Dunman's Face

  • Grade context: UK


Some 400m north of the North Picnic Tree at the base line of the cliffs are three very broken rock ribs. Dunman’s Rib, the centre of the area and Dunman’s Face, the right-hand rib, offer climbing. The left-hand rib offers nothing worth mentioning.


Access issues inherited from Lukenya

Lukenya is owned by the Mountain Club of Kenya and entrance is free for members. Non-members have to pay for daily membership (KES400 for Kenyan citizens, KES800 for others, payable by Mpesa Paybill No. 880926, account: guest fee). No commercial groups are allowed without prior agreement from MCK. Some climbs are occasionally off-limits when eagles are nesting (in particular Eagle's Nest Face). If this is the case it is normally communicated on a notice in the sign-on book at the gate, through a climber Whatsapp group and on the relevant page on theCrag. There are many other wild animals that call Lukenya home, including a resident leopard, snakes, hyenas. In general, these will all stay well out of your way, but be aware at night and avoid confrontations with bigger grazers like giraffes or eland. This is a wild place, so treat it with respect, pack out any rubbish, and bury human waste at least 30 cm underground (bring a spade or trowel!).


Ethic inherited from Lukenya

Lukenya is mostly trad, with some specific sport crags. No bolting is allowed without special permission from the Mountain Club of Kenya - get in touch with them if you think you have spotted a sport route, think there should be an extra bolt on a climb, see some degraded equipment, etc. Avoid cutting down any vegetation beyond a few bush branches - if you think a particular tree poses a real danger to climbers please bring this to the attention of MCK. Don't harass any of the local, sometimes rare wildlife.


Some content has been provided under license from: © Mountain Club of Kenya (Copyright Mountain Club of Kenya)


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Grade Route

Start at foot of gully on right of rib. Climb to first large platform. Follow main rib line until a steep wall is reached, which may be taken on left. Continue up rib. Top section may be taken on left by a chimney or from some 3m to right of nose. An alternate start may be made up the crack splitting the nose of the rib. Break out left after some 2.5m.

Start at left point of foot of slab. Climb to right point of overhang. Continue to scramble up wide face until 3m steep wall is reached. Belay and take this directly, or avoid it by moving left. Continuing, the climb runs out to a grassy gully. An alternate finish is to move left across the gully and take the awkward-looking wall.


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Thu 24 Feb
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