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Practice Wall

  • Grade context: UK
  • Ascents: 11
  • Aka: Sword Cliff

Seasonality

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Description

About 200m right of the North Picnic Tree along the base of the cliff line is a small crag.

Recommended routes: Number Two — V.S. Number Three — S

A 2000 MCK Bulletin mentions a 'new' crag called Sword Cliff with 3 routes, but this is a mistake - Sword Cliff is Practice Wall.

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Access issues inherited from Lukenya

Lukenya is owned by the Mountain Club of Kenya and entrance is free for members. Non-members have to pay for daily membership (KES400 for Kenyan citizens, KES800 for others, payable by Mpesa Paybill No. 880926, account: guest fee). No commercial groups are allowed without prior agreement from MCK. Some climbs are occasionally off-limits when eagles are nesting (in particular Eagle's Nest Face). If this is the case it is normally communicated on a notice in the sign-on book at the gate, through a climber Whatsapp group and on the relevant page on theCrag. There are many other wild animals that call Lukenya home, including a resident leopard, snakes, hyenas. In general, these will all stay well out of your way, but be aware at night and avoid confrontations with bigger grazers like giraffes or eland. This is a wild place, so treat it with respect, pack out any rubbish, and bury human waste at least 30 cm underground (bring a spade or trowel!).

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Approach

Park at North Picnic Tree (Main Wall parking) and head right parallel to the wall along goat tracks.

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Ethic inherited from Lukenya

Lukenya is mostly trad, with some specific sport crags. No bolting is allowed without special permission from the Mountain Club of Kenya - get in touch with them if you think you have spotted a sport route, think there should be an extra bolt on a climb, see some degraded equipment, etc. Avoid cutting down any vegetation beyond a few bush branches - if you think a particular tree poses a real danger to climbers please bring this to the attention of MCK. Don't harass any of the local, sometimes rare wildlife.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Mountain Club of Kenya (Copyright Mountain Club of Kenya)

Routes

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Grade Route

Start at left-hand end of crag, some 2m left of sharp corner, at two pocket holds. Move right under bush and take wall above direct.

FA: Grading Committee, 1959

Start 4m to right of crack mentioned in Number Three.

Start 2m to right of Number Five where there is a mantleshelf about 1m up. Continue climbing, passing to right of a small bush near the top.

Start at right-hand end of crag. Up pile of boulders 3m to platform. Traverse left along wide ledge to hole ascend wall above passing to right of bush. Traverse left above bush, straight up to finish.

Start 6m from right angle junction of blocks at end of face. A minute crack running straight up.

Start some 20m right of Number One at two parallel rock faults. Climb left-hand fault 4.5m then move to right- hand fault and follow to top.

FA: Grading Committee, 1959

Start 2m to left of 1m dark vertical crack at base of rock. After a thin start move left under middle of red overhang, which is taken direct.

FA: Grading Committee, 1959

Start immediately to right of vertical crack mentioned in Number Three. Ascend wall direct.

FA: Grading Committee, 1959

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