Archway Boulder

  • Grade context: UK
  • Photos: 3


The huge boulders at the top of Archway.


Access issues inherited from Lukenya

Lukenya is owned by the Mountain Club of Kenya and entrance is free for members. Non-members have to pay for daily membership (KES400 for Kenyan citizens, KES800 for others, payable by Mpesa Paybill No. 880926, account: guest fee). No commercial groups are allowed without prior agreement from MCK. Some climbs are occasionally off-limits when eagles are nesting (in particular Eagle's Nest Face). If this is the case it is normally communicated on a notice in the sign-on book at the gate, through a climber Whatsapp group and on the relevant page on theCrag. There are many other wild animals that call Lukenya home, including a resident leopard, snakes, hyenas. In general, these will all stay well out of your way, but be aware at night and avoid confrontations with bigger grazers like giraffes or eland. This is a wild place, so treat it with respect, pack out any rubbish, and bury human waste at least 30 cm underground (bring a spade or trowel!).


Ethic inherited from Lukenya

Lukenya is mostly trad, with some specific sport crags. No bolting is allowed without special permission from the Mountain Club of Kenya - get in touch with them if you think you have spotted a sport route, think there should be an extra bolt on a climb, see some degraded equipment, etc. Avoid cutting down any vegetation beyond a few bush branches - if you think a particular tree poses a real danger to climbers please bring this to the attention of MCK. Don't harass any of the local, sometimes rare wildlife.


Some content has been provided under license from: © Mountain Club of Kenya (Copyright Mountain Club of Kenya)


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The obvious cleft with remains of a tree in its depths.

FA: R. Baillie, 1964

The steep corner above the small cave 8m right of ‘Roman Candle’. Peg for protection in place.

FA: R. Baillie, 1964

An airy and scenic traverse that takes you aloft and across the top of archway boulder. Nice moves, great gear. Contrived? Never! Start from the large tree on the far right end of the boulder - you’ll have to scamper up to it from the belay at the finish of boilerplate. From there, head left - starting with the lovely diagonal finger crack which then moves onto the lichenous face overlooking tramlines etc. Step around the nose and finish up at the tree on the top. Make sure you stop for a selfie. Enjoy!

FA: Hamish & Lindsay, 28 Dec 2021

The overhanging crack above the cave. Jammed nuts to start, one peg in place.

FA: R. Baillie, 1964

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