. 20m - Continue along the widening crack for 3-5 m until reaching a roof section with nice pockets. Climb straight up.

Once reached, the summit provides a wave of gratification, as well as solid trees.

FA: Bernard Moulins & Sean Grobler, 21 Apr 2019

Start left around the corner from ‘Tim starter’ at the obvious detached block at the bottom. Climb up the right-hand side of a groove and traverse right. Follow crack over small overhang up to a second overhang. Traverse below this overhang and climb a layback crack to a large ledge. Belay here. Descent: As for ‘Tim Started’.

FA: Matt Fritschi & Nadan Pines, 2005

1 VS 5a 30m
2 VS 4a 10 m
  1. 5a (30 m) Start in the centre of the broken buttress. Climb the crack in the right-hand wall. Follow the crack direct on immaculate jams to gear. Go through a hole at the top.

  2. 4a (10 m) Descend slightly to a small tree. Climb the broken and vegetated slabs behind the tree until you reach a steep corner. Climb this to the top. Descent: Abseil from a tree at crag-edge, roughly 20m left of the top of ‘Tim Started’, or walk out through bushes on the right-hand side of crag.

FA: Matt Fritschi & Nadan Pines, 2005

Spot a flake 10 m up and 15 m right of ‘Tim starter’. Climb towards it. At 7 m, disturb a massive bees nest and get chased off the crag by a squadron of angry insects, losing a rope in the process. Descent: rapid.

FA: Duncan Bell, Rich Patterson & Nadan Pines, 2005

  1. 4b (35 m). Up the featured slab 5 m left of the obvious, loose, left-facing corner. Keep left of the prominent hole in the slab and belay below a wide crack.

  2. 5a (30 m). Awkward move over bulge, then follow crack up to cave. Climb slab in cave to the top, and a block belay on top of crag. Abseil descent off tree over to left of route. Don’t fall off the top of the crag walking over here though!

FA: Rob Dyer, Duncan Bell & Kate Moss, 2005

Did you know?

Did you know that you can create an account to record, track and share your climbing ascents? Thousands of climbers are already doing this.

Activity

Check out what is happening in Baboon Cliff.

Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 中文