Routes as trad in Window Buttress

This exciting route takes the steep face between El Duende and Rear Window, beginning on the corner buttress. Start up right of obvious flake to 15 feet, traverse right onto face below overhang. Up right to obvious ledge/foothold, step left and move up to below overhang: then through overhang up to meet jugs on top (natural pro).

In the general area to the left of El Duende, clip First bolt of El Duende, move left and over small bulge and up to overhang. Straight through overhang to top. The opener has granted permission for a bolt near the bottom to allow climbers to start left and independent of El Duende.

This route is hard to beat Sustained, stylish moves in a superb position guarantee it a place at the top of the best there is at Lukenia. It climbs the orange wait of the obvious prow on the right of Window Buttress. Start 6m right of Dream Twister at a corner crack which is easily climbed for 3m to a small ledge on the right. Make the most of this - it is the last rest on the climb. Two small wires (#2 and #3 RP's), can be rigged here to protect the tricky move up to the first bolt. The route veers rightwards below the first bolt then up to the obvious bulging grey wall which is the crux of the route (bolt on right). Above the grey wall, the climb continues with difficulties to the third bolt. Steep, delicate climbing leads directly above to the top.

Worth the effort. The pro exists but the final 9m is guaranteed to make the boys shiver in their megas. Take a #0 RP along and save it for after the overhang. Start on left side of cliff beneath obvious flake/crack. Up flake, step left, up slightly then rnantle shelf to good ledge. Move right to orange wall and bolt. Up awkwardly leftwards to ledge below groove. Ignore this and step right to another ledge. The trick is to now reach the steep slab which lies above over the overhang. This is best done by delicately stepping up, then gingerly making a long step leftwards to a srnall sloping ledge on lip of overhang below a thin vertical crack. Climb this (crux) and continue carefully to top.

Originally led without the bolt this little climb then packed a wallop. Go up the gully on the right of the Buttress to base of prominent arete immediately right of steep portion of cliff. Start directly below arete which is climbed to horizontal break. Bolt above. Step right, up, then left above bolt to easier ground. Continue left to good position on skyline. Straight up to top.