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Sugar Loaf

  • Grade context: UK

Description

From the North Picnic Tree half left, Upper Cliffs forms the skyline cliff, showing a dark chimney at the right-hand end. From South Picnic Tree the crag shows as a large crag on the right-hand skyline. On the left-hand side, separated from the main cliff by a large gully is Sugar Loaf., a square, lichenous rock with a prominent central gully.

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Access issues inherited from Lukenya

Lukenya is owned by the Mountain Club of Kenya and entrance is free for members. Non-members have to pay for daily membership (KES400 for Kenyan citizens, KES800 for others, payable by Mpesa Paybill No. 880926, account: guest fee). No commercial groups are allowed without prior agreement from MCK. Some climbs are occasionally off-limits when eagles are nesting (in particular Eagle's Nest Face). If this is the case it is normally communicated on a notice in the sign-on book at the gate, through a climber Whatsapp group and on the relevant page on theCrag. There are many other wild animals that call Lukenya home, including a resident leopard, snakes, hyenas. In general, these will all stay well out of your way, but be aware at night and avoid confrontations with bigger grazers like giraffes or eland. This is a wild place, so treat it with respect, pack out any rubbish, and bury human waste at least 30 cm underground (bring a spade or trowel!).

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Approach

From the North Picnic Tree half left, Upper Cliffs forms the skyline cliff, showing a dark chimney at the right-hand end.

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Ethic inherited from Lukenya

Lukenya is mostly trad, with some specific sport crags. No bolting is allowed without special permission from the Mountain Club of Kenya - get in touch with them if you think you have spotted a sport route, think there should be an extra bolt on a climb, see some degraded equipment, etc. Avoid cutting down any vegetation beyond a few bush branches - if you think a particular tree poses a real danger to climbers please bring this to the attention of MCK. Don't harass any of the local, sometimes rare wildlife.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Mountain Club of Kenya (Copyright Mountain Club of Kenya)

Routes

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Grade Route

Start at left-hand end of face at bushy gully. Climb buttress on right beside gully.

Start immediately on left of central gully. Climb straight up.

Start immediately on right on central gully. Climb straight up to wide ledge, move in towards gully, then straight up to finish.

Start 20m to the right of Treacle at corner. Climb to loose flakes and then to wide ledge of Treacle, for the same finish.

At right-hand corner of face a wedge has fallen away to form a groove at back of platform. Start from platform. Climb groove to point, move left onto small ledge and straight up to wide ledge. Above, thin brown- grey wall leads to finish and small tree for belay a few feet away.

FA: Grading Committee, 1959

Start at right-hand end of platform in Demerara. Vague groove leads right across wall. Ascending traverse along groove until possible to go straight up aiming for little tree at top.

FA: Grading Committee, 1959

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