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Cave Crag

  • Grade context: UK
  • Photos: 2
  • Ascents: 7

Seasonality

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Description

Between Archway and Egyptian Crags a grassy gully leads into the hillside. Some 50m up this on the left is Cave Crag. A rough, little-climbed crag with a deep cave in its centre.

Recommended routes: Gaza HVS 5b

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Access issues inherited from Lukenya

Lukenya is owned by the Mountain Club of Kenya and entrance is free for members. Non-members have to pay for daily membership (KES400 for Kenyan citizens, KES800 for others, payable by Mpesa Paybill No. 880926, account: guest fee). No commercial groups are allowed without prior agreement from MCK. Some climbs are occasionally off-limits when eagles are nesting (in particular Eagle's Nest Face). If this is the case it is normally communicated on a notice in the sign-on book at the gate, through a climber Whatsapp group and on the relevant page on theCrag. There are many other wild animals that call Lukenya home, including a resident leopard, snakes, hyenas. In general, these will all stay well out of your way, but be aware at night and avoid confrontations with bigger grazers like giraffes or eland. This is a wild place, so treat it with respect, pack out any rubbish, and bury human waste at least 30 cm underground (bring a spade or trowel!).

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Approach

Park at picnic tree then walk along the base of the cliffs to the left (facing the hill) until you get to the gully just before Egyptian crag. Cave crag is just above Egyptian crag. Just bash through the gully to reach it. If you continue up this gully, you'll get to Cemetery Wall and Eagle's Nest crag.

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Descent notes

Walk down to the climber's right of the cliff to get back into the gully.

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Ethic inherited from Lukenya

Lukenya is mostly trad, with some specific sport crags. No bolting is allowed without special permission from the Mountain Club of Kenya - get in touch with them if you think you have spotted a sport route, think there should be an extra bolt on a climb, see some degraded equipment, etc. Avoid cutting down any vegetation beyond a few bush branches - if you think a particular tree poses a real danger to climbers please bring this to the attention of MCK. Don't harass any of the local, sometimes rare wildlife.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Mountain Club of Kenya (Copyright Mountain Club of Kenya)

Routes

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Grade Route

At the top of the left branch of the gully is a cleft with a small bush at its base. Climb cleft to point of overhang, move onto right wall where easy climbing leads to the top.

FA: F. Richardson, A. Owen & W. M. Adams

Start 2m left of Jericho Wall. Climb directly to horizontal crack above the start. Finger traverse right until the pigeon hole is reached. Move left-handed across slab to finish. Has received few repeats over recent years, hence still retaining the old XS grade. Has a reputation for being quite thin and unprotected, around 6b French difficulty - feedback on a modern grade update welcome!

FA: R.A. Bennett, 1959

Start well up left-hand gully from point of small boulder below a tiny fig tree in a pigeon hole on the wall at 4.5m. Step on to wall and climb to horizontal crack. Hand traverse right and mantleshelf onto small ledge. At right hand edge climb groove to platform and top. Abseil off the tree just below the top.

FA: W.M. Adams, 1959

To the left of Cave Crack is a prominent pillar. Start at the bottom and climb up on the corner/pillar. Below the bolt you can place a few runners. Crux around the bolt (which can be a bit tricky to clip). Continue past bolt and easily to top.

FA: Ulf Carlsson & Iain Allan

FA: R. A. Bennett & F. Richardson, 1959

Climb slab on right in cave to platform below overhang. At point of cave and overhang is a steep shelf leading diagonally left and up. Hand traverse along this and into the crack then onto the left face. From here easier rock leads to finish on wide ledge with belay. Probably one or two grades harder if below six feet, as the opening move will require a dynamic latch onto the rail, swinging out over a sizeable drop down the boulder. Take care for the follower as well - too much slack and a fall on the rail at the start would mean hitting the ground, not enough will pull the climber off the wall.

FA: R. Caulkwell, 1954

Start up the semi-detached block with a big rightwards slanting crack to the right of Cave Crack. Over this (crux), then easier to the top over broken ground.

FA: Hamish Wilson & Lindsay Bingaman, 2017

Start 9m to the right of the cave, where there is a semi-detached piece of rock. Step from slab to point of semi-detached piece of rock. Traverse left and ascend steep wall directly to ledge with belay. Finish directly up groove behind belay. An alternative finish may be made by moving right from the belay ledge, up a small wall and over final boulder.

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