Baboon Cliff Mostly Sport climbing 17 routes in cliff

Hard route on the left of the big boulder at Baboon Cliff (to the left of New Home for Nkulupa). Very bouldery, overhanging start before tricky, blank slab climbing.

Named in honour of the black scorpion hiding behind a big flake pulled off the route. Fun, varied vertical climbing with a sting in its tail! On the big rock perpendicular to Baboon Cliff proper.

2nd route from the left on the main wall. Powerful, bouldery start to establish yourself on the first ledge, before some technical moves until above the 4th bolt. More mellow middle section before the final, tricky overhang before the anchors. Take care - there may still be a couple of loose flakes.

Longest route at baboon cliff. The opening 10-15m are the crux, with tricky slab climbing on small edges up to a ledge. Then mellower slab to a huge ledge, before the final fun moves up a detached boulder to the anchor.

Efthimia is elusive and beautiful. A climber's delight.

Efthimia can be found in a small crag among dense bush and lush trees, approximately 300m to the North-West of the Sabache eco-lodge gate. The crag is split by a large rock outcrop. This route is found on the right-hand side of the outcrop.

On the very edge of the aforementioned outcrop, a crack begins which climbs up and across to the very top of the rock face. The route is as follows:

1. 15m - Start in the far left corner of the crag, climb crack to a good platform (avoid the dodgy tree).

Build anchor in crack.

1. 20m - Continue along the widening crack for 3-5 m until reaching a roof section with nice pockets. Climb straight up.

Once reached, the summit provides a wave of gratification, as well as solid trees.

Start left around the corner from ‘Tim starter’ at the obvious detached block at the bottom. Climb up the right-hand side of a groove and traverse right. Follow crack over small overhang up to a second overhang. Traverse below this overhang and climb a layback crack to a large ledge. Belay here. Descent: As for ‘Tim Started’.

1. 5a (30 m) Start in the centre of the broken buttress. Climb the crack in the right-hand wall. Follow the crack direct on immaculate jams to gear. Go through a hole at the top.

2. 4a (10 m) Descend slightly to a small tree. Climb the broken and vegetated slabs behind the tree until you reach a steep corner. Climb this to the top. Descent: Abseil from a tree at crag-edge, roughly 20m left of the top of ‘Tim Started’, or walk out through bushes on the right-hand side of crag.

Spot a flake 10 m up and 15 m right of ‘Tim starter’. Climb towards it. At 7 m, disturb a massive bees nest and get chased off the crag by a squadron of angry insects, losing a rope in the process. Descent: rapid.

1. 4b (35 m). Up the featured slab 5 m left of the obvious, loose, left-facing corner. Keep left of the prominent hole in the slab and belay below a wide crack.

2. 5a (30 m). Awkward move over bulge, then follow crack up to cave. Climb slab in cave to the top, and a block belay on top of crag. Abseil descent off tree over to left of route. Don’t fall off the top of the crag walking over here though!