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Judas and Nimble

  • Grade context: UK
3
FR

Description

Several hundred yards up the road from Nemesis are two large boulders a few yards from the road. The lower has an obvious bulging crack line. This is 'Judas'. The second boulder has an ascending traverse line and a harder line up the centre of the face. This is 'Nimble'.

2021 Editor's note: The topo photos here are guesses as these are somewhat forgotten crags. If you come and repeat these lines and can confirm the lines please get in touch with the MCK!

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Access issues inherited from Lukenya

Lukenya is owned by the Mountain Club of Kenya and entrance is free for members. Non-members have to pay for daily membership (KES400 for Kenyan citizens, KES800 for others, payable by Mpesa Paybill No. 880926, account: guest fee). No commercial groups are allowed without prior agreement from MCK. Some climbs are occasionally off-limits when eagles are nesting (in particular Eagle's Nest Face). If this is the case it is normally communicated on a notice in the sign-on book at the gate, through a climber Whatsapp group and on the relevant page on theCrag. There are many other wild animals that call Lukenya home, including a resident leopard, snakes, hyenas. In general, these will all stay well out of your way, but be aware at night and avoid confrontations with bigger grazers like giraffes or eland. This is a wild place, so treat it with respect, pack out any rubbish, and bury human waste at least 30 cm underground (bring a spade or trowel!).

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Ethic inherited from Lukenya

Lukenya is mostly trad, with some specific sport crags. No bolting is allowed without special permission from the Mountain Club of Kenya - get in touch with them if you think you have spotted a sport route, think there should be an extra bolt on a climb, see some degraded equipment, etc. Avoid cutting down any vegetation beyond a few bush branches - if you think a particular tree poses a real danger to climbers please bring this to the attention of MCK. Don't harass any of the local, sometimes rare wildlife.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Mountain Club of Kenya (Copyright Mountain Club of Kenya)

Routes

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Grade Route

Layback up the crack, then up to roof. Traverse right, then up bulging crack to ledge. Climb lichen bulge above.

FA: Iain Allan & Ian Howell, 1972

Start on boulder to the right-hand end of this crag. Step onto the face and follow the traverse line to the tree. Easy rock above.

FA: Iain Allan & Ian Howell, 1972

A two-move wonder but worth the visit for those two moves. The 4th buttress up the hill from Nemesis, it is the obvious one an the corner. The face has lichen all over with a dark, clean band up it. Start on the far right of the face as it's undercut to the left. Use the sloping holds to get through the overhang and pull around on lichen-filled holes. Traverse the break on lichen to the dean band and follow it to the top (natural pro).

FA: W. Frost & S. Mills, 2001

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